Three times lucky? The best for last? What are the odds? Next to zero, still, it could happen. But it didn’t.

There are not many places in the world that can top Luang Prabang / Vang Vieng duo and Vientiane is not one of them. Don’t get me wrong. The capital of Laos is a lovely town but no match for the two pearls couple of hundred kilometers higher upstream. To give Vientiane a fair chance it deserves you should visit it first. Iow, you should start your Laotian adventure in Vientiane and travel upstream.

Vientiane, like many other Asian towns I visited, lies on the banks of the Mekong. Typically there is a wide promenade with hotels, restaurants, vendors, benches along the river.  Vientiane is not any different.   A wide promenade with parks, playgrounds for kids, night market, food stalls that run along the river looks very inviting for night strolls. The problem is there is no river,  or rather the river is hardly visible, and not visible at all at night,  as a 500-meter wide field of nothing separates it from the promenade and town. To get closer to the river you need to walk a couple of kilometers out of town. I found it to be most frustrating, so I dropped the idea of promenade strolls and turned my interest towards the town itself instead.

The town feels and is small. Rather provincial. At the same time, it feels/is very laid back and charming.  There is no shortage of lovely looking small streets and alleys full of flowers, cozy restaurants, and cafes serving good local and Western food. Nightlife, however, is low key. Nothing much to do. Nothing much to see. A perfect place to chill. And chill I did.

Most of my time I spend by the hotel pool socializing with other guests. After three days of chilling, I left Vientiane and Laos and flew to Penang in Malaysia. to chill some more. Was the plan. 

Some ‘chilling’ images

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Somewhere in the jungle, beyond  7 hills and 7 rivers lies Vang Vieng

There are places and there are places. And then there are … places. I will never know how come I’d never heard of Vang Vieng but I hadn’t. Perhaps I don’t quite fit the age group that typically visits this place or perhaps a ‘good girl‘ like myself doesn’t do things like ‘that‘. Who knows.

Have you ever heard of tubing? Neither had I, Until recently that is – the age group again, I guess.

Have you ever heard of river jumping? Well, I remember reading something about canal jumping in Holland ages ago. But river rope jumping? In Asia? In Laos? In Vang Vieng? Never.

How about party river? Not that either? A rather new concept to me too. Especially in Asia. People in Asia live on and off rivers. For millions and millions of people, the rivers are their only means of survival. The rivers house them, feed them, keep them (hmm) clean, transport them. The river is life itself. So who in their ‘right mind‘ would turn the source of life into a party playground? In Vang Vieng, they did just that. And …  made a living out of it in the process.

I must be of a stone age for all of my ‘boat people’ (my co-travelers the downstream Mekong) not only knew all about that gem hidden in the jungle but were also on the route there. And what did I do? I followed the pack. So glad I did for Vang Vieng is one of the most unique places I ever visited and the world’s most unlikely party town. There is no other place like Laotian Vang Vieng. And btw there is no other place like Laos. (Laos together with Myanmar are the most fascinating places).

It took a minibus four hours to get from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng. Mostly, the road went through the mountains and was bad. I imagine the road must be a sliding nightmare during rainy season as it was also steep and slippery due to the small marble like stones rolling off the mountains.

The weather was good, no rain, yet it felt like we were bombarded by hailstones. And yes, we were. But it wasn’t the icy type hitting the van from above but the stony one hitting us from below. The driver was speeding so fast that the van was showered with stones cracking the windows and damaging an almost new van.  We tried to slow him down but he wouldn’t listen. He didn’t care. Or maybe he was just trying to give us an introduction to what was waiting ahead.  

Vang Vieng is Mecca for adrenaline junkies and party lovers. Vang Vieng is also the place where most Westerners lose their lives while vacationing. A couple of years ago twenty-four tourists never made it back home. Ever since the town is trying to clean up their act by imposing various restrictions on most dangerous activities.

So what is tubing? It is a bar hopping. On the river.

Along the river incl few islands, there are many stations (bars) set up.  The thrill/challenge is to ‘raft’ the river in a tire tube stopping by as many stations as only possible to refuel, that is drink unlimited pints of beer or other alcoholic beverages. The price is fixed and includes a tube, unlimited drinks, and transport upstream to the starting point.  

You start at the top and go down the stream stopping at some or all stations on the way. Up to you. You stay as long/short as you like depending on the company you meet.  Fun people require longer encounter, not so fun people and you head to the next station. If you cannot make it to the station due to strong currents or alcohol consumption or whatever else it is the station owner’s duty to fish you out and pull you in for another refill. Some bars, primarily the ones on the islands and the ones that were too hazardous to get to are shut down today in compliance with the cleanup operation. By 6 p.m. everyone needs to be back in town to return the tube in time and avoid penalties … and the party continues. On or in the river. 

