It is not as if she has never heard of altitude.

It is not as if she has never heard of altitude sickness.

It is not as if she didn´t know of the importance of altitude acclimatization.

It is not …

Oh yes, she knew it all. Yet, this know-it-all world traveler (presumably), a well-educated and well-read fully grown woman, ignored all her wisdom, not to mention common sense and reason, and let it all fly out the window as though there were no tomorrow. Seriously, what could possibly go wrong? What could possibly happen to her? Definitely not to her. She can take on any challenge. After all, she is invincible. And by the way, doesn’t altitude sickness and/or any other altitude-related emergency only happen to mountaineers, the world’s highest mountain climbers at that, like Mount Everest?

Yet, only a few years ago, while visiting a “mere” mile-high city of Denver (5,130–5,690 ft – 1,564–1,734 m), she heard people talk, and she heard stories about the effects mile-high elevation might have. Not only on visitors but also on locals. Just last year in Fort Collins, CO, she was telling anybody and everybody who cared to listen how glad she was spending time in the city and thereby getting acclimatized for higher altitudes to which she was heading shortly – a plan that was sadly crushed by COVID.

She wasn’t going to let it happen again – let something or even someone crash her plans. So when a window of opportunity opened about a month ago, without as much as a second thought and definitely none regarding elevation, altitude, or acclimatization, she jumped on the first available airplane and flew from NYC to the second-highest capital city in the world – Quito in Ecuador. From 33 feet (10 m) right up to 9,350 ft (2,850 m). This, in itself, mustn’t necessarily mean a life-threatening situation or even trouble, danger, altitude sickness, or whatever else harmful… as long as you…

Remember where you are. Take it easy, give your body a chance, and take some precautions. Chilling is good, heaps of water (like 5 liters) are essential, carbs and dark chocolate are helpful, and observation is crucial. Listen to your body and do not take any chances. Descend if necessary. For most, the critical altitude point is 8,000 feet. At that elevation, most people require acclimatization.

If you play with fire you can get burnt

Altitude sickness can be life-threatening Don´t play with fire – Take the following steps

Train high-altitude breathing techniques prior to departure. Search Youtube There are some pills you can start taking prior to arrival. Search for them Take it very easy after arrival Use sunscreen. You´re some 3000 meters closer to the sun. The last thing you want is to get sunstroke on top of altitude sickness Wear a hat  Drink liters of water Drink matte de coca, preferably brewed from fresh coca leaves. If not available, use 2 tea bags of whatever brand you can find. Sold only at the local markets. “Naturista” stores may also have it. Some cafes run by Peruvians usually serve it Eat dark chocolate Eat carbs Take Paracetamol for headaches Buy Glaucomed Acetazolamida for altitude sickness, take one in the morning and one in the evening Some 5-star hotels provide both matte de coca and oxygen. Some have even inhouse doctor Do not drink alcohol Descent to a lower altitude Alternatively, in rare situations depending on your condition, go higher up and then descent to where you were Visit a doctor.  Get an altitude app so that you know exactly how high you are. Always fun to have. I use “My Elevation” Free Coca leaves in an airport in Peru to help with altitude sickness. Photo: unknown

Oh yes, acclimatization. This insignificant detail together with whatever common sense she might have had (or not) slipped her mind completely. For not only did she forget to take any precautions whatsoever prior to the arrival, not only did she forget to take it very easy, drink liters of water and observe her body´s reaction to the “elements”, but she also did everything one (with a bit of brain) must never ever do during the first days or even weeks at this elevation. Like power walking 16 kilometers (10 miles) carrying camera gear without any rest at all, no food, and above all no water. All that and more on the very first day in the city that beats the critical altitude point by almost 1000 feet. Very smart. Bravo.

This is exactly what she did. Seven or so hours of speedy walking. And then she run up 3 flights of stairs to her room and had a glass of wine. A big NO-NO. Of course, she was tired. A bit. But other than that? All good. So she continued. Day number 2 wasn´t as “eventful” as the previous one – nonetheless, she was exploring the hilly streets of Quito. Up and down, up and down. The elevation thingy didn´t even cross her mind. Not for a second. (After all, she spent a good few weeks in Bogota (8661 feet, 2640 m) which is only 200 meters (656 feet) lower than Quito, doing the very same activities and had no problems. As a matter of fact, nobody ever mentioned elevation in Bogota. Not once, not in any capacity).

Days 2 and 3 have passed without any issues. Due to bad weather, she slowed down a bit but was still quite active. However, she hardly drank any water during those days. Day 4 was the first sunny day and quite hot. She took a stroll around the neighborhood. Walking some 3000 meters closer to the sun without a hat it felt like walking under a fireball. Sun at that elevation is not for tanning. Hot, thirsty, and tired, she went back to the hotel, and for the first time in her life, she experienced shortness of breath. Someone advised her to sip on Matte de coca, drink plenty of water, and eat dark chocolate. She complied, minus matte de coca which she couldn´t find in the supermarket. To compensate for that she bought two bars of dark chocolate.

She wasn’t sure whether it was night 4 or 5 when things got serious. Maybe even outright dangerous. Undoubtedly she was suffering from something – was it altitude sickness or something worse? By then, she did do some reading about the matter and refused to even think about “something worse”. Everything will be alright, won’t it? Her lungs felt squeezed by some imaginary powers, her hands and fingers were tingling, her heart was whispering something she didn´t want to hear, she couldn’t walk up the stairs, she was exhausted, she lost all her appetite, her energy level was non-existent, even her teeth were hurting, and she couldn’t sleep. Insomnia hit her and hit her hard. As soon as she lay down, her lungs were about to collapse. Or so it felt. She couldn’t breathe at all. Panic. She was doing the best she could to convince herself to relax and breathe, slowly, slowly, breathe, expel, one more time, breathe, expel … give it a minute or 30 seconds, 15 then … it will calm down. It will. Two seconds later, she was up. Her head started playing tricks on her when lying down, and she couldn´t control it. So she stayed up. (Could it be a glimpse of how covid sufferers feel?) Awful stuff and very scary. She didn´t sleep for three nights.

