If you ever thought, as I did, that two teeny tiny (in size and population) neighboring Central American countries sharing culture, geography, history, nature, roots, colonization, language and much more, the characteristics that (at least on the paper) appear to be identical or at least very similar… you’d be wrong. So, so wrong. For, as far as I know, there are no two other countries having such potentials of being twin brothers or sisters that differ as much as Panama and Costa Rica.

For many years both countries top the lists of ‘best retirement destinations‘ and are home to large expat communities, primarily from the US and Canada. To compare the two is almost impossible. It all comes down to personal preferences. It all depends on who you are, what type of lifestyle you’re looking for, your economy, how much heat (literally) is too much and even your age.

But if I were to attempt generalization, I’d say Panama may appeal more to the younger generation while Costa Rica to somewhat older not only in age but also in experience (been there, done that).

The Vibe and The People

Panama: The ‘talk of the town’ is that Panama City is becoming a new Miami, and the city loves that talk. Panama is all about business and making money… at the same time, Panama is also about partying and reggaeton (latino reggae). When the music plays the Panamanian dance. Period. If you don’t you must be sick for there is no other excuse.

The predominant ethnic group is Mestizos, European ancestors are in a minority. The economy is stable, plenty of jobs attracting the less privileged from neighboring countries (Colombians, El Salvadorians, Mexicans). Old, run-down neighborhoods (like Casco Viejo) are being refurbished to attract young and hype hipsters with deep pockets. High tempo. Work hard and play hard.

Work, nightlife, party, dance, reggaeton. Latino way. All the way.

Costa Rica: Small town vibe in a democratic setting. Costa Rica is all about Pura Vida (pure life). Lower tempo and chill. Nature, environment, and bio-culture. The greenest country in the world where almost all electricity is generated from green sources. Costa Rica is also the happiest country in the world – according to National Geographic 2017. Well educated, mostly from European ancestry population. No Latino blood vibe as far as I could see but polite and softly spoken locals hiding their temperament and emotions well.  Salsa and romantic Western tunes are their favorite music. And… surprise… surprise, most drivers follow traffic rules. Did you know Costa Rica is lacking its own army?

Maximize joy, minimize stress and live the life to its fullest. Pura Vida.

Public infrastructure and wellbeing

Panama: Filthy and noisy. Rubbish everywhere. Plenty of stray cats. Sidewalks are either missing or are full of potholes, even in front of 5-star hotels.

Not once did I dare to purchase anything from street vendors. Meat and vegetables in local supermarkets look disgusting. For better quality of goods, you need to shop in Western supermarkets. Food, like anything else, is very expensive, more expensive than in Western countries which is quite shocking for the visitors as they do not expect to find developing country to be more expensive than their own. Expats often fly to Miami to shop, especially electronics, as it is more economical than shopping locally even though they need to buy an airline ticket.

Panama is doing its best to drop the third world country label, but as long as they do not clean up their act I cannot see that happening anytime soon. For me, Panama is a presumptive first world country in a third world country infrastructure.

Costa Rica: Nice and clean. No rubbish anywhere.

Fresh, tastefully presented and packaged goods (meat, veg, and fruit) sold in the clean and welcoming hole-in-the-wall family-run corner shops. Supermarkets, even the local ones, are of a good standard. Many biological shops. Was never restrained from purchasing anything due to contamination or poor hygiene scare. Food is more expensive than in Panama but if you shop locally and at farmers markets, you will manage just fine. Great quality, great taste, and much better prices than in supermarkets.

Costa Rica is the most expensive Central American country. With a bit of planning you can still make it on a budget should you choose to do so. (Retirement on a budget)

The Weather

Panama: Tropical – all year around.  Approx 30C. Could be very nice and pleasant but it isn’t due to high humidity. If you add the factor it feels more like 40C or even higher and very muggy. Doesn’t get much better at night. Temperature drops few degrees but not humidity. Hardly any breeze. Rains a lot. When it doesn’t rain it pours. Best places to settle down are by the sea or on higher latitudes where you get more breeze and less humidity. An air con is a must, also at night.