Nam Song river is not the Mekong, at least not in Vang Vieng. Maybe 50 meters wide (if even that) and shallow. You can easily wade from one bank to another. Or you can cross over on a bamboo bridge. On one side of the river, there are (mostly) hotels lined up and on the other bank there are party river ‘booths’ where you eat, drink and socialize. In short, party. The bars are open as long as there are customers.  You can order food or bring your own. The latter is popular with locals – cheaper, I guess. They come, the whole pack, from Vientiane (capital town) and party during weekends sleeping in their cars which their park right in the river.

I spend almost every evening in one of those booths and found them … absolutely wonderful. The most fantastic, relaxing, ageless and laid back form of socializing. I’d recommend it anytime to anyone.

So now that you have heard of Vang Vieng come and visit. You may be surprised. You may have the best time of your life … keep a watchful eye on your adrenaline seeking kids though.

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In the junction of two rivers, the Mekong and Nam Khan, against a scenic mountain backdrop, right beneath mount Phou si (150 meters high steep hill) lies one of the most charming places in the world – Luang Prabang. Never, in a million years, had I expected to find this pearl … in Laos. Or Asia for that matter. But there it was – a UNESCO World Heritage Center and a multiple Wanderlust’s annual award winner in Top City category, a gem I had never heard of before.

Coming to Luang Prabang was like coming home. No doubt I ‘had been’ there before, or so it felt. French Alpine Maritime village? Could have easily been. Built by European colonialists, European way in 19th and 20th century Luang Prabang is a remarkably well-preserved fusion of traditional and colonial architecture. 

Not only had I been there before but I actually knew ‘everybody‘ there. Wherever I went I bumped into familiar faces. Hello here and hello there. Chat here and there. How have you been? Exchange information. A drink together. Dinner. There was always someone I knew wherever I went.  It wasn’t just the feeling – I really did know them. They were my downstream Mekong co-travelers – and now familiar faces and friends  – and why not – after all we all sat in the same boat. 

Tidy, clean, picturesque streets, flower decorations, lovely guest houses, romantic alleys where some of the most romantic restaurants were hidden was so un-Asian experience I kept forgetting I actually was in Asia. The alleys of Luang Prabang were walkable, manicured oasis – a far cry from the rat-infested poorly lit and scary back alleys of other Asian cities and towns.

Many of the guest houses were originally 5-10 room colonial villas turned into hotels as was my hotel. I loved my hotel, and I loved my room. The room was on a small side but I didn’t care. I loved the house. I loved the interior. I enjoyed it so much that I extended my stay by 4 or 5 days. Corner room right on the river, not more than 100 easily walkable and paved meters from the pier. Yes, I chose it carefully – with my 20 kg suitcase in mind. Little that I knew …

Boat disembarking. The guy in the picture is my savior and hero. He carried my suitcase all the way up

Some smart greedy aXXXX moved the slow boat up/downstream traffic to another ‘pier’ in the middle of absolutely nowhere some 7 km away so that tuk-tuk mafia could extort extra money from tourists for a ride into town.

There went my smart hotel planning. I had to say bye-bye to the luxury of a short distance walk on a paved sidewalk and face the nightmare of disembarking the boat on a makeshift jetty and then making it alive and in one piece to town. In another words: wading from the boat, climbing 100 meters right up slippery, muddy hill with all the luggage as mysteriously there were no porters ‘eager’ to help and then interacting with tuk-tuk mafia that only saw dollar signs once you approached them to purchase a fixed price tuk-tuk ticket and did the best they only could to cheat you out of your change.

Accidents while climbing that hill are not uncommon. Few people broke their body parts falling backward, pulled by the gravity of heavy backpacks.  

(And btw, this is happening everywhere in Asia; piers, bus stations are being relocated long long out of town forcing tourists to overpriced taxi or tuk-tuk rides. E,g, my Yangon – Mandalay bus ticket was USD 7 but taxi to bus station was USD 10)

Night market

Like many other small Asian towns, Luang Prabang comes to life first in the evening. Nothing much happens during the day. Only a few tourists wandering around. When the night falls the town comes to life. Night market opens and restaurants along the banks of the Mekong fill up as do the local bars and pubs. 

