Ever since I can only remember (couldn’t have been more than 5) Bali was an ultimate destination not only for me but also for almost everyone else I knew. An exotic paradise ‘beyond the horizon’ everyone was dreaming about but only very few were lucky enough to actually have a chance to visit. In my imaginative mind, there was no better place in the world. That was IT. Once you’ve arrived in Bali you never left. There was nowhere else to go. There was no need to go anywhere else as no place in the world could ever match Bali. The never-ending sandy beaches, warm crystal clear waters, cooling breeze, super chill. Ultimate happiness. Paradise on Earth. Simply, The Last Resort.

Cannot say I was in much of a hurry to visit Bali. No rush at all. The Last Resort has a sense of finality and I wasn’t quite ready for anything final, not yet. There were still too many things I wanted to do and see. Thus, I put that dream of mine on a low burner marinating in the back of my mind and waited. And waited. And waited. Patiently.

And then … one day … not even sure how and why … I boarded a Tiger Air flight and a couple of hours later woke up from a long, long dream at Denpasar International Airport in Bali. Just like that. 

Kuta, one of the beach and resort areas in Bali, closest to the airport was my first stop. Could sense super laid back atmosphere already in the taxi. Seeing all generations cruising the streets wearing only bathing suits felt kind of refreshing, liberating and very appealing. At first. Then the initial positive feeling changed into somewhat awkward one. Hmmm, bathing suits, surfing boards but where is the beach?  Hadn’t I booked a room in a beach resort I wouldn’t have even known there is supposed to be one. But where is it?

Believe it or not but the beach in Kuta is hidden behind a man-high, Kuta long wall separating it from the rest of the village. Kuta beach resorts are technically no beach resorts at all but hotels closest to the wall. What a bummer. 

Not only Kuta is very laid back but also the people that come here to visit. Not surprisingly most of the visitors are Australians of all ages. After all, Bali has always been and still is a number one destination and party place for vacationing Australians. “Australian Majorca” as we say in Europe.    

As soon as I dropped off my bags in the hotel I went through a small opening in the wall to take a look at my paradise white sandy beach and turquoise warm sea. But there was yet another surprise waiting for me.

White sand wasn’t white at all but black (ish). Bali is a volcanic island and the more North you go (closer to the volcano) the darker it gets. Crystal clear water? Neither clear nor crystal but angry super high waves instead. Rather intimidating. And not a swimmer in sight. Nor any families with small children playing in the sand. People don’t come to Bali to swim or build castles but to surf. Bali is a surfer’s paradise.   

With an exception of shift made beach bars (few plastic chairs and a beer cooler) there are no restaurants or bars along Kuta beach. No panic, I must admit I quite enjoyed the made shift bars. Very laid back and very cheap. Even the beer was properly chilled. Just order one and point to the ‘bartender’ where you want to sit and voila. Have fun and enjoy the sunset.

Unfortunately, all these bars shut down just after the sunset and so does the Kuta beach life. For more, you need to visit one of the hundreds of bars in the village. And this is exactly what people do. All night long.

Perhaps Kuta was a bit too laid back for me after all. The seen of half-naked, overweight, tattoed bodies carrying a beer bottle at all times no matter how nice and friendly becomes somewhat monotonous after a while. I needed to change the scenery. Seminyak beach just about half an hour (or so) stroll away seemed like a good idea so I decided to give it a try.

Kuta and Seminyak are like day and night. And I, quite frankly, prefer Seminyak. Big time. While Kuta beach shuts down at sunset, Seminyak beach begins to fill up with life. Some restaurants, yes real restaurants and bars, don’t even open until 4 p.m. This is the magic hour when sunbeds are gradually being replaced with bean bags. The ‘second shift’ begins.  By 6 p.m. there are hardly any bean bags left. The whole of Bali is on the beach to watch the sunset. 

And the best of all – there is no wall. 

Note: there is also another beach between the two mentioned called Legian which more in Seminyak style rather than Kuta.

While Kuta appears to be more of an Australian ‘outback’ Seminyak has a real European upscale vibe where girls dress up for dinner and guys wear city shorts with loafers. Lovely village, lovely small boutiques selling quality clothing, trendy bars, beach resorts that are actually on the beach and of course the after sunset beach life. The bars stay open as long as there are customers. 

The beach is full of people, either in restaurants/bars under colorful umbrellas, or made shift bars (yes, there are few of them in between the stationary ones) or in nightclubs in one of the beach resorts or on rooftops (yes there are couple) or having a simple family picnic or just taking a stroll on the beach.

Night time is a low tide time. Time to take a stroll on the beach. No matter if you are in love or not, solo or with the company, happy or not you join the crowds for a night beach stroll. Period. The scenery is breathtaking and very romantic. This is the time when newlyweds ‘invade’ the beach for best photoshoot opportunities. The temperature drops down, the sand cools off and looks almost white. Paradise at last?

Sadly the sand shows its real color once you get home and try to wash the sticky crystals off your feet but more often than not end up in bed with a ton of glued sand. But it is worth it. Every single grain. There is nothing like a stroll on the beach at night during low tide. Absolutely magical. 