On a positive (and negative) note, even though Panama City is a coastal town there are no beaches in the city – well, there are two (or three?) teeny tiny ones in the Casco but unusable. Neither are there any nice beaches in the proximity of the city. The closest one, Coronado, popular with weekend visitors and expats, is only (?) a two-hour drive away.

Costa Rica: Also tropical. Officially. In reality – total shock – COLD during the winter months. I was not prepared for that. San Jose and other towns in the Central Valley are in various microclimates zones due to surrounding mountains … and I hate them all. Hard, stormy, freezing cold winds go right through you. No need for air con, you will not find any either. Instead, you’d need a warm sweater and socks, so don’t forget to bring them. It can get warm on a sunny and windless day, the nights, however, are always chilly and you’d need a warm blanket/duvet to survive. You may even need two blankets if you live in a house with natural air con.

On a positive note, it only takes an hour drive to warm up as it is all it takes to get to on one of the Costa Rican’s lovely beaches where the temperatures (and humidity) are higher. The Caribbean coast is warmer than the Pacific one, not by much. Summer months are warmer but rainier.

Money Issues

Panama: Panama has (so conveniently) employed USD as an accepted alternative to native Balboa. All prices are in USD. You get paid in USD and you pay in USD. And you also get the change in USD – for the most part.

Occasionally you may get few Balboa coins, however, the exchange rate of Panamanian official currency Balboa is tied to US dollar (1 ISD = 1 Balboa).

In ATMs you withdraw USD. Each withdrawal will cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Costa Rica: In Costa Rica, the official currency is Costa Rican Colón but USD is widely accepted. Most supermarkets, malls, restaurants, and taxis accept USD, however, you get the change in local currency at the exchange rate that is lower than in banks. Hotels and tour operators quote USD but you can pay in either currency.

Coins are huge, heavy and not worth very much. You need a big bag and/or deep pocket to carry them.

In ATMs you withdraw Colons or USD. Each withdrawal will also cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Summa Summarum

So, where do the expats, the retirees fit into that equation?

If you’re a young(ish) entrepreneur with the not too bad economy you may want to give Casco in Panama City a try. But once you retire (or even earlier) you’d be looking for a place on the beach, maybe Coronado or David. You may also want to live in a cooler place in the highlands e.g. Boquete. Or …

You will follow many other expats’ footsteps and move to Costa Rica where most of the retirees end up eventually.

In Costa Rica, the expats/retirees live about everywhere, in the mountains, on the beach and even in the Central Valley. For most, the Pura Vida way of living is simply irresistible.

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It must have been some 20 years ago that I stumbled upon a documentary I cannot forget. Heartbreaking yet eye-opening stories of traumatized Somalian orphans and their struggle for survival after having lost the parents to AIDS epidemics.

What surprised me the most was not only the fact that there was a working program to help those kids but that it was run by a team of highly educated psychologists and social workers. At that time it didn’t even occur to me that social workers and programs/centers of that sort was a possibility in third world African countries. Aha-moment.

20 years fast forward, a different part of the world, different issues, different kids. Different, yet not so different. Many kids of Panama City are in desperate need of help. A greatly successful program is being developed. Dedicated, highly educated volunteers are eager to help. And … I, I still seem to be as ignorant now as I was then. For I, once again, didn’t expect this kind of help to be provided in that kind of place. Aha-moment all over again. 

Meet Dashna, psychologist educated in Spain and a lovely woman in her prime. She could be making big money in a private practice somewhere in an upscale neighborhood but instead chose to dedicate many hours a day to work as dance coordinator. 

– Meet Carlos – homework coordinator.
– Meet Jonathan, Jose, Analida, Louis,  Marlyn, Ilada – all professional dancers. (and there are still more)
– Meet Mayo, a Dutch dance student from Rotterdam who took two months off to volunteer her time and skillset.
– Meet Dekel Group, sponsors of the venue.
– Meet ‘no-name’ volunteers sponsoring talented children.
– Meet all other less known individuals helping in the background with the ENLACES program. 

Meet ENLACES – this is what it is all about 

Enlaces is a preventive program for unprivileged children living in at-risk communities, the neighborhoods of Panama City that are among the poorest of the poor, most violent and most dangerous – a no-go zone.  

