The magic city – Cartagena

Inexplicable yet so fascinating how easily we can change the course of our lives (or at least our itinerary) when given the opportunity or when something pokes our interest, stimulates our senses, is aesthetically appealing or releases the free flow of emotions that make our pulse rise and the heart beat faster. One quick glance at a random picture that caught my eye was all I needed to drop everything at hand and set the sail off to a place I had never heard of before let alone planned exploring located in a country I had no desire to visit at that point in time. The IT image I lost myself in was the image of Colombian city Cartagena, the breathtakingly picturesque (what I found out later)  UNESCO World Heritage Site a.k.a. The Magic City and there was no power in the world that could make me look elsewhere. 

Apparently, I was not the only one who found Cartagena (or rather its image) irresistible, for as it turned out this colonial, colorful, beautifully preserved walled city and fortress with centuries-long history and stunning architecture is one of the top travel destinations in 2018. In fact, it claimed the prestigious second place in the CNN survey. Canada went all the way and named the city number one of 2018 trending destination. As did I. Ever since I saw that photo I could not think of anything else. Cartagena (and subsequently Colombia) was the place I had to visit and I had to do it right away. 

After years and years of topping the lists of most dangerous countries in the world, Colombia has made a 180-degree turn around and is today doing whatever it can to restore the damaged reputation by dismantling the drug cartels, employing more policemen,  investing in tourist police and making the safety of all but specifically visitors its priority. Whatever they do they must be doing it right for the country not only lost its “prime’ place on the list of most dangerous but is today topping the lists of hottest travel destinations in the world with Cartagena being number one and Medellin being the hottest retirement destination. Very impressive. (Let us only hope the upcoming election will not interfere with the current state of affairs. There is a concern Colombia will become another Venezuela if the Petro guy wins.) 

It took me longer than planned to get there as my journey went through both Bogota and Medellin, which I originally had no intention to visit, but eventually, the day had come. I finally arrived in the Magic City and my excitement and anticipation couldn’t be any higher.

As an icing on the cake, (especially for me who is searching for a beach paradise) Cartagena is a beach town facing the Caribbean Sea and the sunset. Why not kill two birds with one stone then? Why not indeed. To embrace the two I parked myself right on the beach at Bocagrande only a stone’s throw away from the Walled City. Paradise on Earth? 

First thing in the morning I grabbed my camera, a bottle of water and off I went to the Walled City in search of the colorful architectural masterpieces – the carrot that made me drop everything for Cartagena in the first place. 

Tip: A walk from (almost) the end of Bocagrande to the Walled City takes about 40 minutes. It is pretty hot and humid so you may like to take a taxi or a bus instead. Taxi costs approx 2.5 USD and bus 35 cents. (June 2018)

The Walled City

Cafe del Mar draws crowds of tourists every sunset. Opens at 5 p.m.

All visitors to Cartagena come for one reason and one reason only -The Walled City. It is a historic part of town, The Old Town, founded in the 15th century. As the name suggests, the city was built in between the wall which (btw) is 11 kilometers long and partially some 50 meters wide. Locals and visitors come to the wall every night to watch the sunset. The thick wall is full of “windows” (after all it is a fortress), offering not only a bench to sit but also shelter from the elements.  Long before the sunset, these cozy hideaways in the wall are quickly filled up with local couples in hope of a romantic picnic and some quality time with the loved one. Visitors, on the other hand, prefer sitting in cafes on the top of the wall, like Cafe del Mar.

It goes without saying, the Walled City is where all the action is. As a vast majority of visitors “stay and play” there it is also very touristy which could be negative for some, or positive for others as the area is well lit and patrolled by the police making it the safest part of town. It is also the most expensive part of town full of fancy coffee shops, restaurants, high-end boutiques, boutique hotels, luxurious Airbnbs, overpriced hostels and… (surprise, surprise) annoying street vendors. If you’re in town for a couple of days only and not on a shoestring budget this is the place to stay.  

Tip: the best time to visit is Sunday. Most Colombian towns, including Cartagena and even Bogota, are almost deserted on Sundays as most people don’t work on that holy day, thus even many street vendors stay at home thereby making city strolls and explorations so much more enjoyable.

Slideshow with more images all the way down

Getsemani

Even thought Getsemani is (kind of) within the city walls it is in fact outside THE wall. Not by much but outside nonetheless. The neighborhood is as old as the historic district but is not refurbished. At least not yet. People say Getsemani is what the Walled City used to be. This makes Getsemani a genuine historic district. As opposed to the Walled City where only tourists can afford to stay many locals actually live in Getsemani. This offers the visitors a unique opportunity of a glimpse into Cartagena’s everyday life that every evening is displayed in front of their eyes when the locals bring tables, chairs, board games, food & drink into the streets and relax while enjoying the evening with family and friends.

Getsemani is probably the most interesting part of town, a very vibrant neighborhood with the edgy vibe and genuine local street culture. Many restaurants, bars, and best salsa nightclubs are located here. It is, of course, much cheaper than the Walled City, thus popular with backpackers. Most of the hostels are located right here.

The place is pretty safe, however, some people under the influence sitting/lying “here and there” can feel somewhat intimidating. Not that they are capable of doing anything, but why take a chance. So don’t walk alone after dark.