One of the most popular activities on both beaches that attracts a lot of people is releasing of baby turtles into the sea. Twice a week, in the late afternoon, volunteers from Bali Sea Turtle Society come to the beach with buckets full of newly hatched baby turtles that are to be released into the sea. Letting a life, no matter how small, go free is very special and greatly appreciated by onlookers. 

In no time huge crowds gather eager to help with the releasing process. Sadly, some of the hotels turned the release program into a business project and are now trying to cash in by offering their guests release-baby-turtle-activity.

A beach wouldn’t be a real beach without beach commerce. Bali beaches aren’t any different. Every few minutes a vendor selling hats, bracelets, scarves, sunglasses, beach mats/wear or back rub will approach you with a merchandise offer. Some tourists love to dig into their treasure boxes but most would rather be left in peace. Even though the never-ending no, ‘thank you’ may feel exhausting at times the vendors do bring a lot of color and charm into the scene. Just look at this lady and her hat decorated with merchandise.  Smart, well visible and nothing to pull/carry. 

While Indonesia is officially a Muslim country, in fact, the largest one in the world, Bali is not. The predominant religion is Hinduism. So going to Bali is not that much different from going to Majorca (after all) in terms of dress code, partying and adult beverages.

Bali beaches are not only a backdrop for sun, surf, and fun but also for funerals. Mourners gather on the beach for the ceremony and then sink the ashes somewhere in the sea.  

The Bali of my dreams does not exist. If there is one, it is somewhere else, not in Bali and I am absolutely fine with that. It took me some time but I did find another Bali, without white beaches, without crystal clear water but I like it just the same. I found real Bali, as it is. And who knows, the real Bali may still become my last resort. Eventually.

But first, I’d like to make sure that the ‘Bali’ of my dreams is only a dream. tbc…. In search of retirement paradise. 

p.s. in memory of Peter, the Consultant of Last Resort 

Kuta and Seminyak in pictures

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The bus ride from Oslob took some four hours. Maybe more. We could have made it in two or less if not for the traffic. Single lane all the way. I was smart enough to book a hotel room within walking distance from the North Bus Station yet it took me a good hour to get there “thanks” to Google Maps giving me a hard time.

Tip: I cannot stress enough the importance of light packing. And I really mean light. 7 kg? 5 kg? It is easily achievable in the tropics. I know.

So there I was, in a place that I successfully avoided during my stay in the Philippines. Now what?

I took the decision of skipping both Manila and Cebu City while flying over Manila on my way in. What I saw from the above was more than enough. I didn’t think I had stomach enough to see anything more. Never ending slums and in the midst of it all ‘a couple of’ high raised towers in a super modern looking downtown. The extent of clearly visible poverty, seen even from 300 – 500 meters above, and appalling living condition of thousands and thousands of people was beyond belief. And no hope in sight. If anything, things may only get worse as hundreds and thousands of people are moving into the cities every single day in search of a better life. But there is no better life. And not much hope. At the end, they will all end up in the slums with no hope at all of ever leaving them.

I didn’t see nearly as much poverty on the islands I visited. In fact, the life on the islands appeared to be ‘rolling on’.  The life appeared to be easier. People appeared to be surviving and the living conditions weren’t as bad as in the city.  Even the ‘slums’ were quite livable. I even took a stroll through a ‘slum’ on Bantayan Island and ‘survived to tell the tale‘ (no pictures though), something I wouldn’t even attempt doing in Manila or Cebu/Mactan.

Thus, I couldn’t help but wonder why do people leave the islands for the cities. It didn’t make any sense to me. But who am I to judge? They surely must have a good reason to do so and above all desire (or perhaps desperation) to better their lives and for some reason believe they may have a better chance of succeeding in the city.

After three days/nights in Cebu City, I still couldn’t find my way around. There was nothing super interesting or exciting to visit or see or even eat.

In short,  I didn’t like Cebu City at all and was only too happy to take a taxi over the bridge and for the last time (?) return to my friendly hotel on Mactan Island, pack my suitcase and leave the Philippines for (the ultimate paradise?) – Bali.

Cebu City in Pictures

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Whale watching in Oslob is a big, big business. “Everybody” living in some 20-kilometer radius has a stake in that lucrative enterprise one way or the other. Competition is fierce. Thousands of tourists that visit Oslob come here for one reason and one reason only – whale watching. All tourists but me. 

I came to Oslob not so much for whale watching but  … well; it was an alternative route back to Cebu City or rather my final destination, the Mactan Island hosting not only the airport but also the friendly hotel storing my not-missed-suitcase. This seemed to be a perfect choice for someone who doesn’t like taking the same road twice.  Instead, I took a ferry to Santander, and a bus destined for Cebu City but got off about 30 minutes into the ride, right in front of my resort in Oslob. (Siqujor island -> Dumaguete -> Santander -> bus to the resort ). 

So what did I do in Oslob? Other than watching stressed people trying to find the best whale watching deal? Not so much. The town is small and other than hiring a boat for whale watching trips there isn’t all that much to do or see thus I do not have all that much to write about. Hope you can enjoy the images instead.

