July 2016 in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
Never in a million years did I expect to be back in Malaysia so soon and definitely not only a few day after my departure but this is exactly what happened. I got a tip, became curious and nothing could stop me from going … not back to Malaysia but onwards to the most beautiful island in the world and hopefully also my dream destination .. in short:
Readers of Condé Nast voted Palawan in the Philippines the most beautiful island in the world. What a timing. I have been toying myself with a thought of finding a paradise island where I could live happily ever after so, of course, Palawan was the most obvious choice for my next destination. I had to go there and check it out. Right away.
There was only one teeny tiny obstacle. Getting from Brunei to Palawan was neither very straightforward nor cheap. There are not that many airlines operating from/to Brunei. My only reasonable priced option was getting back to Malaysia from where I could catch one of the budget airlines (Air Asia). So Malaysia … here I come. Again.
The prospect of flying with the Royal Brunei Airlines gave an extra spice to the trip, and it did higher the anticipations a notch. For not only has this 10 aircraft 16 destination strong fleet few passengers making each one of them unique but it also provides a 100% Dreamliner service. No wonder I was looking forward to my virgin flight with Brunei’s national carrier.
Expectations were higher than high, and I was so hoping not to get disappointed. I didn’t. All passengers, coach included, got a royal welcome and then royal in-flight-service. Cool mist humidifiers were on full blast and as soon we boarded the aircraft, we were served cold drinks. Once air-borne the lovely, smiling, alert and attentive staff always ready to satisfy (most of) our wishes. Whatever they couldn’t provide (e.g. alcohol) we were welcome to bring onboard. How about that? First class.
Bandar Seri Begawan International Airport was small, efficient and very charming. No kilometer-long lines in sight. In fact, hardly any people at all. Quick check-in. Few meter walk and you’re at the gate. Round waiting hall with gates around it cut the distance to an absolute minimum – didn’t take more than a minute to get to the gate. (Guessing each of the ten aircraft has its own gate)
It only took an hour and to reach Kota Kinabalu a.k.a. KK which was my destination and transit to Palawan. The town is on the list of one of the best retirement places in the world thus I figured I may as well spend a few days there and explore what that rather remote Borneo town has to offer.
A large part of downtown in KK is waterfront. It starts with a local market and then continues as a promenade with dozens of bars and restaurants. In a couple of bars, you can not only enjoy a well-chilled drink and a bite to eat but also a well-deserved massage. Top it all with the glorious sunset and you’re in heaven. The waterfront is true sunset paradise. ‘Everyone’ comes to the waterfront to watch the sunset and to party.
No one seems to pay much attention to the sunset ‘next door’ – at the market. The market is open all day (and half a night), seven days a week. Freshly caught fish is delivered, sold or cooked in minutes. Fruits and vegetables likewise. The food court at the market is jam-packed with locals hungry not only for food but also for gossip. Just a regular market. I thought.
What made this market so different from other markets I visited was the sheer amount of small kids (4 – 7-year-old) running everywhere. At first, I took for granted they followed their parents to work which is so common throughout South East Asia until I realized it was not the case. The kids weren’t brought in by parents for supervision but most probably came there by themselves … to work. Cheap labor – human shopping carts. How sad.
 A 6-year-old boy carries bags for a fully grown man |
 Bags are too heavy and he drops them |
 Gets a penny or two for his hard work |
Waterfront, market, outdated mall. That is pretty much it. The town itself is rather dull. Industrial feel. No beaches. You need to travel a bit or take a boat to nearby islands to walk in the sand or snorkel. I haven’t done it hence cannot vouch for their quality but am pretty sure the beaches in K.K. are very much the same as anywhere else in Malaysia. Not that great.
How could Kota Kinabalu find a place on a list of top retirement destinations is beyond my comprehension. The situation may be better outside of town or on the islands – but not by much. Malaysia and I aren’t a perfect match. The humidity and absence of pristine beaches are two major factors stopping me from paradise search in Malaysia. Be it Peninsula or Borneo.
Perhaps I’ll find my little paradise in Palawan. After all, it is the most beautiful island in the world. Isn’t it?
Kota Kinabalu – water-front in pictures