Enlaces is designed to empower children, give them a vision and purpose, help them to communicate, teach them to express their feelings & emotions. Through dance. 

The long-term plan is to teach the children how to respect themselves and their bodies with a help of training in contemporary dance. The immediate plan is to also provide a safe haven and after-school activities to children who are for the most part unsupervised and understimulated with nothing to do. 

The center is open four hours a day. After regular school, many kids come here on daily basis to participate in dance classes, do homework, get help with homework, get access to computers and Internet, have lunch. get inspired or get some guidance.

As long as they are in the center they are safe and out of trouble. And they love coming here. The activities are 100% voluntary. They come not because they have to but because they want to. Most of them have their goals for the future already set out. Starting with leaving the slum.

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Casco Viejo (Old Town) a.k.a. San Felipe or for short Casco is the historic district in Panama City and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only a few years ago the place was just another forgotten slum but is today undergoing a major restoration and well on the way to becoming an upscale community. The ambition of visioners, planers, and developers is to create a top-notch neighborhood with real community feeling that would attract selected businesses, selected schools, and selected tenants/buyers.

Note: There are two Old Towns in Panama City: Casco Viejo and Panamá Viejo. The other one, however, is an uninhabited ‘pile’ of archeological ruins, the remaining rubble of what used to be the old 15th century Panama City.

Architecturally Casco Viejo is not all that different from the way it used to be in the past. Due to its world heritage status, the facades of old buildings and townhouses are protected and cannot be demolished but must stay preserved ‘as is’. It is only interior of the buildings that is being knocked down and replaced with brand new, modern and trendy facilities and design.

As of today the community to be is a mix of historical ruins, facades waiting to be restored to their former glory, already restored buildings, buildings waiting to be restored and a few bad apples. The latter ones are often inhabited by the poorest of the poor of Casco Viejo. Apparently, they may live there not only rent-free but are also provided with free electricity and water. Developers must provide alternative accommodation for them to take possession of the building.

Some of the facades are lit and used as a backdrop for restaurants creating very unique, cozy but also a bit spooky (in a nice way) atmosphere.  

As soon as the restoration of a building is accomplished the main developer of Casco Viejo, Dekel Holdings, throws an open house ‘House of Art’ party to which the whole city is invited. I attended one of those parties. Great fun. I thought the idea of these parties was strictly commercial, a way of renting the apartments. Wrong. All three apartments in the building we were partying were already rented. (Two for 3.000 USD a month and one with a roof terrace for 3.500 USD. WOW). The party was simply a way of letting people know of yet another building being refurbished. “Come and take a look what a great job we have done. Come and celebrate with us.“

How is it to actually live in Casco? I ended up living in Casco by chance. Sort of. Would I also live here as a permanent resident of Panama City? Not sure but probably not.

Perhaps one of the most crucial concerns living in this part of the world is security. Casco is safe. I have no problem walking the streets, even at night. Police patrolling the streets on motorcycles, dressed all in black, carrying 1.5 meter long automatic riffles are intimidating enough and very visible. In addition, regular police and tourist police with guns can be spotted on every other corner. 

There is no shortage of (overpriced) restaurants, souvenir shops and galleries in the area which attract a fair amount of tourists. Mostly couples or small groups. I am pretty sure it is just a matter of time before the busloads start arriving.  

It is not the restaurants or souvenir shops that bring the crowds, especially the younger generation, into the area but rooftops and nightclubs. Locals from all over the city, tourist and expats alike come to Casco to party. All night long. (Keep that in mind while looking for a hotel room, you wouldn’t like to sleep next to the club). 

So, if you’re young, hip, love reggaeton music, like to party and have deep pockets or a tourist doing the city for a couple o days Casco is definitely your place. But if you’re here on an assignment for a longer period of time and bit older or raising family perhaps you should consider another part of town.

Casco is shockingly expensive. You’ll be very lucky to find accommodation, which is far below Western standard, for less than 1800 USD a month + utilities.  Western quality apartments go for 3000+, see above. Not exactly the rent one associates with third(ish) world countries. 