A word of advice. Be careful with local vodka, called vadka, and whiskey served during happy hour (and beyond). They are cheaper than water and the quality is thereof. (Probably homemade)

Backpacker’s paradise

What you could and by all means should try is food served at buffet-type-stalls. For a pocket change you get a plate which you can fill up to the brim with local delicacies. Plenty of food for little money. It goes without saying these places are very popular with backpackers

Stairs to the monastery and sun set

Before dinner ‘the whole town’ takes a hundred (or was it two hundred?) step stroll up mount Phou si. Not to say hello to the monks that live in a monastery on the top but to watch the sunset. Every night the place is jam-packed with sunset lovers…  

Luang Prabang is a must stop while visiting Laos. But it is still not all the town has to offer. There is more. Much, much more. Its major attractions are not in the town itself but outside. Multi-tier waterfalls. I visited the largest of them Kwang Si Waterfall & Bear Rescue Center about 30 km out of town. If there is a paradise somewhere on Earth, this is it. 

Kwang Si Waterfall & Bear Rescue Center

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No matter how accurate someone’s travel account is it is still up to a reader to determine how ‘accurate’ it really is. Just like reading a book. Give the same book to 100 readers and you’ll have 100 different interpretations. The power of the written word – and imagination.

I read few detailed descriptions of how the land crossing process works … 

“First take a tuk-tuk, then walk a bit, then take a bus, then walk some more, then get the visa, then walk still more, take another tuk-tuk“

… and thought there were tad too many different stages in that process and too many walks.

It was all those walks that got me worried. How far? How long? Paved road? Dirt road? Uphill? Downhill? Any steps? Curbs? My imagination went wild. They all must amount to at least few hundred meters, perhaps even more. Right?

As much as I hate to admit it and as much as I try to avoid it I do plan around my 20 kg suitcase – it was 30 originally. This is my brutal reality.

Travel light is not good enough. Travel lighter. Do not plan for fine dining or anything else. Concentrate on a MAXIMUM 7 kilos. Only. If your stuff (including camera gear) won’t fit in a carry on bag/backpack or weighs over 7 kg then don’t pack it. You already have too much. Anything more than that and you can say goodbye to freedom of movement, the joy of travel, taking that extra ‘mile’ to satisfy your curiosity what’s around the corner and peace of mind. You won’t be able to do what you want to but what you have to. And you must babysit your luggage.

Afraid of exposing myself to too much ‘walking with a suitcase’ I changed my original DIY-plan and bought a VIP package trip instead. Transport all the way. From hotel pickup to boat drop off. The difference between the two, organized package vs DIY, was marginal. I didn’t miss much other than DIY-feeling/satisfaction (which could be plenty). And there was no walking involved, either way. Everything was super smooth and super efficient. Too super perfect. Nothing romantic nor adventurous. Not even exploratory. Just a plain walk in the park.

1. 

   You cannot walk across the friendship bridge but take this bus instead

   
   Tuk tuk picked me up at my hotel and drove me to the new friendship bridge 5 km away – DIY-folks had to haggle their own ride
2. All tuk tuks stopped on the Thai side of the bridge right next to awaiting buses that were to take us all (VIPs and DIYs) over the bridge. Luggage was loaded onto the bus.
3. After we got stamped out off Thailand we boarded the bus and went on a 2-3 minute ride over the bridge. DIYs had to purchase a ticket. Ours was in the package.
4. The bus stopped on the other side of the bridge right in front of a brand new, very spacy Laotian immigration office. No to/from walking. Perfect shiny flooring to drag luggage.
5. The package tour representative showed up (VIPs wore a sticker to be easily spotted) to assist us if need be
6. 

   Laos Immigration, Filling in visa forms.

   
   We all needed a visa. After having filled in a small form a Visa on Arrival good for 30 days was issued and stamped in our passports. The whole procedure took only a few minutes. Note: you need to pay in cash for the visa, preferably in US dollars (40 if I remember correctly). If you don’t have cash on you there are two brand new ATMs in the immigration hall.
7. Once we were through immigration a tuk tuk that was waiting for us took us to the jetty. DIYs had to haggle once again.
8. On the way to jetty we stopped at organizer’s office and were treated to lunch (sandwich and soft drink). Nice touch.
9. Upon arrival at jetty – first problem. BIG PROBLEM. Potentially. Tuk tuks wouldn’t go all the way down to the boats but stopped at the top of a giant hill some 100-200 meters away. From there on all luggage had to be carried down (or up) and if need be, depending on which boat in line you were boarding, even dragged through several boats that were clustered together. At this point, I was so glad I was going downstream as up-streamers would need to fight that hill up. (hmmm little that I knew what was coming). As for my luggage – tuk tuk driver carried it down. 

