October, Panama City, Panama
Casco Viejo (Old Town) a.k.a. San Felipe or for short Casco is the historic district in Panama City and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only a few years ago the place was just another forgotten slum but is today undergoing a major restoration and well on the way to becoming an upscale community. The ambition of visioners, planers, and developers is to create a top-notch neighborhood with real community feeling that would attract selected businesses, selected schools, and selected tenants/buyers.
Note: There are two Old Towns in Panama City: Casco Viejo and Panamá Viejo. The other one, however, is an uninhabited ‘pile’ of archeological ruins, the remaining rubble of what used to be the old 15th century Panama City.
Architecturally Casco Viejo is not all that different from the way it used to be in the past. Due to its world heritage status, the facades of old buildings and townhouses are protected and cannot be demolished but must stay preserved ‘as is’. It is only interior of the buildings that is being knocked down and replaced with brand new, modern and trendy facilities and design.
As of today the community to be is a mix of historical ruins, facades waiting to be restored to their former glory, already restored buildings, buildings waiting to be restored and a few bad apples. The latter ones are often inhabited by the poorest of the poor of Casco Viejo. Apparently, they may live there not only rent-free but are also provided with free electricity and water. Developers must provide alternative accommodation for them to take possession of the building.
Some of the facades are lit and used as a backdrop for restaurants creating very unique, cozy but also a bit spooky (in a nice way) atmosphere.
As soon as the restoration of a building is accomplished the main developer of Casco Viejo, Dekel Holdings, throws an open house ‘House of Art’ party to which the whole city is invited. I attended one of those parties. Great fun. I thought the idea of these parties was strictly commercial, a way of renting the apartments. Wrong. All three apartments in the building we were partying were already rented. (Two for 3.000 USD a month and one with a roof terrace for 3.500 USD. WOW). The party was simply a way of letting people know of yet another building being refurbished. “Come and take a look what a great job we have done. Come and celebrate with us.“
How is it to actually live in Casco? I ended up living in Casco by chance. Sort of. Would I also live here as a permanent resident of Panama City? Not sure but probably not.
Perhaps one of the most crucial concerns living in this part of the world is security. Casco is safe. I have no problem walking the streets, even at night. Police patrolling the streets on motorcycles, dressed all in black, carrying 1.5 meter long automatic riffles are intimidating enough and very visible. In addition, regular police and tourist police with guns can be spotted on every other corner.
There is no shortage of (overpriced) restaurants, souvenir shops and galleries in the area which attract a fair amount of tourists. Mostly couples or small groups. I am pretty sure it is just a matter of time before the busloads start arriving.
It is not the restaurants or souvenir shops that bring the crowds, especially the younger generation, into the area but rooftops and nightclubs. Locals from all over the city, tourist and expats alike come to Casco to party. All night long. (Keep that in mind while looking for a hotel room, you wouldn’t like to sleep next to the club).
So, if you’re young, hip, love reggaeton music, like to party and have deep pockets or a tourist doing the city for a couple o days Casco is definitely your place. But if you’re here on an assignment for a longer period of time and bit older or raising family perhaps you should consider another part of town.
Casco is shockingly expensive. You’ll be very lucky to find accommodation, which is far below Western standard, for less than 1800 USD a month + utilities. Western quality apartments go for 3000+, see above. Not exactly the rent one associates with third(ish) world countries.
Most of the newly refurbished apartments are not for sale but for rent only. Investors believe they can cash in much better profits in a few years time, which they surely will as the Casco property prices are skyrocketing.
Grocery shopping is a real problem in Casco. With an exception of a couple of hole-in-the-wall, Chinese convenient stores selling for the most part only chips and sodas, there are no other shops where you can buy food or any other supplies for that matter. You need to have a car or take Uber to shop for the necessitiess.
Another major problem Casco residents face is lack of public transport. The nearest metro is a 30-minute walk away and bus stop 20-minute walk. Too long a walk in a muggy heat throughout shady neighborhoods. Definitely, nothing anyone would do after sunset. The only option is Uber. Even though Uber isn’t expensive (2-3 USD for a ride), it adds up pretty quick if you use this service few times a day.
Having a car can also cause problems as there is no parking anywhere on one way, one lane streets of Casco. I saw one garage, I am afraid it is as expensive as a rental apartment.
Note: do not use local yellow taxis unless you’re with a local. They always try to scam you by charging more than what was agreed upon. If you need to take one, Uber does not operate in shady neighborhoods, exit the taxi before you pay. Or even better, give the driver a lot of change. By the time he is done counting you will be safe and sound at home.
Casco is small. Very small. Everybody knows everybody which is kind of nice as it already now creates a very familiar vibe. I don’t think it takes more than 10 minutes to walk from one end to another. It also takes some 10 minutes to walk to Panama City’s Corniche, a lovely waterfront called Cinta Costera, from where a bridge that goes around the Casco in half circle starts. The bridge is super pedestrian friendly with two fenced-in paths, one for walkers and one for bikers, as well as sun beds along the way should you need a rest or just admire the view. There are also quite many policemen on bikes patrolling so it feels pretty safe. The bridge is always breezy and as such an ideal place to cool off during hot muggy days. Bring a picnic and chill under the umbrellas on an ‘observatory platform’ that is placed approx half way down. You can easily walk the bridge. Keep in mind though that ‘the other end’ borders with El Chorillo so make sure you know where you’re going. (‘Run’ some 200 meters on Street 13 to Avenida A, you’ll be good after that.)
It goes without saying but the bridge is also one of the best spots, if not the best, for skyline shooting and night photography.
The problem (my problem) with Casco is, that it is (as in fact most of other residential areas) surrounded by really bad neighborhoods. One of them, El Chorillo, apparently the worst of them all where the gangs carry the weapon openly, starts just a few blocks away. No tourists, nor even locals, would stroll around there without the escort of security guards or police. What makes Casco different from other areas surrounded by shady neighborhoods is that Casco is so small. It gets very closed in.
I love walking and can walk forever, especially while exploring new cities. It cannot be done here. Not l the way. Some places in your path are no-go-zones 24/7. Some places become very dangerous after sunset. Shops close early and once they are closed the area becomes deserted and turns into no-go-zone. To move from one secure part of town to another you need to take an Uber.
Casco is surrounded by shady neighborhoods on one side and by water on the other side. Even ‘the escape route’ to the Corniche gets cut off as the fish market becomes dangerous after dark. All that makes me feel closed in – claustrophobic. I know of some Casco residents that never leave Casco.
So if I were to stay in Panama City for a longer period of time I’d most probably live in San Fransisco, next to Multiplaza Mall. (top right corner on the map). San Fransisco also neighbors bad area but is much. much larger with more room to move around and also offers accommodation in towers (which I like) with lovely views and pools, supermarkets and small ethnic restaurants in abundance as well as plenty of bus stops, … and a Western-style mall.
If you’re raising a family you may like to check house market in one of the gated communities outside of the city
But for younger tourists or young entrepreneurs with a bit of money to waste … Casco is your place.
Casco Viejo in Pictures