Of course, I took a stroll in town, visited few landmarks like this unique structure, Cuartel, built to serve as barracks for Spanish army but halted when the Americans arrived in 1899.  For the most part, however, I stayed in my resort working on the blog, socializing or doing nothing.  

Even without the whale watching I found the stay in Oslob very pleasant and wanted to extend my stay for a few more days. Unfortunately, I got this brilliant idea too late. The weekend was approaching and all the rooms were already booked.

So I got on the bus in front of my resort to continue the interrupted route to Mactan Island. But once I arrived at the bus station I didn’t take a taxi to my friendly hotel but stayed in Cebu City, the city I consciously and successfully avoided during my entire stay in the Philippines. I guess I had to see what I didn’t want to see. 

Oslob in Pictures

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After five days of ‘shopping’ and ‘partying the time has come to leave the great provincial city of Dumaguete. Have seen and done it all. Or so it felt. However, I wasn’t quite ready getting back to Cebu City and it was Cebu City that seemed to be the only destination (*) out of the island. Unless … 

Each time I was entering or exiting my hotel I couldn’t help but notice a lovely photograph hanging on the lobby wall, a picture of a dreamy, paradise-like looking island. After few inquiries, I found out the island in question was only a short ferry ride away from Dumaguete. A though … why not take a ferry and spend a couple of days on that magical looking place? Why not indeed.

Coming to Siquijor, as the island is called, was one of the better decisions I ever made. Two booked nights (and days) turned into a 10-day long ‘extravaganza’. And I could have stayed even longer. Much longer.  

Success, as my son would say. And a major factor contributing to this success was the resort I was staying in. Nothing fancy yet fancy, home-like fancy. Super cozy restaurant / hung out area, wifi, interesting visitors/company, sandy beach, cool tides, spectacular sunsets, full body massages in a cabana on the sea (given by a strong and musculus security guard). Bungalows, even though somewhat on a budget side, were quite habitable – although now they might pass as upscale (ish) due to the ongoing upgrades that already began during my visit. 

The icing on the cake, however, and a natural hangout place was the infinity pool that blended magically into the sea. Total tranquility, serenity and … peace of mind. The ideal place for meditation (if you’re into it), contemplation, chill, and of course romance. Nothing short of a paradise.

And it doesn’t end here. If you are into snorkeling and/or scuba diving, the big bonus is still to come as the coral reefs ringing the island offer (supposedly) some of the best diving in the Philippines.

If the tranquility of the place and a quiet evening in the resort is not your cup of tea there is a small town about 2 kilometers away, right by the port, with mini-mall, few convenient stores, and few restaurants/bars where you can party. Next door resort is also worth visiting. Larger place, more people and subsequently more socializing.  

This is pretty much it. So what did I do? I went to town once, visited resort next door a few times,  but for the most part, stayed put in ‘my place’ and chilled. 10 days. And I’d do it again and again – in a heartbeat.

Note: there are another seaport and a much larger town in a different part of the island.

(*) Note: I found out later there are other destinations but from ‘the other seaport’ few kilometers away

Siquijor island in pictures

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Who knew coming into town would be such a treat. But this is exactly what it was, even better. After months ‘on the road’, I the city girl was falling in love once again with walking on sidewalks, stopping at red lights, breathing ‘pollution’ and embracing to its fullest the fun and conveniences a city can offer. Malls and rooftop bars. I had quite a list of needs and musts to be purchased. Like mascara or body lotion without bleach or proper sandals. My feet desperately needed to take a break from flip-flops. Finding a quality, and at the same time, modern pair of sandals was a challenge which took a good few hours to accomplish and required more than a monthly salary of a local worker but who counts.    

Dumaguete itself turned out to be quite a surprise. A very nice one indeed. Lovely university town with not too obvious (or maybe just not visible) poverty and amazing Corniche. Little that I knew, but it was pure luck I booked a hotel room right on the Corniche overlooking the sea and the most amazing trees along it.  The trees on the Corniche are spectacular and must be a pride of the city. The ferry terminal is only 20 min walk along the Corniche, a lovely walk which I took, thanks to my downsized luggage, both from and to the ferry, and also at least once or twice every day I spend in town.  

I spend 5 full days in Dumaguete. Guaranteed much more than any other visitor.  Most of the time I was hanging out in malls, not that I had so much shopping to do but I did it only because I could. After five days I decided it was enough, packed up my backpack again, put on my new sandals and walked to the ferry terminal. I needed a rest from all that shopping.  

Dumaguete in pictures

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Sadly, I never returned to Bantayan. My nomadic blood put a stop to it. Or perhaps I wasn’t quite ready to return. ‘Almost there‘ isn’t exactly there. At least it wasn’t then. For there is no doubt in my mind that one day I shall return. 

Renewing my visa took exactly two minutes … plus 40 USD.  (TIP: I went to deserted Immigration on Mactan island instead of overcrowded one in Cebu City). Five minutes later I was (once again) ready for new adventures.  And once again a million dollar question popped up – ‘where to‘. And once again, my never-ending search for paradise sandy beaches took precedence, but this time drew my attention to Panglao island. 

