The magic of unforgettable Inle Lake

April 206 in Inle Lake, Myanmar

If there is only one place, you can visit in Myanmar this is it. Inle Lake is one of the most magical places in the world and a must-see site. The magical scenery, magical light, fascinating inhabitants, mesmerising sunsets, delightful freedom of cruising enjoyed from an exotic boat ‘sailing’ on full power into the wind on a sunny (or not) day are only few ingredients that contribute to the magic and create special and unforgettable memory of this special and unforgettable place. Out of 50+ places I visited during my SEA journey, there is only one I’d like to revisit and this is Inle Lake.

My pink suitcase gets loaded on JJ Express

You can get there by train, bus or even plane (Heho Airport). I took JJ Express from Bagan to Nyaungshwe. Perfect service, perfect drivers, perfect bus. And the perfect price, some 7 USD. But above all perfect destination for both mind and soul. If you’d like the whole package and also treat your body with exercise prior to medicating your soul and mind stop at hot and popular Kalaw first (70 km from the lake) and do some trekking.

As in Mandalay, all tourists need to pay tourist tax upon arrival. Tax in Inle is, however, lower – 10 USD as opposed to 25 USD in Mandalay. 

Inle Lake is a highland lake, 900 meters above sea level some 22 km long and 10 km wide, surrounded by two mountain ranges. Its inhabitants are various ethnic tribes, such as ‘long-necked’ women from Padaung tribe or fishermen from the Intha tribe known for their unique fishing technique. 

Life on and around the lake is both fascinating and captivating. People live in houses on stilts on numbered ‘streets’ in named water villages that also house temples, schools, shops, and restaurants. 

With no roads to speak of, locals and visitors alike get around in narrow wooden boats. Boats transporting locals and visitors are identical, the latter ones, however, are equipped with chairs, umbrellas, life vests and take only 5 passengers while the former ones lack that comfort and take as many people as they can fit. You can, if you like, take one of those boats but they only go from point A to B – like buses. If you like to do the whole lake, you need to hire a boat.

“Boat terminal” under the bridge

All boats leave from feeder channel located right in the town center. The channel is few kilometers long and connects the town with the lake. It takes about 20 minutes to get to the lake. You can let travel agent or hotel organize the trip for you and fall into a tourist trap or just walk to the bridge and “do the lake” your way to your convenience and leisure. The town is tiny, so no matter where you are at it shouldn’t take more than a short stroll to get to the bridge.

Sadly, Inle Lake is becoming a tourist trap of Vietnamese Al Ain’s proportion. Trips organized by hotels/agents are half day or whole day tours departing at 8 a.m. ‘This is when all boats leave‘, they’ll tell you – which is not true. Then they’ll take you to some 6 workshops (read shops) on a half-day tour and still more on whole-day tour. Most of the workshops are specifically set up for tourists and their only purpose is to help visitors part with their money. After the shopping spree, you will lunch in a restaurant commissioned by hotel or agent. You can tell your boatman to skip this or that ‘attraction’ but most tourists are unaware of that possibility. 

Boatmen passing time while waiting for return of tourists

If you like to be in total control of what you visit where you eat and when you do it go down to the bridge and hire a boat by yourself. You can hire a boat on the spot or book for later, for as long as you like and visit only places you like to visit. Boat operators have a map of the lake with all attractions detailed. You pick only the ones you like to see. You can see them all or none and just cruise the lake. Up to you.  Some workshops can be interesting.  I found a workshop where women make silk out of lotus flowers fascinating but the major attraction were long-necked women and fishermen.

Most tours circle around the Northern part of the lake but if you have time do the whole lake, not in one day, 3 or 4 days would be ideal.

Felix, my partner in crime that I met on the bridge

The standard rate for a whole day trip is 15 USD per boat but you can try to haggle. Boats take 5 people. So gather a few co-travelers and share the cost. If you travel solo, come to the bridge and look for other solo travelers to share a boat with. Trips organized by agents/hotels have the same or higher price tag and are not negotiable.

I only dealt with boat operators themselves. An ideal time to start a whole day trip was (for me) just after the noon: that way I could avoid the morning mist and poor visibility as well as time the return during sunset.

As for the town itself? Nyaungshwe is tiny. But cute. Nothing much there, one street leading to the bridge and boats along which there are few bars offering happy hour drinks, restaurants and shops selling only junk food (chips and sodas). 

My wheels in Inle Lake

During my stay I experienced quite a few power cuts but as most hotels have own generators that wasn’t much of a problem.

Most hotels have also free bike rentals. Get on a bike and do sightseeing. Unfortunately, you cannot round the lake as there are no roads but you can bike into the countryside and discover other attractions and fantastic scenery. 

Inle Lake

People of Inle Lake

Fishermen of Inle Lake