Once settled in we did some calculations and surprisingly it turned out that VIP trip was a bit cheaper than DIY one.

No seat left. The boat was full of both backpackers and locals. Originally I was planning to take another somewhat luxurious trip. Same boat (they are all the same) but fewer people, max 12, launch chairs, gourmet lunch, cocktails, lovely accommodation for the night, different way of socializing, iow entirely different experience but due to low season the boat I was planning to cruise with was only cruising once a week and I didn’t have enough patience to wait. In addition, it wasn’t 100% sure the boat would depart at all as its departure depended on the number of passengers. Not enough people no deal.

Guess my suitcase is not that bad. Imagine having to carry this heavy looking table. Not only from/to the boat but also up/down the hill. We were all watching breathlessly.

Which trip to take? My guess is as good as yours. We are talking here about two entirely different experiences. Cruise or means of transportation that gives a glimpse of local life.

These boats are the quickest means of transportation and most times the only means of transportation. Our boat stopped few times to let locals and their ‘cargo’ on/off.

After almost an hour delay we left. The anticipation of what’s ahead was high. As were the expectations of a one in a lifetime adventure. After all, this was the one and only unforgettable trip for my Australian friends and I was hoping for the same (they took the luxury trip though).

The scenery was exotic and very peaceful. At first. The mighty Mekong flows through most of Asia. The river is impressive. It never ends. Many a time it looks more like a sea than a river. On its Laotian leg, the river is carving the way through forested foothills. All the way from the border to Luang Prabang and most probably pass that too the scenery doesn’t change. After a couple of hours, I found it somewhat monotonous and boring. I was no longer on an adventure but on a means of transportation. The hard bench I sat on, amongst legs, legs, and legs, wasn’t much of a comfort either. I stopped looking outside (not that I could as I had the window behind me) and concentrated more on what was going on inside.

If you like to enjoy the views and appreciate the total experience to the fullest, the luxury trip would have been more to your liking (and mine). It is so much easier to find and concentrate on inner peace from the comfort of a soft launch chair sipping on a refreshing cocktail in a company of 12 travelers as opposed to a mountain of feet, crying kids and scattered luggage. But the backpackers had fun.

Laotian village along Mekong river

It appears people in Laos don’t live off the river the same way as they do in Vietnam. (Is it why the river is so clean?)  Nowhere along the river had I seen any villages on the water or even nearby. All riverside villages were uphill, most of them not even visible from down below. Each time the boat stopped to let someone on/off I was surprised ‘why stop in the middle of nowhere‘ but then, after a long search, there it was – a hidden village right on the top. It goes without saying that all luggage, merchandise, tables, anything at all had to be carried up/down the very steep and often sandy or muddy hill.

After 4 or 5 hours the first leg of our downstream trip was over. We came to Ban Pakbeng, a small village in the middle of nowhere and our bed for the night. All the luggage had to be unloaded and carried uphill to respective hotels to be once again carried down next morning. I was smart to book a room in a hotel nearest the jetty, some 100 – 150 meters away. Still, a long way if you have to push 20 kg suitcase uphill.

It is pretty obvious that even slow boat could easily make it to Luang Prabang in one day. Spending a night in Ban Pakbeng was, from my very own selfish perspective, a total waste of time. There is absolutely nothing there. Some five basic hotels, a couple of bad restaurants and a ‘nightclub’. That’s all there is in the village. The village lives off overnight tourists. A way of survival, I guess for there is no other work.

To kill the time we (bit older ones and parents with kids, although a couple of backpackers also joined us) went to a bad and overpriced Indian restaurant across the road, had something to eat, a couple of beers, socialized a bit and then called it quits, that is went to bed. There was nothing else to do.  It was also very dark so even taking a walk wasn’t an option.

Backpackers, on the other hand, went to the nightclub. And why not. 

The boat leaves early in the morning but the village wakes up even earlier to get breakfast ready for all the travelers. Walking through the very misty village first thing in the morning, smelling the aroma of freshly baked bread, bumping into ‘everybody‘ shopping for breakfast (and lunch), chatting here and there was, in fact, the nicest and most enjoyable moment of the stay. It felt like a local market at home.

And once again our departure was delayed by an hour or more. This time it was few backpackers that couldn’t wake up in time.

