March 2016, Mekong Delta in Vietnam
If I were to choose one place, I imagined being the most exotic and magical, that fascinated me the most, that I was most curious about, most excited about, looking forward to visiting the most and that would give me this once in a lifetime experience – the mighty Mekong Delta would be the one. Coming to Vietnam and not taking a glimpse at the Delta was not even an option. I had to go.
And I did. And so should you if you ever get a chance. Just remember, cruising Mekong Delta IS a lifetime experience so make it the best adventure ever. Make it a true once in a lifetime experience. Take charge. Don’t let tour operators or your own ignorance or whatever else mess it up for you.
I bought a three day, two night trip from Saigon with the exit in Phnom Penh, that is no return to Saigon but onward (on a speedboat) to Phnom Penh. Cannot remember now how much the trip was, but it was cheap. Very cheap. So cheap the warning bells went off. I became suspicious and asked questions but everything seemed in order. So, I went.
The initial leg of the trip took three hours by bus. The first glimpse of the delta was impressive. Intrigued and full of expectations I was ready for the experience of my life. The Mekong is not a river. It is a sea. Raging sea.
We left the bus and got on small boats waiting for us and set off for ‘real delta’ – a web of narrow channels resembling tiny veins leading to/from larger aortas. We were to take tiny narrow boats and cruise the channels, just like the locals do.
Once we got to our destination, we found ourselves in a jam-packed “jetty”. We were not alone. Long, long line with other tours’ participants queuing up for the same ride. We joined the queue. Surprisingly, it went quickly. Perhaps even too quick. The aim was to get us out of there as soon as possible. The well-proven routine was in practice – down the stairs, onto the boat, five people per boat, put a Vietnamese hat on and off you go. Quick, quicker, quickest. No questions asked. No time to take a look around. No time to embrace the surroundings. No time for reflections. Just put the hat on and get the hell out of here. If you cannot make it down the stairs to the boat – we will carry you down. Just keep on moving. Just like cattle.
Instead of peaceful, pristine, soul healing, mind-blowing, once in a lifetime nature experience, we ended up in the middle of the Friday afternoon traffic jam – a stressful 15-minute hold-on-to-your-hat boat ride. Forget the scenery, forget everything else and enjoy watching the ‘captain’ maneuvering the boat with a firm hand (and foot) doing hers/his best not to crash into other boats.
What a passage. Once in a lifetime experience alright … not quite what I expected though. The focus shifted to whether we would bump into another boat or not. It was like riding a gocart in an amusement park. Hence, glad to report there were no casualties. We have all survived to tell the story. (:))
And with that, the fun ended. The rest of the tour we spend on the bus traveling long distances and long hours visiting different workshops (read souvenir shops) along the delta. One after another. The main attraction of the second day was a visit to the crocodile farm.. and few more workshops. Some of the workshops were quite interesting, however, this was not what we came here for thus didn’t appreciate them but found them annoying instead. We knew we fell into a typical tourist trap. As anywhere else in Vietnam, even Mekong Delta is a land of hawkers. Not as visible, arrogant and pushy as in other places but hawkers nonetheless.
The accommodation was very basic the first night and beyond basic the second night. The hotel was located in such a shady area that we all, young and younger, stayed together as no one dared to go anywhere. We had simple dinner in the next door hole in the wall establishment and then called it a day. To this day I am not sure how I survived that night.
BUT, I woke up to the most amazing sunrise and very interesting views. This shabby ramshackle of a hotel where we were staying at was on the delta and (out of blue) I found myself on a terrace (having uneatable breakfast) overlooking floating village. Must admit I quite enjoyed sitting there watching the village wake up and wouldn’t mind staying longer if we weren’t all rushed out from the hotel by rude and aggressive men-only staff. The tuk-tuk service that came to pick us up treated us as bad. Just like cattle.
The third day of the tour was a short one and I cannot even remember what we did. Visit to yet another workshop? After that, the trip ended for all but me. The group set off for the return to Saigon while I boarded another bus that took me to my speedboat. After five hours of a very enjoyable ride, I left Vietnam behind me and arrived at Phnom Penh in Cambodia.
Reflection: Vietnamese Mekong Delta (which btw is disputed area that once belonged to Cambodia) is a home for 20 million people. They live on the river and off the river. In fact, their entire survival depends on the river, be it drinking water, food, transport, personal hygiene facilities, and playground for the kids. What shocked me the most was how filthy and polluted the delta is. All waste goes right overboard. Sewage, rubbish, plastic, you name it. And then the kids jump into that filth to play.
Summa summarum: I visited Mekong Delta in Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. They are all very interesting yet so different but if you like to have that one in a lifetime experience you need to come to Vietnam.
To get the most out of the trip don’t waste your time searching for budget tours, no matter how wonderful they seem to be, but go for top-notch ones or even better for private ones. Get few people together and the private tour may even prove to be cheaper than the budget one.
To get the most out of the trip and don’t fall into a tourist trap you need to be in control and choose yourself what to visit when and for how long. For:
- you don’t want to sit on a bus for hours but enjoy as much time as only possible on the delta
- you don’t want to fight traffic jams in the channels but experience their true serenity and beauty on your own terms and for as long as you like
- you don’t want to visit mini markets (single boats) specializing in selling overpriced goods to tourists but authentic floating markets run by local farmers selling goods to locals (requires spending the night and 4 a.m. wake up call)
- you don’t want to have lunch that was pre-ordered and commissioned by your guide (same dish for everybody – cattle style in an upstairs smelly room) but a freshly cooked meal of your choice. (Tip: leave the restaurant right away and go next door)
Note: Commission is ‘the king’ in Vietnam. For example, if your guide brings you to a workshop and you buy something he gets a cut if he brings you to a restaurant he gets a cut. It is at the guides’ discretion where they take you and it isn’t always you that is a priority. Nobody will stop you from ordering whatever you like from the menu, but things come flying in with such a speed that people don’t even have time to reflect and accept what’s coming in … as the bus is leaving in 20 minutes.
All in all: Mekong Delta is so fascinating, there is so much to explore and to enjoy. Plan your trip carefully and make it your own. Make it once in a lifetime experience. You don’t want return home cursing.. If I only …
Mekong Delta in Pictures