Matte de Coca

Oh yes, she should have gone to lower altitudes right away. She didn´t. It didn´t even cross her mind. Perhaps she was too tired. She stayed in bed waiting for the crisis to pass. She should have asked for help. She didn´t. She should have called for a doctor. She didn’t. There were other things she could or should have done. She didn’t do any of them. Instead, she went to a supermarket on a third day to buy coca tea. They didn’t have it. She went to the pharmacy to look for tea. No tea. But they had the pills. She bought the pills. After three sleepless nights, she fell asleep. At last.

Descent. Why don´t you? 

How dumb one can really get? She must have gone mad, why doesn´t she leave for lower elevation, as any, even moderately intelligent person would? Descent is the only way. Why? Why? Why indeed? Leave. Go. Run. What are you waiting for?

Well, not always things are black and white. (Or maybe they are and we just mess them up.) Just before the crisis, or maybe on the day of she committed to … a cat sit … (yes, you read it right – cat sit) and felt she couldn´t break the commitment, wouldn´t even know how to do it. Leaving wasn´t even an option, or so she felt at the time. Always optimistic. Give it a day or two and it will go over, she thought. Of course, it will. It must. It always does, doesn´t it? She refused to think of any other outcome. She´ll be good as new in a matter of days. She wasn´t. 

Eventually, she got a couple of gray cells functioning and she did leave. There was no other choice if her condition was to improve. Not very far though. Only to Cumbaya, a valley some 20 minutes cab ride from the city.  A real-life saver as it lies 450 meters (1500 feet) lower than Quito. It was in Cumbaya that she patiently waited for her cat-sit-gig to begin.

The taxi ride back to the city was mentally challenging. The altitude app was only going up up up and up. The Cumbaya stay was a smart move but not smart enough. She should have traveled to even lower altitudes (and stayed there). She was better but not fully recovered. Far from it.

During the 13-day pet-sit stay in Quito, she was in survival mode, exhausted and sleepy. Idle running. Living in a twilight zone somewhere over the rainbow (or rather above clouds). Staying at home most of the time cuddling the kitty. Conveniently she was staying in a residential area on the top of a steep hill, 2844 meters (9339 feet) above the sea, with no grocery shops and no restaurants. Occasionally she had to inch 0.4 miles down the hill to shop and eat but (as not to risk anything) always took a cab back. If she only could ditch that killer mask. Ah, that would be the day. And she was waiting, and waiting, and waiting. Waiting for the day she could leave for lower altitudes. For good this time. She will never find her paradise in Quito. Waterfront in Lima looks lovely. Three days to go.

And the kitty? Sweetest, cuddliest, and most patient kitty in the world that wouldn´t leave her side. Wherever she went the kitty went. Not much of a kitty really but a senior cat with serious medical conditions who required seven meds a day (all of them syringed into the mouth) and liquids every other day that took 10 agonizing minutes to inject. And he hated them all. It was a real challenge. Almost mission impossible for one inexperienced sitter. She managed the meds but needed assistance with the liquids. Not to inject but to hold and pet the cat. All she could think of were meds, meds, and meds anxiously searching Youtube for alternative ways to administrate them, how to hide them, which treats to use, what cat-tv to play for distraction, and what music to play for calmness. Enjoyment for the kitty but stress and anxiety for her. No ideal situation for her already fragile condition. In addition, the kitty loved to sleep on her chest which was not ideal for her lungs. Oh well, no complaints, she asked for it. She got it. The cat loved it and that´s all that mattered. They really bonded. Hopefully, he had the time of his life with this crazy lady, a.k.a. moi.

And the silver lining? Isn´t there always one in every story?

Oh yes, I believe there is one. Maybe even two. After two? three? years of writer´s block I have managed to write this post and enjoyed doing it. Bravo to me. My only hope is it will not take another two years for the next one. Unfortunately, I cannot attach nice Quito pictures – there aren´t any. Spend most of my time at home. Walking was very difficult. Carrying a camera was impossible. 

Then there is also the booster shot. Ecuadorian Health Authorities provided one for me as they did for everybody incl tourists. So generous of them. Much appreciated.

Furthermore, I am hoping that this health emergency, which consequences are far from over, has thought me a lesson. That I, like everybody else, am not invincible. That letting life-saving advice in potentially life-threatening situations slip my mind is not acceptable and right out heights of stupidity, but above all, I am hoping that my stupidity hasn´t caused too much permanent damage … for I fear it wasn´t just altitude sickness I suffered/suffer from but also dyspnea.

Suma Summarum: Maybe, just maybe not all commitments are unbreakable. 

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It took, however, hundreds, maybe even thousands visited destinations, in 100+ countries to find the one. The one that is (imho) not only the worst travel destination in the world but also the most boring one. 

Puzzling vlogs

To get an idea of what to expect at my travel destination once I get there as well as in which part of town I should be looking for accommodation I like to watch, in this day and age, youtube vlogs.

Typically I find more information than I can digest. Not this time though. With the exception of a couple of short video footage in which the vloggers enthusiastically and respectfully tour the two landmarks, the destination has to offer there was practically no information at all.

Even though such a shortage of information is unusual, even though such a shortage of landmarks is exceptional I didn’t give it much thought. Even though the vlogs weren’t”over the top” they weren’t critical either. Perhaps the large crowds haven’t discovered the destination yet? All good then? Surely there must be something interesting to stumble on, there always is. After all, this is not an abandoned “hole in the wall” in the middle of nowhere but a capital city in Europe. So, off I went. 

The most boring city in the world

How I wish I didn’t. How I wish I could at least shorten my stay to the bare minimum. But I couldn’t. I had to stay and wait at my prearranged destination for the arrival of my new credit card. So I waited and waited and waited. For 7 days. I had seven long days to thoroughly embrace all “sounds and sights” surrounding me. Not once, not twice but multiple times.