Panglao Island is a tiny island just off the coast of Bohol Island. A bridge connects the two providing on land commute between them – either by rather pricey tuk-tuks or super cheap jeepneys.

There are no direct ferries from Cebu Port in Cebu City to Panglao thus you need to take one to Bohol Island. Keep in mind that there are four, fives different companies operating Cebu-Bohol route with different travel time and pricing. All of them offer an air con indoor (hmmm) first class journey and an upper deck (windy but fun) second class. Keep also in mind there are two different destinations: North Bohol and South Bohol. You need to go South to Tagbilaran City to get to Panglao. At the arrival, you’ll be smartly directed to tuk-tuk station. Ignore it (if you like) and walk a few more meters to jeepney or try to find someone on the ferry to share tuk-tuk with as they are annoyingly overpriced. 

Panglao is a paradise all right. Perhaps not so much for beach lovers but for divers. Wherever you look you see divers and divers and then some more divers. And of course diving schools. One after another. 

The waters around the island are one of the top ranking diving paradises in the world. To get there, you need to hire a boat. The beach is full of boat owners (or their employees) selling trips to the best diving spots and/or surrounding islands.  Some rides can be pricey so haggling skills if you have any, may come very handy.   

Well yes. There is also a beach. Not much of a beach, I may add, but there is one nonetheless.  Sandy one. Very narrow (some places not more than a couple of meters) and not spectacularly long but surprisingly … enough … very pleasant to walk on or to party, especially in the evening.

In the evening the Alona beach turns into a party/chill hang out as the divers and occasional sunbathers leave the beach in favor of local and tourist walkers, joggers, kids, parties, and restaurants.

In the evening many restaurants romantically set out tables directly on the beach only a few centimeters from the water. If you like to soak your feet in the water while watching the sunset and dining at the same time – you may. How about that? Paradise on Earth. 

There is not so much to do on the island but chill … if you are not a diver that is. Not that there is anything wrong with chilling but if you like to engage in other activities, you are better off taking a jeepney or a tour to Bohol and visit e.g. Table mountains. 

Three (or so) days in Panglao is pretty plenty for non-divers.  Unfortunately, the location is not very suitable as a base for island hopping unless of course; you hire a private boat. The island is a sort of (ish) end of the road destination, even more so for long-term travelers as there are only two routes out of there; either back to Cebu City or to a town called Dumaguete.

I hate going back and thus took the latter.

Panglao in pictures

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The longer you live the beach lifestyle during your travels, especially in the tropics, the less ‘stuff’ in general and clothes, in particular, you will need. Eventually, once you’ve figured out what works best for you, you’ll end up wearing the same couple of outfits day in and day out. Hence, all those fancy dresses you brought with you just in case will lose their former glam becoming merely extra kilos, or in other words, ball & chain on your foot not only restraining your physical movements but also suffocating spontaneity, curiosity, and creative impulses.  Before long you will lose control and plan every move around your luggage.  The life will begin to feel miserable and the trip of your life not as fun as you once imagined it to be. Eventually, you must ask yourself a question ‘What on earth am I doing?“

Well, glad you asked, glad you’ve come to your senses – it is now (long overdue) time to find a friendly place where you can dump your stuff and enjoy the real freedom of traveling and the thrill of exploring the world. On your own terms.

I found a ‘friendly hotel’, dropped my luggage, and off I went without even giving it a second thought.

Free at last. Packed my camera, laptop, and few other necessities. Only a bag on my back – free hands. Would you believe I could still go lighter?  Much lighter. For whatever ‘necessities’ I put in my backpack wasn’t all that necessary. In fact, as much as 80% of the stuff I packed I didn’t even unpack let alone wore. If not for my camera gear and a laptop I could easily fit all I really needed in a small handbag. What a classy way to travel.

My friendly hotel was strategically located near Cebu International airport on Mactan island to where I sought ‘refuge’ after Palawan mishaps (see my previous post). The staff swore on Buddha and many other gods that Bantayan island is the place where I may find my paradise so this is where I went. 

It took a better part of the day to reach the island; first one-hour taxi ride to the North bus station on Cebu island, then a four-hour bus ride to the ferry terminal and then a two-hour ferry ride. The buses leave every half hour. For (luggage) convenience take a RoRo (roll on roll off) bus as it goes on the ferry (you can leave your luggage on the bus durig ferry ride) and then drops you off in Santa Fe village, which will most certainly be your final destination, only a two-three minute ride from the ferry terminal. You can easily walk should you like to do so. 

Note: the bus’s final destination is the island’s capital town – also called Bantayan. Most of the resorts pick their guests up from ferry terminal. If yours does not, continue with the bus to the Santa Fe village or take a tuk-tuk to your destination. I had a bus drop me off in the village and then walked 200-300 meters to my resort.  It was the first time ever I reached a hotel on foot.  How liberating. 

The first thing I noticed once I got off the bus was this sign (snus – Swedish chewing tobacco). Hmm? Really? I was so surprised to see it that it took me a while to understand what it was that I was actually seeing.

Next to it was another sign advertising typical Swedish dishes. A huge Swedish flag welcomed me at my resort. WOW. How nice. What is it all about? 