Most of the newly refurbished apartments are not for sale but for rent only. Investors believe they can cash in much better profits in a few years time, which they surely will as the Casco property prices are skyrocketing.

Grocery shopping is a real problem in Casco. With an exception of a couple of hole-in-the-wall, Chinese convenient stores selling for the most part only chips and sodas, there are no other shops where you can buy food or any other supplies for that matter. You need to have a car or take Uber to shop for the necessitiess. 

Another major problem Casco residents face is lack of public transport. The nearest metro is a 30-minute walk away and bus stop 20-minute walk. Too long a walk in a muggy heat throughout shady neighborhoods. Definitely, nothing anyone would do after sunset. The only option is Uber. Even though Uber isn’t expensive (2-3 USD for a ride), it adds up pretty quick if you use this service few times a day.  

Having a car can also cause problems as there is no parking anywhere on one way, one lane streets of Casco. I saw one garage, I am afraid it is as expensive as a rental apartment.

Note: do not use local yellow taxis unless you’re with a local. They always try to scam you by charging more than what was agreed upon. If you need to take one, Uber does not operate in shady neighborhoods, exit the taxi before you pay. Or even better, give the driver a lot of change. By the time he is done counting you will be safe and sound at home. 

Casco is small. Very small. Everybody knows everybody which is kind of nice as it already now creates a very familiar vibe. I don’t think it takes more than 10 minutes to walk from one end to another. It also takes some 10 minutes to walk to Panama City’s Corniche, a lovely waterfront called Cinta Costera, from where a bridge that goes around the Casco in half circle starts. The bridge is super pedestrian friendly with two fenced-in paths, one for walkers and one for bikers, as well as sun beds along the way should you need a rest or just admire the view. There are also quite many policemen on bikes patrolling so it feels pretty safe. The bridge is always breezy and as such an ideal place to cool off during hot muggy days. Bring a picnic and chill under the umbrellas on an ‘observatory platform’ that is placed approx half way down. You can easily walk the bridge. Keep in mind though that ‘the other end’ borders with El Chorillo so make sure you know where you’re going. (‘Run’ some 200 meters on Street 13 to Avenida A, you’ll be good after that.)

It goes without saying but the bridge is also one of the best spots, if not the best, for skyline shooting and night photography.

The problem (my problem) with Casco is, that it is (as in fact most of other residential areas) surrounded by really bad neighborhoods. One of them, El Chorillo, apparently the worst of them all where the gangs carry the weapon openly, starts just a few blocks away. No tourists, nor even locals, would stroll around there without the escort of security guards or police. What makes Casco different from other areas surrounded by shady neighborhoods is that Casco is so small. It gets very closed in.  

I love walking and can walk forever, especially while exploring new cities. It cannot be done here. Not l the way. Some places in your path are no-go-zones 24/7. Some places become very dangerous after sunset. Shops close early and once they are closed the area becomes deserted and turns into no-go-zone. To move from one secure part of town to another you need to take an Uber.

Casco is surrounded by shady neighborhoods on one side and by water on the other side. Even ‘the escape route’ to the Corniche gets cut off as the fish market becomes dangerous after dark. All that makes me feel closed in – claustrophobic. I know of some Casco residents that never leave Casco.

So if I were to stay in Panama City for a longer period of time I’d most probably live in San Fransisco, next to Multiplaza Mall. (top right corner on the map). San Fransisco also neighbors bad area but is much. much larger with more room to move around and also offers accommodation in towers (which I like) with lovely views and pools, supermarkets and small ethnic restaurants in abundance as well as plenty of bus stops, … and a Western-style mall. 

If you’re raising a family you may like to check house market in one of the gated communities outside of the city 

But for younger tourists or young entrepreneurs with a bit of money to waste … Casco is your place. 

Casco Viejo in Pictures

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We will probably never know when exactly people began to brunch but the first mention of this culinary tradition was recorded in 1895 and, slowly but surely, the popularity of brunching as one of the top Sunday pastimes has been on the rise ever since.