And what a sight it was. No matter where I went, no matter which corner I turned, no matter how positive and open-minded I tried to be I found no beauty, no charm, nothing of interest that would wake my curiosity or stimulate my discovery streak.  Nada. 

All I saw was gloomy, badly lit, patchily paved, full of holes, rolling-luggage unfriendly streets and a forest of Soviet-style, black gray and run-down buildings that haven’t seen a fresh coat of paint or any other maintenance for that matter since the day they were built.   They just stood there waiting to collapse. And collapse they will as there was no visible promise for any improvement in sight. No cranes, no construction, no hope. Sad and depressing.

The landmark(s)

The two landmarks on offer, a bridge, and a cathedral, were not as hype as the courteous vlogger wanted me to believe. Not even close. (The pictures here do not tell the true story.)

The bridge was just a regular bridge. Nothing unique, nothing special, nothing extra, not even lit at night. How is it a ‘landmark’ in the first place is beyond me.

Truth be told, the cathedral was also a great disappointment. It has potential though. If only the town painted the exteriors and cleaned up the surroundings it might have even been quite impressive. It was almost painful to see it stripped down from its former glory standing on a huge empty field filled with paddles and rubbish. Sad and depressing

The people

There are hardly any tourists in town. The few that come, come for a few hours only en route to the seaside resort Kotor which btw was also my original plan that I foolishly abandoned thinking the post office in a capital town would be more efficient than in a small one that is more less shut down for the season. Oh well.

The inhabitants, just like the buildings, appear to be gloomy, tired and worn out. There is hardly any interaction between the people. No smiles, No cheers. The favorite color is gray and black. The favorite food is buns with different fillings which I personally don’t care much for – they all taste the same to me. Everybody (like anywhere else in the Balkans) is chain-smoking. Sad and depressing.

The buzz

What buzz? With the exception of one restaurant street, where few younger locals gather to eat, drink and chain smoke I found the city lacking city vibe, deprived of vibrant buzzing life with nothing to see or do. Sad, depressing and boring.

The most boring travel destination in the world – the big reveal

So which lucky destination is the one?

The one that took me decades to find? The one I so generously granted the privilege of being not only my worst but also the most boring destination in the world?

The prize goes to … none other than the capital town of Montenegro – Podgorica.

What is your worst travel destination? 

p.s.1 how I wish the vloggers would stop sugar-coating the reality and tell it as it really is.

p.s.2 Apparently I am not the only one who found Podgorica the most boring town in the world.

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If there is anything locals and visitors to a ten million (plus) Colombian capital city,  Bogota, can always count on; it is: 

1. The sun only shines in Bogota in the mornings – before 1 p.m.
2. Each Sunday morning and early afternoon Ciclovía takes place in the city – a reclaim the streets type of event attracting up to 2 million bikers, runners, and skaters. (The event is also organized during public holidays and in other cities.) 

The Sunday of March 18th wasn’t any different from other Sundays. The sun was shining (it was only 12 p.m.), Cyclovia was underway and the city center was filled with attendees, their supporters, tourists and plenty of “regular’ people. Armed police were everywhere, both city police and tourist police, keeping an eye on the event and the city at large.

After some two hours of shooting the newly restored Centro Historico, I found myself at the Bolivar Square – the main square of Bogotá.

The square was jam-packed with people, both tourists and locals alike, and millions of pigeons. The kids were playing and passers-by were feeding the pigeons. The herd of bikers was cycling on a bike path leading to/from the square almost overrunning tourists unaware of the event. There were so many of them that the whole procession looked like a pilgrimage or an army of ants working the path to/from their colony.  They were all going to/from one direction. Thinking there might be an interesting event going on around the corner I followed the bikers.  And yes (as I found out later), during Ciclovía, there are many sporting events like yoga organized on numerous plazas and in parks across the city.

I couldn’t have walked more than a block, one and a half at the most and was just about to turn back when I felt as if someone walking behind me ‘tapped’ my shoulder. Not very hard but it was a tap/hit, nonetheless. Instantly and without any confirmatory visuals, I KNEW exactly what it was. All my senses went on the highest alert and I remember thinking; “Oh no, this is not happening, it can’t be. No way”. But it was.. this is exactly what was happening…

On a bright sunny day, at noon, in the middle of the city full of people, in the presence of an army of policemen – I was about to get mugged.

Bogotá was not on my itinerary at all. As a rule, I avoid large capital cities of Central and South America. The larger the city the more poverty and consequently the more problems (read danger), especially for a female solo traveler. In fact, not only Bogota but also Colombia was not on my itinerary either… until one day. The day I happened to see a photograph of Cartagena. From then on Cartagena had become my travel destination number one. Cartagena was all I could think of. I had to see Cartagena. Period. So I went. Via Bogota, as direct flights to Cartagena were crazily expensive.

And there I was, in Bogota, I never wanted to visit, right in the city center, maybe 100 meters from Bolivar Plaza, amongst thousands of people and police on every single corner yelling for help in broad daylight.

There were two of them. They must have been following me. They saw me taking pictures and putting the camera into a shoulder bag made of cloth that was ‘nonchalantly’ hanging on my right shoulder. An easy target. Silly woman “giving papaya” (local slang for an easy target). Just grab a bag and run – they must have thought.

They grabbed the bag (the tap on the shoulder); the bag tore and its content fell out. But not the camera. It stayed put where it should. On a sling across my body.  This is how I always carry my camera in less friendly countries – on a sling across my body. The bag is only a ‘camouflage’, a hiding pouch so that I don’t need to have it on full display when I am not shooting.

This must have put them off guard. The easy target (snatch and run) wasn’t so easy after all. 

All victim accounts I read say the same thing: “I had no idea what hit me. I didn’t see it coming. I didn’t even have the time to blink my eye, everything went so quick.” This was not my experience. On the contrary. Ever since the very first contact (shoulder tap/hit), all my senses went on full alert. and I knew exactly what was happening; I knew exactly what I was doing, and I was even having discussions with myself as to how to proceed. It is amazing how many different thoughts a human mind can process during “a blink of the eye”. 