What is it all about? Well, (as I found out later) the island is popular with expats. The Swedes were the first ones to ‘occupy’ Bantayan some 20 years ago. Other nationalities, Americans, Canadians, Australians, Germans and others, followed.  Most of those guys (they are almost only guys) left their home countries, exes, grown-up children, grandchildren and maybe a cloudy prospect of a boring retirement home for a brand new life.  They came to Bantayan not to retire but to start afresh – a new life on the paradise island with new families, new local wives, a new set of newborns … and new businesses contributing to the local economy, creating job opportunities and even educating employees about Western customer service.  Yes, for many settling down and killing time wasn’t just enough. Own little business, perhaps a restaurant or a bar, added that little extra meaning that would otherwise be amiss – and not only from the social point of view. After all, There Is No Taste Like Home. Right? 

After months of eating noodles, street food and bad Filipino food (sweet, fatty and bony  – not a fan, sorry) I found myself … who would even imagine … in a culinary paradise. Tables, grown-up size chairs, table clothes, forks, knives, mashed potatoes and the best Western dishes one can only wish for prepared by very ambitious, proud of their heritage and only the-best-is-good-enough chefs. The best Wiener schnitzel I have ever had was not in Germany or in Austria (or cooked by my mother) but on Bantayan island in the Philippines.   Go and figure.

As tiny as the Sana Fe village is there is no shortage of bars/pubs and even ‘nightclubs’ where Westerners and locals socialize. The bars are ‘safety heaven’ of a sort for expats where they can take a break from the everyday island life, meet few kindred souls and exchange stories about the ‘good old days’.  Nobody likes to go back but they all cherish the memories. People come here to stay. Most of them. This bar, Stumble Inn, opened during my visit by a lovely Australian couple that left Bali for Bantayan. Something to think about?  

Bantayan has plenty to offer in terms of culinary experience, social life and in fact everyday life but how about the paradise aspect of the island? What about white sandy beaches, crystal clear water, breathtaking scenery and all that stuff that turns a regular island into paradise?

Bantayan island is as close to my idea of ‘my home’ or ‘my island’ or even ‘my paradise’ as it can get. Maybe not 100%, but then nothing ever is. Lovely sandy beaches, clean water, very relaxing for body, soul, and mind. You can stroll the beaches barefoot at sunrise or sunset without a worry in the world. Thanks to the expatriates the beaches are maintained nice and clean. Any ‘greenery’ the tide may bring in is cleared up and buried in the sand as soon as it arrives. Ideal for beach lovers and even better for the ecosystem.

I lived right on the beach, in a sunset room, bit basic but it didn’t matter. Falling asleep listening to the waves or watching the sunrise while sipping on coffee was the ultimate reward for any inconvenience. But, if I were to stay longer I’d probably move into a bungalow resort next door.

I visited the island during the low season, yet was not in a hurry to leave.  Truth be told, I didn’t want to leave at all.  And I wouldn’t have if not for my visa. It was about to expire and I needed to go to Cebu or Mactan to extend i. I was seriously thinking of coming back and even envisioned few business opportunities I could start to keep myself occupied and happy. Well … it didn’t happen …  I didn’t come back. My nomadic blood and (once I dropped ball & chain off my foot) my newly gained freedom took me to other places.

Tip: visa valid for one month is issued on arrival which can be later renewed one month at the time. If you like to stay longer you’d be better off getting a visa for 6 months via Filipino Embassy in your home country. Much cheaper too.

If Bantayan was ‘all that’ during low season I can only imagine what a paradise it must be during high season. It, btw, starts in October – should you like to give it a shot.

Bantayan in pictures

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Condé Nast readers have voted Palawan in the Philippines the most beautiful island in the world. So naturally, no questions asked, the island became my next destination. For who can say no to pristine beaches, crystal clear waters, breathtaking scenery, long sandbars, hammocks hanging just a few centimeters above the water, panoramic views, first class service, cool breeze, fresh exotic fruit for breakfast, delicious BBQ for dinner, chilled drinks at sunset, lovely company, inner peace, mind and soul stimulation and above all amazing photo opportunities? Who can say no to something most beautiful? Who can say no to something that is number ONE?  I’ve been looking for my paradise island for a long time. And now I have arrived at one. At last. I am one lucky girl, am I not?  Let’s dream on.

It took half a day to travel from Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia via Manila to Puerto Princesa, the capital town of Palawan. I was toying with an idea of spending a few days in Manila but then decided against it. The glimpse of the city from the airplane and then another glimpse while changing terminals was more than enough. Changing terminals turned out to be a stressful and time-consuming drag due to total traffic chaos. Not only did it take at least half an hour to get from one terminal to the other only 500 meters away but we also had to climb a high flight of stairs, up and down (with luggage) as the bus stops on the other side of a very busy road. 40 minutes altogether.

Tip: If you need to change terminals, make sure you travel light and have plenty of time. Alternatively, fly with the Philippines Airlines to avoid terminal change. 

Palawan welcomed me with an amazing sunset. But (as the story continues :)) that was the only welcome I got. From then on the events took its own course.