El Centro

El Centro is a small area between Getsemani and the Walled City. Here you can find plenty of small shops selling practically everything including electronics, souvenirs and plenty of street food. If you’re looking for a bargain or specific service (watch battery replacement or new recharger) El Centro is the place.  

Tip: there is a small park right in the middle of town inhabited by small monkeys. On the way from the Walled City to Getsemani or the other way around take a walk through the park and say hi to the monkeys.

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Bocagrande

Bocagrande skyline as seen from the Walled City

Cartagena seems to have it all, lovely colonial walled city attracting tourists from all over the world and the sandy beaches. Matchmade in heaven?

Bocagrande, a three kilometers long and about 500 meters wide at its widest spot peninsula, is marketed as a luxurious neighborhood on a sandy beach with luxurious hotels, condominiums, malls, restaurants, and supermarkets. The sea in front and the bay in the back make sure all hotel rooms and apartments not only have lovely views but are also very breezy which is hugely appreciated in hot and humid climate. Sounds good, doesn’t it?

Well, let me tell you right away. People do not come to Cartagena for the beach. Even though the neighborhood as a whole isn’t too bad the beach itself is awful. Dirty black sand, dodgy looking scam practicing bars/restaurants filled predominantly with locals and vacationing Colombians, an endless stream of aggressive vendors that make your blood boil, persistent massage terrorists that constantly hassle you, con artists that keep you on your toes. Stress, stress, stress. No chance for the quality relaxation or any relaxation for that matter. Not even for 10 seconds. (For real, this is not an exaggeration. Read reviews on Tripadvisor). At night the hassling touts are replaced by hassling prostitutes and drug dealers. It just never ends. This must be the worst beach I have ever been to.

Bocagrande as seen from La Manga

The sea is supposed to be clean, however, it is difficult to tell when the bottom is black and invisible. Clean or not, it doesn’t look very inviting.  I’ve spent three long months in Cartagena but went into the sea only once. It was 30 seconds long in-and-out procedure. Yet I love beaches and warm sea. But not the one in Bocagrande. 

What surprises me the most is that there are tourists paying money to stay in fancy hotels along the beach, there are none on the beach though. I am guessing they are there exclusively for the view and the breeze.

La Boquilla 

La Boquilla is the second beach in Cartagena, on the other side of town not too far from the airport. It is marketed as (upcoming) luxurious (mostly) residential area on the beautiful beach. Hmm… the beach is much much larger than the one in Bocagrande, however, it is definitely not much better. Even though the sand looks less dirty it is still dirty and also very compact making the beach look more like a dirt road than a beautiful soft sandy beach.

Slideshow with more images all the way down

La Manga

La Manga is an upscale residential neighborhood not more than a 20-minute walk from the Walled City. The upscale of La Manga is not really comparable with the upscale of Western neighborhoods but it is as good as it gets in Colombia. I stayed in a lovely colonial house for 1, 5 months and really enjoyed it. 

It is a quiet and secure small island with many beautiful colonial houses. There are also few condominiums. If you are in Cartagena for a longer haul La Manga is the place to stay especially if you like to live in a house. Bocagrande could be another alternative if you prefer to stay in a breezy apartment. 

Summa Summarum

Being number one tourist world destination of 2018 as well as being the most visited city and number one tourist attraction in the country comes with a price tag. Or two. Both visitors and locals pay today for that privilege. 

Cartagena has not only become the most expensive city in Colombia which almost emptied the Walled City from its inhabitants but due to the crowds visiting the city, both regular tourists and the day trippers arriving on ships, it is also invaded by pushy touts who make the life of visitors rather difficult. To say the least.

Police daily radio appeal to let the visitors be, have no effect at all. The ‘business’ goes as usual. Cartagena is still a very poor country and the locals take every opportunity they get to make extra money. 

Cartagena is hot and humid. Very hot and very humid. After long steamy hours exploring the Walled City, there is nothing more satisfying (at least for me) than an evening stroll on the beach, a dip in the sea, a well-chilled drink, a bite to eat, breathtaking sunset.

Dream on.

Unfortunately, the beach is practically inaccessible to visitors. What a shame.  

All that glitters is not gold

Don’t get me wrong. Cartagena or rather the Walled City is lovely and undoubtedly worth a visit but is it really all that? Not sure. Part of the hype (imho) is related to the fact that Cartagena is a relatively new destination.  

I am very glad I came. I truly am. But the truth of the matter is that sometimes picturesque pictures are more picturesque than reality and that 16 million colors are perceived uniquely by each individual.  Images tend to be more saturated than reality. (Even my Bocagrande images don’t mirror the reality). 

There is a small expat community in Cartagena. They are though not as active as expats in Medellin. I cannot see myself living in Cartagena. Too hot, too humid, the worst beach in the world. But above all the constant harassment by touts and scammers do not qualify the city as a retirement paradise destination. Far from it. So, I’ll keep looking. 

p.s. I just happened to come across yet another picture that keeps my head spinning – Rainbow Mountains in Peru. 

The Walled City of Cartagena – slideshow

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The Walled City of Cartagena, Colombia

The streets and murals of Getsemani – slideshow

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

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DSC_1662

Walled city in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Murals and streets of Getsemani in Cartagena, Colombia

Bocagrande – slideshow

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena

Bocagrande, Cartagena