Cancun - the all inclusive vacation factory : One way ticket to Paradise

“As soon as you arrive at Cancun… LEAVE“. What? Leave the famous Cancun as soon as I arrive? This “one and only” dream destination and one of the world’s most hyped and hot vacation spots? Yes… leave… he insisted. “Go to Isla Mujeres instead“. This is the advice I got from a friend who knew Cancun inside out. And even though I didn’t leave right away, I must confess – he was right.

Cancun is one of the weirdest vacation projects (?) I have ever visited. To me, it is nothing more than a weekend getaway. Beyond that? A vacation factory.

Just look at the map to the right. Looks great, doesn’t it? Long, about 15 mile-long, sandbar connected to the mainland by causeways on either end and separated from the city by a lagoon – the Nichupte Lagoon. How appealing. What a perfect location. The promise of a perfect scenery. Pristine beaches? Crystal clear water? Sunsets? Paradise?

Hmmm. Neither. None of the above. Not even sunsets. (They are on the other side). On the beachfront strip along the Caribbean Sea, there are tons of high-rise all-inclusive hotels lined up. On the lagoon side, there are some four-five outdoor malls every few kilometers and pretty much nothing between them. This 20 kilometers long and a two-four hundred meters wide sandbar (which btw is a part of the world’s second-longest coral reef) called Zona Hotelera is what Cancun is all about.

Today, Cancun is all about Zona Hotelera.

Zona Hotelera

Just one road runs along Zona Hotelera, Kukulkan Boulevard. However, even though the sandbar is very narrow, and the road runs between the sea and the lagoon the ride isn’t as scenic as it could have been. Unfortunately, the sea (and most of the hotels) is hidden behind the trees thus not visible from the road. The views aren’t all that great on the lagoon side either.

Trees, trees, and more trees – although not as many as on the seaside.

I walked many kilometers on that road and there is absolutely nothing to do/see in between the malls. Well, with an exception of crocodiles. The Nichupte Lagoon is their natural habitat. Thus, if you are unlucky (or lucky) you may run into some of them during your stroll. There are many warning signs along the road alerting of danger. So watch out as the road is not fenced off. The crocodiles may be lurking only a few centimeters away as in some parts there is no vegetation separating the road from the lagoon. If you like to take a closer look at the crocodiles in a more secure environment you can do so by Plaza La Fiesta Mall where the fence keeps the reptiles at bay.

The Beach

Playa Tortugas

An uninterrupted sandy (though not pristine) beach runs along the entire sandbar and beyond. I don’t know how many hotels are located on that narrow piece of land but they come one after another – most of them are all-inclusive. As the hotels are all-inclusive, there are NO bars or restaurants on the beach itself. Not even a tiny little kiosk where one can buy a bottle of water. Nothing. Nada. This alone is for me a deal breaker. In my retirement paradise or even during a beach vacation, I like to have my refreshments and meals right on the beach listening to the sound of the waves. The last thing I want is being stranded in a hotel 100 meters away separated from the beach and the sea by a concrete wall.

The only beach bar in Cancun?

Well, (truth be told) there are two places I found:

There is this tiny public beach very popular with locals, Playa Tortugas, which is one long table. I didn’t like that place. Small, overpriced and very crowded.
There is this tiny little bar right next to Hard Rock Cafe, which I liked very much but it closes at 7 p.m.

Note: Hard Rock Cafe has some tables on the beach.

I walked the beach (part of it) a couple of times and found four major drawbacks (at least for me):

Blue Flag beach entrance/exit

As mentioned before, lack of bars/restaurants. Hence, the beach is not really a place where people socialize and hang out. The hotels and the outdoor hotel bars are.
The beach is not easily accessible: the beach is public, however, the chain of hotels along it makes the access rather difficult… if you are not a hotel guest. There are some five-six public beaches with public entrances, so-called Blue Flags, but you must know where they are. (Or tell a bus driver to stop by one of them. e.g Delfin Beach)
The first beach, Playa Las Perlas, facing the bay could be walkable but is not due to the mangrove full of mosquitoes

The beach is not easily walkable: such a lovely, long sandy beach yet walking it is rather difficult as it faces the open and rough sea. You need to walk on the sand as walking in the water, no matter how shallow, can be somewhat hazardous especially when you carry a camera with you.

Also, before you start waking, make sure there is an exit somewhere not too far as you may end up walking much further than you have bargained for. You may not exit/enter through hotels.
Not only is the sea rough, it is also cold. Not many people swim in it. Hotel pools seem to be a better choice. What a shame.

There was one thing I absolutely loved and that was the color of the Caribbean Sea. Countless shades of blue. Really amazing.

Downtown

Dance in the park

Ever since the hotels in Zona Hotelera became all-inclusive the once vibrant downtown of Cancun, full of small restaurants and shops, is on a decline. Tourist infrastructure, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife are today all concentrated on the sandbar. Tourists no longer visit downtown but stay in hotels to drink, eat and party. In short, to get their money’s worth. The town is almost empty of visitors. The few that come, come to parks to “people watch”.

There are few parks frequented by locals that are quite interesting to visit to get a glimpse of “how the locals live”. By law, every neighborhood must have its own park. The parks are a social hub for locals offering many activities for both children and adults.

Other than that? Same, same, wherever you look. The downtown seems to have been stripped off of its soul. Quite forgettable. Really.

Summa Summarum

I am glad I didn’t leave Cancun right away but instead stayed for a good few weeks. Mind you, I stayed not for the sea or beaches but for a home base that I happened to find downtown that worked for me… for a while. However, as I don’t mind spending some time downtown or even partying for a couple of days at the Zona Hotelera, Cancun is definitely not a retirement paradise I am looking for.