Nobody welcomed me at the gate which is (apparently) customary in this part of the world. Instead, I had to take all my luggage and walk to a designated area 200 meters away then look for a specific spot to catch hotel transfer ride. 

There was no welcoming committee at the hotel either. Instead, I was met by staff who were only interested in selling various trips and that before they even checked me in. Hold on, let me check in first, let me get rid of my luggage, let me rest a minute, let me have dinner and perhaps a cocktail, then we can talk.

Once I was checked in I went to the hotel restaurant to get a bite to eat. I ordered Filipino national dish (what else?) – pork Adobo and was looking forward to a lovely meal and then relaxing evening by the pool. It didn’t work out that way. The Filipino national dish turned out to be a plate of rice with small cubes of pork fat in gravy. Yes, pork fat. I am not exaggerating; it was 95% fat and maybe 5% meat. Unbeatable. I let the staff know I couldn’t eat that but no efforts were made to replace the dish or compensate it in any other way. The only response I got was a snotty reply; “This is the way we like it“. Ouch. I left it all and went to bed hungry and angry … but after all (considering) still in good spirit for even though the start of this trip hasn’t been all that great I had some wonderful days ahead of me on paradise beaches on the most beautiful island in the world. Nothing else mattered. Definitely not a piece of fat. 

So first thing in the morning I set out to scout my paradise. I was walking up and down, right and left, North, South, East, West, along with the coast, studying maps, asking people .. and …. couldn’t find anything resembling paradise. Nothing Nada. Zero. There are no beaches in Puerto Princesa, let alone paradise beaches. All I could find was a stretch of land by the sea that technically one could call a beach but in reality, it was a sandy, dirty, muddy and most unwelcoming swamp where I could never, would never put my foot. Nobody would. And with an exception of fishermen, nobody does. The ‘beaches’ of Puerto Princesa are unusable and as such totally deserted. 

Problem with Puerto Princesa beaches like with most of Palawan beaches and in fact, most of the Philippines islands’ beaches is the mangrove. As beneficial as it is for our Earth’s wellbeing it is sadly not very pleasant for beach lovers who’d rather walk on white sand and swim in crystal clear water then hop in smelly, un-walkable and a half of the time (depending on the tide) un-swimmable swamps. 

This five-star resort is right on the beach. It even have a phrase “beach resort” in its name. The beach, however, is… well… closed. Shut down. Fenced off. Inaccessible and unusable. Deserted. Water villas for which you pay double are not standing in crystal blue/green water but right in the mangrove. To get to the clear water and walkable bits and pieces of sand you need to walk some 500-meter long bridge through the mangrove.

But once you get there, once you pass the mangrove, it is pretty magical – you are in heaven. Shallow crystal clear water, long sandbanks, plenty of lovely spots for a picnic (you need to bring everything yourself though), the perfect place for romance and sunset watching. However, there won’t be any sunset watching for you – the bridge closes at 5 p.m. and you need to rush back to the resort and most probably spend the rest of the afternoon and evening by the pool ‘enjoying’ overpriced cocktails and meals.

Resorts in Puerto Princesa are pretty isolated. Could it be purposely? There is nothing nearby, no local restaurants, no local shops, no place you can walk to and no public transport either. Wherever you go, you need to take a tuk-tuk. Even though it isn’t very far between the places, it can nonetheless be stressful to always have to depend on transportation. In addition, as a solo female traveler, I didn’t feel very comfortable riding a tuk-tuk at night with the moon as my only light source. Furthermore, you need to have excellent negotiating skills and a lot of patience to convince tuk-tuk drivers to take you to an isolated resort from where they have no chance of getting a ride back. So I, as many others, stayed in ‘imprisoned’ at the resort paying double, triple, quadruple for the pleasure of dining there rather than going downtown to contribute to local economy.

Note, all restaurants/bars in hotels/resorts are overpriced. The more isolated resort and/or higher starred the more overpriced dining. 

To get better access to the local vibe, restaurants, bars, malls, nightlife you need to be as near the main street as only possible. It is also from there you can catch a jeepney, local public transport and visit surrounding areas at a fixed price. A 20-30 minute jeepney ride for 20 pesos will take you to Honda Bay, Puerto Princesa hot spot from where you can do island hopping, diving, snorkeling or just beach bumming. 

The attraction of Honda Bay wasn’t as attractive as I was made to believe – not for a beach bum, anyway. Tiny, overcrowded islands, super tiny beaches or lack of them. Rocky shoreline making sea access from difficult to almost impossible. Far from clean water. None of the islands were inhabited hence there were no hotels, restaurants, bars or an overnight stay. Visiting the islands is not that cheap either as besides boat transfer and lunch you need to pay the government tax for each and every island you visit. 

Oh well, what to do? Not much. I accepted my ‘defeat’, dropped the idea of finding paradise on Palawan, went back to my hotel and shifted my focus to pool activities instead. I was staying in Deep Forest Garden Hotel, a rather unusual resort but warmly recommended full of (out of place) ‘wild’ animals in the garden and overpriced restaurant. Kitsch at its best. However, I enjoyed staying there. Even though the place was somewhat isolated, it was near the fishing village where local people lived and attracting local commerce. I was lucky to have few tiny shops and a bakery right at the entrance. I managed. Not only that, I also found my inner peace there and could focus on writing again.  All was good. But not for long.

