Overland border crossing to Laos, part 1 - Chiang Mai and Chiang Khong : One way ticket to Paradise

last days of April 2016

Bangkok Airline, one of the airlines operating Yangon – Chiang Mai route

One highlight in traveler’s everyday life is meeting other travelers and exchange information, experiences, stories, gossip and above all socialize with kindred souls. On one such occasion, I met an Australian couple – world travelers who have been ‘everywhere‘ and have seen ‘everything‘. Their best travel experience and the one they cannot forget was a two day one night trip downstream Laotian Mekong to Luang Parang. The second I heard their story all I wanted was – me too, me too I want too.

Laos was my next destination anyhow. Influenced by other travelers’ stories I had already decided not only to cross the border overland but also do it on foot as the experience of pushing my pink suitcase across a (friendly) bridge between the two countries was too irresistible. How romantic is that on a scale? Full pot. What I didn’t figure out yet was whether I’ll be entering the country from the South or North nor did I know which bridge I’ll be crossing. The Australian couple advised me to take a slow boat downstream to Luang Parang via Chiang Khong crossing. I followed their advice. Eventually.

Due to ongoing unrest, foreigners may not travel on land in various parts of Myanmar including the one bordering Laos. This in effect shuts down all border checkpoints making the land crossing all but impossible. There is a rumor, however, a friendship bridge between the two countries will open soon, but so far, it is only a rumor. As of May 1, 2016, there was still no bridge hence crossing to Laos overland from Myanmar was not possible. Chiang Khong, I mentioned earlier is not in Myanmar but in Thailand. And so is the bridge. To travel overland from Myanmar to Laos, I needed to go to Thailand first.

Do you know Bangkok Airline is first? boutique airline?

Land travels aside, there is no restriction as far as flying is concerned. Thus, the easiest way to get to the Chiang Khong border from Inle, which was my starting point, was to fly to a Burmese border town called Tachileik and do the crossing to Thailand from there. The crossing dividing two countries is a tiny river one can wade. The crossing is also a marketplace where one can buy everything. And I mean everything.

Sunrise at Yangon airport

I should and perhaps would have taken this way if not for … Chang Mai. I wanted to follow my Australian friends’ footsteps in detail and head for the border from the Northern capital of Thailand – Chang Mai. So, instead of making it easy for myself I chose more complicated and time-consuming alternative instead – a night bus (my first ever) to Yangon and then a flight from there to Chiang Mai. Long, tiring trip I don’t plan on repeating.

Chiang Mai

My hotel pickup. Not only they misspelled my name but also called me Mr. (so I deliberately ‘shamed’ him)

(Thailand wasn’t even on my original itinerary yet it is the second time I end up in Thailand during my SEA tour. Thailand is a very convenient place to travel from/to most destinations.)

After months of filth, disgust, sidewalks full of deadly potholes, rats, stray dogs Chiang Mai was like a breath of fresh air. Clean, paved, full of charming even picturesque bars and small romantic restaurants, art galleries, and classy designer boutiques selling clothes that one could actually buy and wear.

Pool in Duangtawan Hotel, my home away from home

What differs Chiang Mai from any other city I visited is that the town appears to be sleeping during the day and live at night. Most bars and restaurants are closed during the day. Only a few places and some boutiques are open – as are million 7-11s and pharmacies. Streets are almost deserted. Even tourists are nowhere to be seen, presumably ‘hiding’ in hotel pools.

At about 4 p.m. the town wakes up and daily activities begin; stalls are being raised, street vendors are showing up in the streets and people fill up 7-11s queuing up for their morning coffee. The town is waking up and getting ready to welcome a new day. By 5 p.m. streets fill up with people and vendors. By 6 p.m. the commerce is in full swing. The night market opens, and the town is ready for business.

One of many lovely shops

The market offers local craft and art side by side with food and fake Havaianas (of superb quality) and everything else in between. The commerce must do pretty well … considering hundreds upon hundreds ATMs in the area. Four or more clustered together every few meters. I have never ever seen that many ATMs in one place.

Chiang Mai has become an attractive place for expats and tourists alike. Quite many expats have made Chiang Mai their permanent home. Also, most tourists are .. tourists … not as many old solo men looking for whatever they cannot find at home as in other places but families with young children and couples of all ages.

Chiang Khong

The bus ride from Chiang Mai to the border town of Chiang Khong took four hours. Almost all tourists that come to town are on their way to/from Laos. It used to be a great meeting hub for backpackers and other travelers. Not that many stops today. The majority don’t even drive through but head directly towards the bridge that is a few kilometers from the town.

My home away from home. Laos on the other side of the river

The town is slowly dying. What a pity. For Chiang Khong is one of a kind. So unique.

There is something special about this place. Cannot put my finger on what it is but whatever it is it made me feel good.

If you ever want to take a break from the world, get ‘lost’ for a while and let no one find you or take refuge come to Chiang Khong and look for whatever you’re missing or looking for.

I stayed 3 days in the village and could easily have stayed a few more. But I also felt the time had come to cross that bridge.