Once the thieves understood what had happened they tried to pull the strap off my body. My strategy was to hold on to the sling and yell for help. Buy time. After all, there were so many people around,  someone must hear/see and come to the rescue. The seconds were ticking but none came. The thieves (undoubtedly) picked the best timing possible. When nobody was around.

The only advice ever given to victims in my situation is: 

1. Don’t surprise the thieves as they may become unpredictable (I have already done that – the sling) 
2.  Let “it” go. They may have a gun, or worse. It isn’t worth it. 

It was worth to me. More than you can imagine. Had I only had another second or two... Weighing all the pros and cons,… I had “upper hand”, I sat on the ground, it is easier to pull from below sitting than from above standing, just give me one more second… but what about that guy behind me, I couldn’t see him, he was also pulling the sling. I wasn’t scared at all. I’ll hold on for as long as it takes. A plan. I thought. Simultaneously, ‘other voices’ were talking to me, trying to convince me to be ‘smart’ and follow the ‘good advice’.

Unwillingly but consciously I began to let go – slowly, very slowly, inch by inch, shopping for time to the very end, while debating with myself whether it was the right thing to do.

They run off. With my camera. Watching them disappear into a narrow alley I also seemed to have noticed, from the corner of my eye, a biker chasing after them. Strangely, this only made me angry. “Now? It is too late now. You should have been here 1 second ago”. But, perhaps it was only my imagination playing tricks on me. I couldn’t be sure. 

The strangest thing of all… while warching them disappear with my camera I didn’t feel that killing emptiness and razor sharp pain one feels when losing beloved… anything really… but felt more like an observer watching a movie. Even though I was abolutly sure that was the end of the story… I was an extra in a movie. 

Still stranger, before leaving my hotel I took more precautions than ever. As if my gut feeling was trying to warn me. Left my cell and everything else I didn’t need. I even wanted to switch the lens to one that was less visible and cheaper (which never happened before). Unfortunately, I didn’t bring the kit lens with me (I am trying to travel ‘light’) and had only 50 mm prime as a backup – not so great for the cityscape shots.

All these extra preaucations as if I felt something was about to happen. All I had with me was maybe 10 USD in local currency, umbrella and a bottle of water. And a camera. 

So now WHAT? To put insult into the injury, I had my camera cleaned in Cancun only two days before and two weeks prior had the faulting zoom in my lens repaired. Collecting my camera from the repairman (yet another gut feeling) I was thinking… If anything is to happen… now is the time.  And so it was. Indeed.

Two days later, I let it all go. Perhaps I shouldn’t have. Perhaps I shouldn’t have listened to that other voice. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so smart. Too late now.

Shamed by my own stupidity (my first mugging) with a tail between my legs I began picking up contents of my bag (umbrella, water bottle) that was scattered on the ground and was just about to head back to my hotel to not-sure-what-to-do when a young female biker approached me. 

She thought I should report the incident to the police which ironically was only 50 meters away. Police? She must be joking. What can they do? Do they even care? The thieves are far away and the camera is sold a long time ago. But not having anything better to do and feeling like a fool I flowed her. The policeman directed us to a police booth located further down the square.  Once again, I hesitated… what a waste of time. But then again I thought – what’s the alternative? Sitting alone in my hotel room sulking about the lost camera? I went. 

After the initial confusion (we communicated through Google translator) I understood they caught someone. Aha? What that someone had to do with me? I couldn’t see any connection. They didn’t know anything about the camera though. Once I told them they began to interrogate the guy. After only a few seconds not only the connection was established but he also confessed to stealing my camera (???!!!). However, he didn’t have it, nor did he know where it was. He gave it to the other guy, he said. Of course, he didn’t know who the other guy was. 

Why did they catch him and on what grounds did they arrest him I will never know. But maybe I shouldn’t be asking.  It appears, however, that the biker I thought I saw from the corner of my eye was real and it was him who must have caught the thief. (Imagine if I only held on to the sling for two more seconds.)

I spend at least an hour and a half (including a ride in a police car to my hotel to get the passport) in that tiny police booth. Some five, six policemen on duty were the nicest and friendliest people imaginable offering me water and chocolate all the time and generally making sure I was okay. At one point they showed me a knife and asked if I was ever threatened with one. I am not sure if it was just a knife they showed me or the knife they found on the thief. They also told me I have ventured into a no-go zone. A no-go zone right next to Bolivar Plaza? Hmmm, I remembered someone trying to warn me just when I was about to enter the area but I didn’t understand. I don’t speak Spanish. 

Next stop was a real police station.  For me and the thief. I had to make a statement and he was to be booked. 30-40 minute ride in two separate cars. Upon arrival, I was greeted by Patrullero Jeison Florez. 

Patrullero Jeison Florez

Patrullero Jeison Florez with Tourist Police in Bogota spoke English and didn’t leave my side during the four-hour stay at the station. Not that I have any experience with the police, Colombian or otherwise, but he must be the nicest and gentlest and most carrying policeman in the world. He desperately wanted me to like Colombia and to understand that majority of Colombians are just like him. Generous, friendly, giving and carrying. 

At one point he went to the thief to speak with him. The thief stuck to his story. He didn’t know where the camera was nor who the other guy was. Patrullero Jeison gave it a bit of time and tried again. After the second attempt when the thief understood it may cost him two extra years in jail, he suggested calling his sister. She may know who the other guy was, he said. And she did. Not only did she know the other thief she also found him, succeeded to recover the camera and was now on the way to the station to return it in the belief that once she has done so her thief brother would be set free. 

No. No Way. I don’t believe you. Impossible. Things like that just do not happen, not in Colombia, not anywhere in the world, I said to Jeison. Yes, it’s true – he replied. I didn’t want to get my hopes up and refused to believe him.

But it was. A few minutes later the sister came with my camera. And the sling. Intact. 