One day it all came ‘crashing’ down on me. I found out that all those beautiful paradise beaches, breathtaking views, fantastic resorts not in or around Puerto Princesa but in the Northern part of the island, a place called El Nido some 230 kilometers away. OMG. What a bummer. How could I have missed that? I will never know. Shame on me.

A quick look at the map, at the mangrove, at the shore and the nearby islands. It looked optimistic and very promising – I was almost sure I could find what I was looking for on one of the islands. But all that came at a price. Crazy price at that, even for a Westerner. All those fantastic resorts were five-star romantic luxury treats not very suitable for a solo female flashpacker. But above all, it would take me 7-8 hours of a very bumpy ride to get there. Due to my recent surgery, the ride felt hazardous, and I didn’t want to take that risk. I never went. What an irony of life. I guess it wasn’t meant to be. Not this time. I may be back one day. But then I’ll fly directly to El Nido.

Tip: Instead of flying to Puerto Princesa you can fly directly to El Nido from Manila. There are four flights a day. Take one of them and enjoy (presumably) the most beautiful island in the world. 

Puerto Princesa in pictures

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Never in a million years did I expect to be back in Malaysia so soon and definitely not only a few day after my departure but this is exactly what happened. I got a tip, became curious and nothing could stop me from going … not back to Malaysia but onwards to the most beautiful island in the world and hopefully also my dream destination  .. in short: 

Readers of Condé Nast voted Palawan in the Philippines the most beautiful island in the world. What a timing. I have been toying myself with a thought of finding a paradise island where I could live happily ever after so, of course, Palawan was the most obvious choice for my next destination. I had to go there and check it out. Right away. 

There was only one teeny tiny obstacle. Getting from Brunei to Palawan was neither very straightforward nor cheap. There are not that many airlines operating from/to Brunei. My only reasonable priced option was getting back to Malaysia from where I could catch one of the budget airlines (Air Asia). So Malaysia … here I come. Again.

The prospect of flying with the Royal Brunei Airlines gave an extra spice to the trip, and it did higher the anticipations a notch. For not only has this 10 aircraft 16 destination strong fleet few passengers making each one of them unique but it also provides a 100% Dreamliner service. No wonder I was looking forward to my virgin flight with Brunei’s national carrier.

Expectations were higher than high, and I was so hoping not to get disappointed. I didn’t.  All passengers, coach included, got a royal welcome and then royal in-flight-service. Cool mist humidifiers were on full blast and as soon we boarded the aircraft, we were served cold drinks. Once air-borne the lovely, smiling, alert and attentive staff always ready to satisfy (most of) our wishes. Whatever they couldn’t provide (e.g. alcohol) we were welcome to bring onboard. How about that? First class.

Bandar Seri Begawan International Airport was small, efficient and very charming. No kilometer-long lines in sight. In fact, hardly any people at all. Quick check-in. Few meter walk and you’re at the gate. Round waiting hall with gates around it cut the distance to an absolute minimum – didn’t take more than a minute to get to the gate. (Guessing each of the ten aircraft has its own gate)

It only took an hour and to reach Kota Kinabalu a.k.a. KK which was my destination and transit to Palawan. The town is on the list of one of the best retirement places in the world thus I figured I may as well spend a few days there and explore what that rather remote Borneo town has to offer. 

A large part of downtown in KK is waterfront. It starts with a local market and then continues as a promenade with dozens of bars and restaurants. In a couple of bars, you can not only enjoy a well-chilled drink and a bite to eat but also a well-deserved massage. Top it all with the glorious sunset and you’re in heaven. The waterfront is true sunset paradise. ‘Everyone’ comes to the waterfront to watch the sunset and to party. 

No one seems to pay much attention to the sunset ‘next door’ – at the market. The market is open all day (and half a night), seven days a week. Freshly caught fish is delivered, sold or cooked in minutes. Fruits and vegetables likewise. The food court at the market is jam-packed with locals hungry not only for food but also for gossip. Just a regular market. I thought.

What made this market so different from other markets I visited was the sheer amount of small kids (4 – 7-year-old) running everywhere. At first, I took for granted they followed their parents to work which is so common throughout South East Asia until I realized it was not the case. The kids weren’t brought in by parents for supervision but most probably came there by themselves … to work. Cheap labor – human shopping carts. How sad. 

A 6-year-old boy carries bags for a fully grown man

Bags are too heavy and he drops them

Gets a penny or two for his hard work

Waterfront, market, outdated mall. That is pretty much it. The town itself is rather dull. Industrial feel. No beaches. You need to travel a bit or take a boat to nearby islands to walk in the sand or snorkel. I haven’t done it hence cannot vouch for their quality but am pretty sure the beaches in K.K. are very much the same as anywhere else in Malaysia. Not that great. 

