San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur, the hottest spot in the country, the best surfing paradise in Latin America, a funky beach town with magical sunsets, a fishing village turned A Tourism City of Nicaragua. So true. But San Juan del Sur is also a typical 100% backpackers destination. Well, maybe 99%. Besides myself, there might have been five more people with a suitcase. (;))

The village itself is cute(ish), almost picturesque, Latino colorful, lively and very intense as 68 restaurants, countless convenience stores, pharmacies, banks, hostels, market, orange painted church and all sort of other small businesses are jam-packed in a 3-4 block wide and 3-4 block long area. You cannot get lost. No matter where you go/walk (incl the beach) it will not take longer than five minutes to get there. There is also a gas station on the way out of town and a supermarket if you feel like taking a long 10-minute walk. It will be, however, a walk for the walk’s sake as the supermarket doesn’t have anything more/better to offer than the village pulperias (family run convenience shops). 

My Airbnb was only one minute from the orange painted church, right on the border of ‘downtown’ and residential area giving me access to both worlds. It was pure joy sitting on my very own private deck in the breeze (or lying in a hammock), catching up on my writing and (remote) social life but (above all) enjoying the people watch while observing the colorful real-life pass by in front of my eyes. Oh, what a treat that was.  

The barking dogs, crowing roosters, and cackling hens never miss a wake-up call. Some people wake up some don’t. One gets used to the noise after a while. If not, turn up the fan a notch. Once the locals are up, they sit in their pajamas on the street drinking coffee and chatting with each other. Vendors walk the streets selling anything from home-cooked meals to toilet paper, from underwear to full-size matrasses, even Christmas gifts. Every morning a milkman riding a horse and carriage arrives at your door selling fresh milk. A couple of hours later trash truck comes and so does bulky refuse collector. Easy life. Unless you want to, there is no need to leave the house to go shopping as everything can be delivered right to your door. Why go to the market if the market can come to you?

The downtown, the full three-four square blocks of it is rather sleepy during the day but fills up after the sunset. Barefoot backpackers go partying and drinking one dollar beer while locals take their kids to the park in front of the church for some fun and games.

To my surprise, there are hardly any stray dogs walking the streets and no cats at all. Another surprise was a funeral procession which I mistook for the carnival party. Pop music on full blast followed by a cheerful crowd. If not for the hearse leading the procession, I’d think they were all celebrating.

There are minimum 1.500 expats in the community (could be many more) living typical expat life; setting up new businesses, starting new families or just enjoying retirement. Americans, Canadians, British, German, even few Swedes. As anywhere else in the world they meet for trivia on Mondays, brunch on Sundays, some other activity some other day. In fact, bar owners organize various expat activities every single day.

Regardless of our perception of the world, things do work even in the third world countries. Free clinic in the village is appreciated by locals, expats, and tourists. Likewise free yoga classes and pool access in town’s fanciest hotel. Water, electricity and internet work pretty well – most of the time. All parks provide free wi-fi and free electrical sockets. The power outages do happen but not that often and not for long. Instead of air-con, drafty Nicaraguan (and Costa Rican) houses provide more than enough natural breeze. 

And talking about the breeze. I used(?) to love breeze and wind. Sitting on a speedboat embracing the wind was(still is?) one of my great pleasures. I am afraid the ‘generous winds’ of Central America might have changed all that. I got more, much more than what I bargained for. The freezing cold wind roaring 24-7 through Central Valley in Costa Rica blew me out of the country. The stormy, 24-7 breeze in San Juan del Sur no longer feels pleasantly cooling but makes me wonder ‘will it ever stop?’  Too much of a good thing…

Not sure if it is the windy season or, it is just the way it is but right now the winds never stop. What a pity, for the Nicaraguan weather  – warm with moderate humidity – could have been perfect if it wasn’t for the gusty winds. However, on a positive note – the surfers must love it, I guess.

Oh yes, almost forgot. The surfing and the beaches. San Juan del Sur is a beach town. In other words, there is a beach in town. But hardly any surfers. In fact, there is hardly anyone on the beach and even fewer people in the water. Black muddy sand and blackish looking cold Pacific waters don’t look so inviting. Not exactly a paradise. (I know I am spoiled.) So the beach is primarily used as a happy hour (followed by ladies night) hung out where backpackers and locals come to party and to drink themselves silly in one of many beach restaurants and bars. (Talking of which … do you know most Costa Rican men drink smoothies with their restaurant meal as opposed to beer or other alcoholic beverage?) 

If you like to surf you need to take a 5 USD shuttle (open pickup truck) to the Maderas Beach 30-minute ride away. But if you like white sandy beaches and crystal clear warm water you need to go to the Caribbean side of Central American countries as there isn’t one along the Pacific. (Not of paradise quality.)

San Juan del Sur

The Maderas Beach