The second leg of the trip was pretty much the same as the first one. Same view, same experience, same everything. Well, we got a table-sitting on the boat so the trip was more comfortable and enjoyable. Other than that? Same, same.

Summa summarum By any stretch of the imagination I cannot even imply the trip was a disappointment. It was not. Not in the least. But it was a lot different from what I expected. I thought I’ll be in for more spiritual experience rather than a snapshot of real life. 

p.s. travel light – currently I leave my suitcase at the hotel and do the island hopping with a backpack only – what a freedom

People

Downstream Mekong 

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Bangkok Airline, one of the airlines operating Yangon – Chiang Mai route

One highlight in traveler’s everyday life is meeting other travelers and exchange information, experiences, stories, gossip and above all socialize with kindred souls. On one such occasion, I met an Australian couple – world travelers who have been ‘everywhere‘ and have seen ‘everything‘. Their best travel experience and the one they cannot forget was a two day one night trip downstream Laotian Mekong to Luang Parang. The second I heard their story all I wanted was – me too, me too I want too.

Laos was my next destination anyhow. Influenced by other travelers’ stories I had already decided not only to cross the border overland but also do it on foot as the experience of pushing my pink suitcase across a (friendly) bridge between the two countries was too irresistible. How romantic is that on a scale? Full pot. What I didn’t figure out yet was whether I’ll be entering the country from the South or North nor did I know which bridge I’ll be crossing. The Australian couple advised me to take a slow boat downstream to Luang Parang via Chiang Khong crossing. I followed their advice.  Eventually.

Do you know Bangkok Airline is first? boutique airline?

Sunrise at Yangon airport

I should and perhaps would have taken this way if not for … Chang Mai. I wanted to follow my Australian friends’ footsteps in detail and head for the border from the Northern capital of Thailand – Chang Mai. So, instead of making it easy for myself I chose more complicated and time-consuming alternative instead – a night bus (my first ever) to Yangon and then a flight from there to Chiang Mai. Long, tiring trip I don’t plan on repeating.

Chiang Mai

My hotel pickup. Not only they misspelled my name but also called me Mr. (so I deliberately ‘shamed’ him)

(Thailand wasn’t even on my original itinerary yet it is the second time I end up in Thailand during my SEA tour. Thailand is a very convenient place to travel from/to most destinations.)

After months of filth, disgust, sidewalks full of deadly potholes, rats, stray dogs Chiang Mai was like a breath of fresh air. Clean, paved, full of charming even picturesque bars and small romantic restaurants, art galleries, and classy designer boutiques selling clothes that one could actually buy and wear.

Pool in Duangtawan Hotel, my home away from home

What differs Chiang Mai from any other city I visited is that the town appears to be sleeping during the day and live at night. Most bars and restaurants are closed during the day. Only a few places and some boutiques are open – as are million 7-11s and pharmacies. Streets are almost deserted. Even tourists are nowhere to be seen, presumably ‘hiding’ in hotel pools.

At about 4 p.m. the town wakes up and daily activities begin; stalls are being raised, street vendors are showing up in the streets and people fill up 7-11s queuing up for their morning coffee. The town is waking up and getting ready to welcome a new day. By 5 p.m. streets fill up with people and vendors. By 6 p.m. the commerce is in full swing. The night market opens, and the town is ready for business.

One of many lovely shops

The market offers local craft and art side by side with food and fake Havaianas (of superb quality) and everything else in between. The commerce must do pretty well … considering hundreds upon hundreds ATMs in the area. Four or more clustered together every few meters. I have never ever seen that many ATMs in one place.

Chiang Mai has become an attractive place for expats and tourists alike. Quite many expats have made Chiang Mai their permanent home. Also, most tourists are .. tourists … not as many old solo men looking for whatever they cannot find at home as in other places but families with young children and couples of all ages. 

Chiang Khong

The bus ride from Chiang Mai to the border town of Chiang Khong took four hours.  Almost all tourists that come to town are on their way to/from Laos. It used to be a great meeting hub for backpackers and other travelers. Not that many stops today. The majority don’t even drive through but head directly towards the bridge that is a few kilometers from the town.

My home away from home. Laos on the other side of the river

The town is slowly dying. What a pity. For Chiang Khong is one of a kind. So unique.  

There is something special about this place. Cannot put my finger on what it is but whatever it is it made me feel good.

If you ever want to take a break from the world, get ‘lost’ for a while and let no one find you or take refuge come to Chiang Khong and look for whatever you’re missing or looking for.

I stayed 3 days in the village and could easily have stayed a few more. But I also felt the time had come to cross that bridge. 

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