I left a statement. Even recorded a short video thanking Colombian Police for their efforts and amazing job in recovering my camera. Don’t remember exactly what I said but something about the impossible becoming possible. We hugged after that, said our goodbyes, and someone drove me back to the hotel. I am to contact Jeison right away should I need anything. Friends for life? Everybody was happy.

Everybody but the thief. He is in jail awaiting trial. He will get two years. Hadn’t the sister returned the camera he would get four. Don’t know if they ever caught the other thief. 

How Am I?

Glad you asked. To tell the truth – I don’t really know. Not yet. I am pretty much alright teasing myself “well done, you survived Bogota exactly two hours“, or, maybe I am in denial of some sort but my primal instincts are back on the radar (so do not come near me or touch me unexpectedly); I no longer take the camera wherever I go; neither do I shoot spontaneously but choose my objects/subjects with more care; not that I did it before but today I display the camera even less. My camera feels kind of dirty – not as pure anymore. My love for photography got bruised.

11 days have passed and I still haven’t mentioned the story to anybody. 

From the very beginning to the very end I was, without really knowing or expecting it, (unconsciously) waiting for a happy ending… though I knew there cannot be one. Things like that simply never happen. And definitely not in Colombia, the (former) number one most dangerous country in the world where no one cares about petty theft like that. (I hear additional funds were given to the police, and hundreds of extra policemen were put on the streets of Bogota to fight the crime.  The efforts have begun to give results.)

There is one thing I am absolutely sure about. The story wouldn’t (couldn’t) have a happy ending hadn’t I followed the bike lady to the police as I already had said goodbye to the camera the moment I let go of the sling. I must remember…

Never give up…  It ain’t over until it’s over. 

The (almost lost) Images of Centro Historico – slideshow

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Treehouse between Lisbon and Cascais

Nothing kills the fun of travel faster than ill-suited accommodation. You can try to accept the inapt residence during short(er) travels, however, you cannot ignore it when traveling long-term. Are you also a female who travels solo (perhaps searching for a retirement paradise) we are no longer talking about fun but a necessity as your choice of accommodation can make or break the success of your mission. And no, it is not due to the (eventual) lack of fluffy pillows, jacuzzi, 70-inch tv or other fancy amenities. The success or failure of your trip does not depend so much on how fancy the accommodation is but where it is located. Furthermore, its importance only escalates with time and becomes…

• crucial when you travel full-time as you no longer look for a bed for the night but a home base for a few weeks or even months
• critical once you reach a certain age (and are no longer part of a free supply of friends, iow the hostel scene)
• deal breaker if you are also a woman
• a question of life and no-life when you are all of the above and also travel solo as not only your security but more importantly your sanity and well-being (social life) will depend on it

So, where can a 60+ (or less), full-time solo female traveler stay safe and sane during her travels? This is a multi-layered question with underlying issues specific to the region as well as their influence on travelers’ personal life.

A peace of mind first

Central Park in Granada, Nicaragua

Location, location, location. As a long-term female solo traveler, the location is my priority number one. My security, sanity, and peace of mind, my social life – my life. Success or failure of my every trip begins and ends with where my home base is located.

The physical location (specific neighborhood) will vary from country to country but in general, there are two major factors that must be taken into consideration; safety and easy access to amenities and social life.

Let’s take Central America as an example. With an exception of the center of the city center, all Central American streets empty from all human existence at about 6 p.m., even earlier during winter months. Just after the sunset, once busy towns become ghost towns. No people strolling around and no cars driving by. Buu. The only company you may encounter are stray dogs. Walking home alone through deserted streets, even if it is only 100 meters and even if the street is so called “safe street”, feels very spooky and uncomfortable. The imagination goes wild. “Is someone hiding behind that tree?”, “Anyone hiding at the next corner?“, “Why is that door open? Anyone behind?“.

Central Park in Granada, Nicaragua

I may walk the deserted street once or twice upon my arrival when the curiosity and urge of exploring are at the highest peak. Already the second time I will walk, or rather jog, right in the middle of the street and keep all senses on the highest alert. But as soon as the novelty wears off and adrenalin rush kicks in I will stop walking/jogging and instead hurry home during the sunset subsequently saying goodbye not only to my love for night photography but also to my social life.

This is when home base ceases to be home away from home and becomes a prison.

location = number one

Loneliness

Breakfast for one

Loneliness during long-term travels is still somewhat of a tabu subject. But the sad truth is, longtime travel can be lonely. Very lonely. The longer you travel the more lonely it may become. Hence the possibility of rich social life, making new friends, meeting local expats and/or other travelers become (second) priority number one.

Travel slowly, the longer you stay at one location the better chance you have to boost your social life. (More on how to boost your social life)

location + social life = number one

Social Life = Location

Bantayan Island – A keeper

You don’t want to live at a location that isolates you and jeopardizes your social life and life in general. You don’t want to rush home like Cinderella before a certain time, but feel free to live your life the way you like; visit cafes, galleries, bars, and restaurants anytime you choose, run down to the store whenever you want/need to, even take an evening stroll should you fancy that.

You want to expose yourself to social life rather than hide away from it behind the security of gated communities in the suburbs a.k.a. “prison walls”. Instead, you want to expose yourself to life in general, to different cultures, to live as locals live (within limits). Isn’t it what traveling is all about? Isn’t it why you left your home country in the first place? 

A bike is my second choice of transportation

You may wonder – Why not take a taxi? That will solve all the problems? Sure you may – once in a while when you go to a special event – to which you’d take a taxi anyhow to skip having to hop the cobblestones in your high heels.

Taxis don’t work in a long run. Not for me. Not for a city girl used to having the whole city right at her door. I walk, bike, or eventually take taxi – in that very order.

I don’t want to have to always rely on taxis each time I need to go for a milk run, go on a date or run some other errands. It requires planning, kills spontaneity and fun, not to mention all the stress I’d rather avoid that haggling, wheeling and dealing with (Asian or Central/South American) taxi drivers bring upon me. I just want to run down to my convenience store or anywhere else anytime I choose without having to arrange transport and without having to feel uncomfortable someone might be following me if I don’t.