How could Kota Kinabalu find a place on a list of top retirement destinations is beyond my comprehension.  The situation may be better outside of town or on the islands – but not by much. Malaysia and I aren’t a perfect match. The humidity and absence of pristine beaches are two major factors stopping me from paradise search in Malaysia. Be it Peninsula or Borneo.

Perhaps I’ll find my little paradise in Palawan. After all, it is the most beautiful island in the world. Isn’t it?

Kota Kinabalu – water-front in pictures

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It only takes 2 hours to cross Brunei Bay dividing Labuan island from the Sultanate of Brunei, a tiny nation in the middle of Malaysian Borneo. You can either take a speedboat, bumpy and closed in ‘cigar’ with a single row of seats on either side or a car ferry. The latter is the way to go – not only for the comfort but most of all for the scenery you will never forget. Before you leave, however, you may like to stock up on some wine and/or beer in one of many duty-free shops next to the terminal. Brunei is a dry country where no alcohol is sold anywhere, including hotels. If you are non-Muslim and over 17, you can bring in 2 liters of alcohol and 12 cans of beer.

Crossing Brunei Bay is like traveling through a mangrove forest but instead of trees, you navigate among the tankers. To this day I am mesmerized by the sheer number of the vessels stationed around Labuan. To this day I am sorry I didn’t take a shot that would give justice to that surreal and almost unbelievable scenery.  One of those sceneries you need to see to believe. 

The ferry terminal ‘on the other side’ is located some 20 kilometers away from your presumed destination, the nation’s capital town – Bandar Seri Begawan. Getting into the city can be a time-consuming challenge – if you’re unlucky. There are only forty-something taxis in BSB so don’t count on one being just when/where you need it. If you are lucky, you can catch a public bus. The problem is that they only run a few times a day. The best option and the one that worked for me is to ask someone on the ferry for a ride. If there is room in their car, the locals will only be too happy to help. People of Brunei, along with ethnic Burmese, are the kindest people I have ever met.

Despite (or perhaps because of) other travelers’ accounts and their pros/cons arguments about visiting Brunei in the first place, the sultanate was one SEA country I was most curious about and the one I had to visit – no matter what.

Disappointed? Not at all. I knew what to expect, and I took it for what it is. Even though there wasn’t very much to see or do I liked being there just the same. What surprised me the most were the people, always glad looking and smiling. Big, heartwarming smiles. There was something exotic and mystical ‘in the air’ that my senses and imagination found stimulating. My only disappointment was that I couldn’t stay few days longer. I would have liked so much to take a road trip, still better a boat, and drive/ride through the whole country. 

Perhaps the best known and most talked about the landmark, the gem of Brunei is the Royal Palace. The palace or rather the top of its golden dome can be seen from almost anywhere in town. The palace itself (which I was so looking forward to shooting at night) was out of reach. But … if I only made my research better … 

I would have come one day earlier for then not only could I see the palace in all its glory but also I could shake hands with the sultan. Yes, during the three days long Hari Raya celebration the palace door is open for everybody and anybody who wishes to visit and the host himself is there to greet the crowd. Had I only come one day earlier. One day. 

Take a note, everyone, if you ever travel through this region and like to see the palace and shake hands with the Sultan of Brunei come and visit during Hari Raya. The same applies to open houses in Malaysia. If you like to enjoy the hospitality of Malaysian home and celebrate the end of Ramadan with locals come and visit during Hari Raya. 

The city center is tiny, a couple of streets, small game park/football field/gathering square, a mosque (2 minutes away) and waterfront. During my visit, the park and the rest of the city were being decorated for the upcoming birthday celebration. The sultan’s 70th birthday. 

Maybe a hundred or two hundred meters offshore and in full view from the waterfront, the largest floating village in the world is floating about. Even though its existence once started as a housing project the Kampong Ayer is today anything but. Today the village is a well-functioning town housing over 30.000 people, with well-working plumbing system, schools, shops, businesses, transportation, Internet, mosques. Everything one can need is there.  By no means, it is a slum with 30.000 shacks built on the top of each other (Filipino style) but well organized, clean, well taken care of houses – some of them even luxurious villas. Living in the floating village is for most inhabitants, no longer a necessity but a way of living.

Hiring a boat and cruising through the floating village and then further through the mangrove to watch monkeys and other jungle animals is a must. Just go down to the waterfront and in no time several boat operators will approach you with tour offers. Ask for Mark. He and his wife run a company together and offer the best tours in Brunei. They are very knowledgeable and generous with their time. Mark is also a wildlife photographer … do I need to say more.

Cruising the mangrove and getting the glimpse of the real jungle was magical. Maybe the peak of the whole trip. So quiet, so peaceful, so serene, so tranquil, so pure and so genuine – to the point that even I, the city slicker, had no problem letting the time stop and just stand still for as long as it took while I was under the spell of the real paradise – Eve and Adam paradise.

Sitting in that boat I knew I was experiencing something unique.  The real jungle is disappearing to give way for more lucrative palm oil plantations.  Apparently, the only real jungle that is left is in Brunei. Malaysian Borneo is big business today. Not sure how things are on Indonesian Borneo … but I hear …   

Brunei in pictures

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