It must be some 25 years ago that I had heard of Sunday brunch for the first time. But, whether it is due to too much food (cannot eat that much so early in the day) or to too early drinking (prefer my glass of red later in the day) the idea of brunching has never struck a chord with me. So going to brunch on my very first Sunday in Panama City was quite extraordinary. But this is exactly what I did. (As my landlady offered to introduce me to her friends and you simply cannot know too many people when you first arrive at a new location.)

Panamanian brunches are not comparable with the (in)famous brunches in Dubai. Forget extravagant buffets or free-flowing champagne and enjoy a sim sum brunch in one of the Chinese restaurants instead or off menu meal and drink in some other establishment.

I went for a classic brunch meal ‘in some other establishment‘ consisting of a compulsory mimosa (champagne and orange juice) and eggs Benedict with a sublime Panamanian twist to them, that is, spiced up with the just right amount (lagom) of horseradish. The dish was absolutely divine.

Talking about the divine. I stand corrected.  I have to admit I was wrong. There is some great food in Panama City after all. In fact, there is some amazingly delicious food in Panama City. And all that great dining is right at my doorstep, in the Old Town  – Casco Viejo. So, if you like a top-notch culinary experience (followed by some serious clubbing should you choose to do so) and have deep pockets (*) you know now where to go to satisfy your palate and other senses for … surprise, surprise … fine dining in Casco Viejo is not only heavenly delicious but most dishes are also sculptured into visual masterpieces.

In my search for delicious, preferably local and pocket-friendly dining I visited a top-ranked and one of the most popular restaurants in the city – Restaurante El Trapiche where I, full of anticipation, ordered a popular local dish recommended by the waiter. (Can’t remember the name).  But instead of expected culinary sensation, I got this mess (pic to the right) – an underseasoned, overcooked, boring, cold mush looking and tasting just like baby food. I left most of it untouched.

Hungry, frustrated and in need of some comfort food I ended up in a place where I would normally never dine – a food court. Satisfied at last.  What did I have? Chinese Wok. Go figure.

{*) Note: Dining prices in Casco Viejo are similar to American prices, fine dining is cheaper. The root of my never-ending complaints about the prices is the false information regarding Panama being indexed as one of the cheapest countries in the world to live in.

Casco Viejo in Panama City

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Oh no, I don’t mean it that way. I mean it literally.

The journey was much longer – it took me almost 2 years to get there,  and somewhat crooked – it went via Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Malaysia, Brunei, Malaysia, the Philippines, Bali, Dubai, Sweden, Norway, Sweden, Czech Republic, Dubai, Portugal, Poland, USA, Canada, but I am here at last. I have finally arrived in the country of two oceans; Central and South America’s financial hub; last year’s number one country to retire in; this year’s number two country to retire in (according to Forbes), happiest country in the world and above all my (long awaited ) future home – my possible retirement paradise on Earth – Panama.

First stop – Panama City. And? My first impressions? So far so good?

The trip: a red flight from Portland, OR to Panama City, very tired, not a wink, sulky.grumpy and hungry – Air Canada in a nutshell. My virgin flight or rather flights with Air Canada turned out to be anything … but.  Tiny and most uncomfortable seats, unpleasant staff and no food. Yes, no food on a long haul flight. And no prior info about it either. I was more comfortable and much better served on low price third world countries’ Asian flights. Still, my spirits very pretty high – considering. But it was the pilot, however, that ‘made my trip’.    

Note new law: Swedish passport holders (and most probably many others) require Electronic Travel Authorization (eTA – equivalent to American ESTA) to travel to Canada. Get one at http://www.cic.gc.ca/english/visit/eta-start.asp before you travel to make sure you won’t miss your flight trying to get it during check-in. It only takes few minutes and costs 7 CAD.

Getting into the city: A 20-minute ride from the airport to the old town for a whopping 30 USD but on a good, alley like road, leading through not too shabby looking (all but one – from a distance) hoods went very smooth and uneventful. The 30-minute ride that followed due to unexpected search of my booked accommodation through narrow, one-way streets of the old town, in violation of all possible traffic laws in the process incl driving against the traffic wasn’t quite planned but interesting nonetheless. A taste of Panama?

