May 2016 in Vang Vien, Laos
Somewhere in the jungle, beyond 7 hills and 7 rivers lies Vang Vieng
There are places and there are places. And then there are … places. I will never know how come I’d never heard of Vang Vieng but I hadn’t. Perhaps I don’t quite fit the age group that typically visits this place or perhaps a ‘good girl‘ like myself doesn’t do things like ‘that‘. Who knows.
Have you ever heard of tubing? Neither had I, Until recently that is – the age group again, I guess.
Have you ever heard of river jumping? Well, I remember reading something about canal jumping in Holland ages ago. But river rope jumping? In Asia? In Laos? In Vang Vieng? Never.
How about party river? Not that either? A rather new concept to me too. Especially in Asia. People in Asia live on and off rivers. For millions and millions of people, the rivers are their only means of survival. The rivers house them, feed them, keep them (hmm) clean, transport them. The river is life itself. So who in their ‘right mind‘ would turn the source of life into a party playground? In Vang Vieng, they did just that. And … made a living out of it in the process.
I must be of a stone age for all of my ‘boat people’ (my co-travelers the downstream Mekong) not only knew all about that gem hidden in the jungle but were also on the route there. And what did I do? I followed the pack. So glad I did for Vang Vieng is one of the most unique places I ever visited and the world’s most unlikely party town. There is no other place like Laotian Vang Vieng. And btw there is no other place like Laos. (Laos together with Myanmar are the most fascinating places).
It took a minibus four hours to get from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng. Mostly, the road went through the mountains and was bad. I imagine the road must be a sliding nightmare during rainy season as it was also steep and slippery due to the small marble like stones rolling off the mountains.
The weather was good, no rain, yet it felt like we were bombarded by hailstones. And yes, we were. But it wasn’t the icy type hitting the van from above but the stony one hitting us from below. The driver was speeding so fast that the van was showered with stones cracking the windows and damaging an almost new van. We tried to slow him down but he wouldn’t listen. He didn’t care. Or maybe he was just trying to give us an introduction to what was waiting ahead.
Vang Vieng is Mecca for adrenaline junkies and party lovers. Vang Vieng is also the place where most Westerners lose their lives while vacationing. A couple of years ago twenty-four tourists never made it back home. Ever since the town is trying to clean up their act by imposing various restrictions on most dangerous activities.
So what is tubing? It is a bar hopping. On the river.
Along the river incl few islands, there are many stations (bars) set up. The thrill/challenge is to ‘raft’ the river in a tire tube stopping by as many stations as only possible to refuel, that is drink unlimited pints of beer or other alcoholic beverages. The price is fixed and includes a tube, unlimited drinks, and transport upstream to the starting point.
You start at the top and go down the stream stopping at some or all stations on the way. Up to you. You stay as long/short as you like depending on the company you meet. Fun people require longer encounter, not so fun people and you head to the next station. If you cannot make it to the station due to strong currents or alcohol consumption or whatever else it is the station owner’s duty to fish you out and pull you in for another refill. Some bars, primarily the ones on the islands and the ones that were too hazardous to get to are shut down today in compliance with the cleanup operation. By 6 p.m. everyone needs to be back in town to return the tube in time and avoid penalties … and the party continues. On or in the river.
Nam Song river is not the Mekong, at least not in Vang Vieng. Maybe 50 meters wide (if even that) and shallow. You can easily wade from one bank to another. Or you can cross over on a bamboo bridge. On one side of the river, there are (mostly) hotels lined up and on the other bank there are party river ‘booths’ where you eat, drink and socialize. In short, party. The bars are open as long as there are customers. You can order food or bring your own. The latter is popular with locals – cheaper, I guess. They come, the whole pack, from Vientiane (capital town) and party during weekends sleeping in their cars which their park right in the river.
I spend almost every evening in one of those booths and found them … absolutely wonderful. The most fantastic, relaxing, ageless and laid back form of socializing. I’d recommend it anytime to anyone.
So now that you have heard of Vang Vieng come and visit. You may be surprised. You may have the best time of your life … keep a watchful eye on your adrenaline seeking kids though.