Freedom of (secure) movement is also my priority number one.

location + social life + freedom of movement = number one

Where to live then?

There where the streets are properly lit and walkable even after the sunset; where hotels, restaurants, bars and convenience stores are; where tourists party, expats meet, locals gather in the evening. So, where is that exactly?

Seminyak, well lit and walkable beach in Bali

Central Park

Right in the center of the town center if you travel through Central America. To feel secure, remain sane, move freely and be social you need to live in the center. Preferably right at or in a very near proximity to the Central Park. The proximity varies from town to town and could be anything between two and eight blocks.

Note: Central Parks are not really park-parks but main squares full of city buzz with stalls, markets, and even small Tivolis; social hubs where all towns’ activities take place, where locals gather in the evening to chill and where small kids come to play.

Central Park in Granada, Nicaragua. Again

All Central Americans cities and towns are built the same way – with Central Park right in the middle. Those central areas are pretty small, sometimes only a few blocks, thus make sure your accommodation is within “the city blocks”. Often only half a block can make all the difference.

In third world countries, the further distance from the city center, the poorer the neighborhoods. The poorer the neighborhood the more likely your camera gear or any other visible gadget may be the focus of unwanted local attraction.

Main Street

Hanoi, Vietnam – walkable city center

What about places where there is no Central Park, say in Asia? Main Street or streets work just as well. Go to Booking.com and look for hotels in town you’ll be visiting, Click on any hotel and then ‘Show map”. You’ll get a perfect view of where all hotels are located. Pick the largest cluster in areas marked with yellow – this is where you want to stay, especially when you are a 60+, full-time solo female traveler.

There is a perfect reason why all those hotels are clustered together in one place. The place is in a central location, hosting many landmarks, well lit, walkable, full of people, restaurants, bars, cafes and mini markets. This is the place popular with visitors and locals where you can easily meet other travelers, hang out and socialize. Above all, living here will allow you walking to/from your accommodation without feeling intimidated, uncomfortable or scared. It might be somewhat touristy but this is a small price to pay. Keep also in mind that touristy places are watched by private security companies, tourist police and regular police equipped with machine guns. Better one too many tourists than the lonely alternative of isolation… unless isolation is what you are looking for.

Do a search for best places to stay at your destination as well as the worst.  And remember what may work in one town doesn’t necessarily work in another. The secure central parts of Central America are anything but in South America. In fact, El Centro of many South American countries (as opposed to Central Parks in CA) is a no-go-zone. If you’re unsure join expat community on Facebook and find out where the expats live. Expats communities are typically the most secure parts of town. (But also the most expensive.)

What type of accommodation works best?

Yacht hotel in Gothenburg, Sweden

Clean bed, lamp, wifi, coffee maker and a bathroom with or without toiletries for a couple of nights is no longer enough for me.

I do not look for a bed for the night or two but a home base where I can stay for weeks and live a life as normal as only possible for as long as I like. No rush, travel slowly are the keywords. Two weeks per destination, longer if the home base feels more like home.

Nor do I look for a jacuzzi, room service, high def tv or any tv for that matter. What I need is a home away from home, office away from the office, a place where I can ‘put my hat’ even if it is only for a week. (And btw I don’t even own a hat, even though I should in this climate). Ideally, I am looking for a place with a sitting area, kitchenette, private bathroom with working plumbing and hot water (seldom provided in Central and South America), wifi, terrace/balcony, plenty of light and a few housemates. Right at or by the Central Park (if I am in CA).

Fine dining on the beach in Dubai.

As pictures, descriptions and even reviews on booking sites can sometimes be deceiving I only book for a couple of nights. If I like the place, I extend my stay. If not, I have two days to find something else which is quite an easy task as I am already at the location and can view properties of interest.

When you travel slowly, there is no rush to visit landmarks, go on tours or do other touristy things. Quite frankly all these things become secondary. Far more important is establishing a home base; checking out the neighborhood, corner grocery store, local community; unpacking suitcases; learning local lifestyle and assimilating to it. After all, I’ll be spending lots more time ‘at home’ than a regular visitor.

In fact, I’ll be spending much more time at home than I ever thought I would. Longtime traveling, packing & unpacking can be very tiring, mentally tiring, thus staying ‘at home’ doing simple sweet nothings (like boring ironing) can be very refreshing, energizing and nourishing. Essential for overall wellbeing. And also a crucial puzzle bit when the time comes to answering the most important existential question of them all “Is this place a place for me?” “Is this my retirement paradise”.

So what works best? All three alternatives described below work pretty well for me. And there is definitely no need to pick just one, I alternate between them according to my needs and what works best at a specific destination.

Hotels?

Hotel room in Sapa, Vietnam

It isn’ the fancy five stars hotel but a family-run small 20-30 bed boutique hotel that is the best option for 60+, full-time solo female traveler. This is where you’ll get the best value for money, the best genuine care and the best shot at social life.

Small boutique hotels have always a small cozy breakfast room (and often other common spaces) where you can meet and chat with other guests many of which are solo travelers just like you.

Rooms are almost always equipped with coffee/tea maker, small fridge and often even a micro. This is all I really need. For a while. I typically book a hotel room for two/three nights. If I like it I talk to the owner/manager and ask for a weekly/monthly rate.

TIP: If you are in Asia, zoom out the map as much as you can to make sure the hotel’s location is really on the main street and not in a small alley just off the street. These alleys, no matter how short, are always rat infested and most unpleasant to walk on.

Airbnbs?

My Airbnb in Cascais, Portugal

Airbnb is a relatively new concept to me. I’ve been staying in Airbnb rooms for a few months now and, for the most part, quite enjoyed my stay.

It all started in Cascais, Portugal a few months ago where I discovered that my hotel room was also an Airbnb accommodation. In fact, as it turned out the whole Cascais and Portugal were one giant Airbnb. Today, the whole world has gone Airbnb mad. The options are endless.