Note: Do not believe everything you read. There are only two ways to get into town from the airport (three incl your own ride). Either by a 30 USD taxi or a local bus that you can catch some distance away.

Weather: Yes, it is humid. Very humid. So you better get keratin treatment before you arrive or else just accept your new frizzy and curly natural look. (which quite frankly isn’t all that bad). The temperatures of between 25-30 C could have been very pleasant if not for the humidity. On a positive note, the humidity in Panama City is ‘nothing’ compared to the Malaysian one and therefore, I believe, I should be able to get used to it … if I would only give it a bit of time.

And the rain? Yes, it rains. Every day. And every night. And if it doesn’t rain – it pours. The tail end of Hurricane Irma ‘they say’.

The city: It was the documentary Route of two Oceans that put Panama on my travel radar. So fascinating, so exciting, such a perfect place to visit and live in. I was ready to drop everything and move right then and there, on the spot.  It was love at first sight. But, as often with love – wrong timing. 

I couldn’t go to Panama, or anywhere else for that matter, not then. The urge of meeting the Lunch Lady and having a taste of her famous soup was much stronger. The problem was she was serving her lunches in an entirely different corner of the world.  Consequently, to go West I had to go East first. So I went East but was on my way to Panama ever since. 

I saw the documentary for the second time about a month ago and couldn’t quite figure out what it was that attracted me to Panama in the first place.  It definitely wasn’t the same documentary I saw two years ago. Or the place. Or the country. Hmmm. However, I wasn’t concerned. Not too much anyway. Everybody who visited Panama was telling me ‘you’re gonna love it‘. And I wanted to believe ‘I will love it‘. After all, I also saw tons of fantastic pictures of Panama City to second the love was in the air. But … 

The city isn’t so picture perfect as many of the postcards and photographs suggest. Even the ‘pretty part’ requires the perfect lighting and angles to make it look pretty. In short, Panama City is not all that I envisioned.  Not all that and some more, the streets behind the pretty facades are hardly walkable. In fact, with an exception of the promenade along the ocean, the city is not really walkable due to the filthy, badly paved (if any) side walks, full of holes and paddles. And then, there are the cats. Hundreds (or more) of them.

What surprised me the most is lack of tourists, at least the Western ones. On the other hand, there is no shortage of police. The police are everywhere, in groups of 5 or more. I am told at least few times a day not to go here or there as it is too dangerous. And I must admit there were times when I felt very uncomfortable entering certain areas even in the middle of the day. (I am nonetheless ready to visit the slums. I found a partner in crime. Perhaps being two will decrease the (eventual) danger.)

Food: I love ethnic food and am not afraid to taste exotic flavors. Sadly I found nothing of interest so far. Not one thing. But I’ll keep looking. On a positive note – the tap water is drinkable.

Prices: A bit of a shock. Not as cheap as I was made to believe by various retirement destinations sites. In fact very expensive especially for a third world country. 1600 USD for a two bedroom apartment plus utilities, 7+ USD for a glass of wine or 10+ USD for a cheap meal is not any different from prices in Portland, OR. Even the prices in super markets aren’t all that different from American prices and apparently higher than in Holland. Panama is not cheap at all. (Costa Rica is apparently still more expensive). Very disappointing. 

So what about those vultures? They are just city birds. Just like city rats, city foxes, city raccoons or other wild animals that migrated into towns all over Europe and America. It feels a bit uncomfortable and spooky to watch them (majestically) flying all over town looking for prey (cadaver? dead bodies? better not let the imagination go wild).  Locals don’t seem to like them either. Windows, balconies, terraces are all protected by fake owls in the hope they would scare the vultures away. The vultures, unfortunately, don’t seem to care. 

All in all?: No matter how big/small the ‘cover up‘ is or how many pretty pictures of Panama City you see, Panama is still very much a third world country which is (I hope) more visible in a city of 1 million than in a beach resort. I have already begun the countdown of my Panama City retreat for the beaches and islands which, after all, were supposed to be my final destination. So, so far (not) so very good. The better times ahead. 

tbc

Blogs Directory

Some pretty Panama City pictures (after all I am a photographer)

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