The original concept was to let a spare bedroom to traveling guests, share breakfast with them, suggest few sightseeing tours, (hopefully) make new friends and make a bit of extra money in the process. That was then…

…Today everyone is trying to cash in. Hosts turn their villas and even apartments into guesthouses renting out every single bedroom or any room they may have including the living room. Today, there are so many options that the decision-making process becomes more and more difficult and time-consuming. Living in someone else’s bedroom works pretty well most of the time but can also have its own challenges…

Join Airbnb family and get $44 in travel credit when you sign up

Guest vs Host

Staircase to heaven .. or hell?

I personally do not like staying in a place where I am the only guest (original idea). It feels too intimate, too private. I am not used to “sharing a flat” with anybody, thus I am not sure how to interact with total strangers on their own premises and feel very uncomfortable using any facility (kitchen. living room sofas) other than the bedroom confined to me. I feel more like an invader than a guest. It doesn’t really work for me.

Things don’t always work for hosts either. They feel discomfort and frustration when guests treat their home as hotel and/or demand service. They feel they have opened the doors to their own private home and want guests to respect that. “This is not a hotel and I am not your servant” – they complain. “After all, this is my home.”

This causes a delicate dilemma. Where do you draw a line? For as much as I understand hosts’ standpoint, I am not sure how I’d react to “This is my home” reminder. Probably move out on the spot. Being an overnight guest at friend’s house is not easy, let alone stranger’s.

My private bathroom and garden in Costa Rica

This is why I like so much better staying in houses turned into guest houses or family houses where more than one room (preferably three) is Airbnb. These Airbnbs are (for me) the best option. When they work they really work, there is nothing better. Three guests change household’s dynamics and interaction with a host completely. This is no longer one on one interaction where the host always has an upper hand but a group of equal friends sharing their love for travel (and the host is yet another traveler).

In addition, sharing living room, kitchen, garden and other common areas with other guests give an opportunity to meet kindred travelers, exchange information or just socialize and have fun. Many guests are (surprise, surprise) older solo travelers eager to socialize with housemates at the house and also eager to explore together the world outside of the house. Win-win situation.

I normally book a room for one week. Weekly bookings offer 10-30% discount. Occasionally even more. If things work well I make a deal with the host to extend my stay.

Note: Prior to booking, Airbnb.com does not show the exact location of accommodations, which makes pinpointing them impossible. Write to the host and ask for info you need prior to booking.

How about hostels?

My hostel accommodation in Leon, Nicaragua

Hostels cannot be of any interest to 60+, full-time solo female traveler? Or can they?

A few weeks ago, while visiting Leon Nicaragua, I stayed in a hostel for the first time ever in my entire life. What a pleasant surprise. Hostels these days offer private rooms. In ‘my’ hostel, owned and run the Dutch way by a great Dutch guy, there was only one dorm, the rest were privates (as they are called), that is private rooms with ensuite bathrooms. I loved it. Great atmosphere. Easy to meet other travelers. All info I needed was in the reception. I could book tours and shuttles. No second (uncomfortable) thoughts regarding the kitchen usage as it may be in Airbnbs. But what surprised me the most was that almost all travelers staying in privates were older. It was a total success and I’ll have no problem booking a hostel again another time.

Last word of wisdom?

A night stroll in Dubai Marina

So what about the security? Killings, robberies, pickpocketing? There are a zillion horror stories about all sort of terrible things happening. Most of them are second, third, fourth hand accounts. Very few are first hand. Why? How many encounters did you have with killings, robberies, pickpocketing in your own country? How many did you witness? None?

I haven’t either. For there is really nothing to worry about… not, unless you are a gang member, sell drugs or walk around alone at 2 a.m. drunk and vulnerable.

Just use common sense as you would in your hometown and, for your own freedom of movement, convenience, and peace of mind, reside in the city center where you in addition to the above can also enjoy your social life to the fullest.

Happy travels.

p.s. Update: Not that it really change anything (but) I was unlucky to encounter a mugging. Sadly, it did happen to me. A month or two after I had written this post. Safe travels. 

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If you ever thought, as I did, that two teeny tiny (in size and population) neighboring Central American countries sharing culture, geography, history, nature, roots, colonization, language and much more, the characteristics that (at least on the paper) appear to be identical or at least very similar… you’d be wrong. So, so wrong. For, as far as I know, there are no two other countries having such potentials of being twin brothers or sisters that differ as much as Panama and Costa Rica.

For many years both countries top the lists of ‘best retirement destinations‘ and are home to large expat communities, primarily from the US and Canada. To compare the two is almost impossible. It all comes down to personal preferences. It all depends on who you are, what type of lifestyle you’re looking for, your economy, how much heat (literally) is too much and even your age.

But if I were to attempt generalization, I’d say Panama may appeal more to the younger generation while Costa Rica to somewhat older not only in age but also in experience (been there, done that).

The Vibe and The People

Panama: The ‘talk of the town’ is that Panama City is becoming a new Miami, and the city loves that talk. Panama is all about business and making money… at the same time, Panama is also about partying and reggaeton (latino reggae). When the music plays the Panamanian dance. Period. If you don’t you must be sick for there is no other excuse.

The predominant ethnic group is Mestizos, European ancestors are in a minority. The economy is stable, plenty of jobs attracting the less privileged from neighboring countries (Colombians, El Salvadorians, Mexicans). Old, run-down neighborhoods (like Casco Viejo) are being refurbished to attract young and hype hipsters with deep pockets. High tempo. Work hard and play hard.

Work, nightlife, party, dance, reggaeton. Latino way. All the way.

Costa Rica: Small town vibe in a democratic setting. Costa Rica is all about Pura Vida (pure life). Lower tempo and chill. Nature, environment, and bio-culture. The greenest country in the world where almost all electricity is generated from green sources. Costa Rica is also the happiest country in the world – according to National Geographic 2017. Well educated, mostly from European ancestry population. No Latino blood vibe as far as I could see but polite and softly spoken locals hiding their temperament and emotions well.  Salsa and romantic Western tunes are their favorite music. And… surprise… surprise, most drivers follow traffic rules. Did you know Costa Rica is lacking its own army?

Maximize joy, minimize stress and live the life to its fullest. Pura Vida.

Public infrastructure and wellbeing

Panama: Filthy and noisy. Rubbish everywhere. Plenty of stray cats. Sidewalks are either missing or are full of potholes, even in front of 5-star hotels.

Not once did I dare to purchase anything from street vendors. Meat and vegetables in local supermarkets look disgusting. For better quality of goods, you need to shop in Western supermarkets. Food, like anything else, is very expensive, more expensive than in Western countries which is quite shocking for the visitors as they do not expect to find developing country to be more expensive than their own. Expats often fly to Miami to shop, especially electronics, as it is more economical than shopping locally even though they need to buy an airline ticket.

Panama is doing its best to drop the third world country label, but as long as they do not clean up their act I cannot see that happening anytime soon. For me, Panama is a presumptive first world country in a third world country infrastructure.

Costa Rica: Nice and clean. No rubbish anywhere.

Fresh, tastefully presented and packaged goods (meat, veg, and fruit) sold in the clean and welcoming hole-in-the-wall family-run corner shops. Supermarkets, even the local ones, are of a good standard. Many biological shops. Was never restrained from purchasing anything due to contamination or poor hygiene scare. Food is more expensive than in Panama but if you shop locally and at farmers markets, you will manage just fine. Great quality, great taste, and much better prices than in supermarkets.

Costa Rica is the most expensive Central American country. With a bit of planning you can still make it on a budget should you choose to do so. (Retirement on a budget)

The Weather

Panama: Tropical – all year around.  Approx 30C. Could be very nice and pleasant but it isn’t due to high humidity. If you add the factor it feels more like 40C or even higher and very muggy. Doesn’t get much better at night. Temperature drops few degrees but not humidity. Hardly any breeze. Rains a lot. When it doesn’t rain it pours. Best places to settle down are by the sea or on higher latitudes where you get more breeze and less humidity. An air con is a must, also at night.

On a positive (and negative) note, even though Panama City is a coastal town there are no beaches in the city – well, there are two (or three?) teeny tiny ones in the Casco but unusable. Neither are there any nice beaches in the proximity of the city. The closest one, Coronado, popular with weekend visitors and expats, is only (?) a two-hour drive away.

Costa Rica: Also tropical. Officially. In reality – total shock – COLD during the winter months. I was not prepared for that. San Jose and other towns in the Central Valley are in various microclimates zones due to surrounding mountains … and I hate them all. Hard, stormy, freezing cold winds go right through you. No need for air con, you will not find any either. Instead, you’d need a warm sweater and socks, so don’t forget to bring them. It can get warm on a sunny and windless day, the nights, however, are always chilly and you’d need a warm blanket/duvet to survive. You may even need two blankets if you live in a house with natural air con.

On a positive note, it only takes an hour drive to warm up as it is all it takes to get to on one of the Costa Rican’s lovely beaches where the temperatures (and humidity) are higher. The Caribbean coast is warmer than the Pacific one, not by much. Summer months are warmer but rainier.

Money Issues

Panama: Panama has (so conveniently) employed USD as an accepted alternative to native Balboa. All prices are in USD. You get paid in USD and you pay in USD. And you also get the change in USD – for the most part.

Occasionally you may get few Balboa coins, however, the exchange rate of Panamanian official currency Balboa is tied to US dollar (1 ISD = 1 Balboa).

In ATMs you withdraw USD. Each withdrawal will cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Costa Rica: In Costa Rica, the official currency is Costa Rican Colón but USD is widely accepted. Most supermarkets, malls, restaurants, and taxis accept USD, however, you get the change in local currency at the exchange rate that is lower than in banks. Hotels and tour operators quote USD but you can pay in either currency.

Coins are huge, heavy and not worth very much. You need a big bag and/or deep pocket to carry them.

In ATMs you withdraw Colons or USD. Each withdrawal will also cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Summa Summarum

So, where do the expats, the retirees fit into that equation?

If you’re a young(ish) entrepreneur with the not too bad economy you may want to give Casco in Panama City a try. But once you retire (or even earlier) you’d be looking for a place on the beach, maybe Coronado or David. You may also want to live in a cooler place in the highlands e.g. Boquete. Or …

You will follow many other expats’ footsteps and move to Costa Rica where most of the retirees end up eventually.

In Costa Rica, the expats/retirees live about everywhere, in the mountains, on the beach and even in the Central Valley. For most, the Pura Vida way of living is simply irresistible.

The post Same, same but different, Panama vs Costa Rica appeared first on One way ticket to Paradise.

No, no, no, thank you very much, but no. Those times are long gone. Another century, another time, another life, another economy, another retirement package.

The retirees of today want none of that. Not if they can help it. They have other plans, possibilities, options, and dreams. They do not retire to retire and to stop what they’ve been doing but to start entirely new life, a new adventure, maybe even a new career. Preferably in a new, exotic place.

Today, the retirement is no longer associated with age but with new beginnings: new life chapter, new home, new adventures, new hobbies, new friends. New job? The retirees of today have no longer desire to spend time on activities associated with the traditional ‘retirement plan’ of previous generations nor are they interested in traditional grandparenting like free babysitting. The grandparents of today, or rather glammas and glampas, want to see the world, experience and explore and later, much later when exploring becomes a routine settle down in a paradise destination and live the life they choose to live.

And they do. In thousands. They are still young, independent and curious looking forward to the exciting and rewarding life ahead of them preferably in a place where the sun shines 12 months a year or where they can pursue their hobbies. After long professional careers, they are also financially independent having enough funds in their retirement plans to let them live pretty much the life they desire.

Retirement fund. Is it a must for a dream to come true? Is a dream of retirement paradise only accessible to “rich and famous“? What about ‘the others“? The ones without retirement packages? The ones with basic social security or even less. 

Are you one of them? Have you also been dreaming of a retirement paradise, a new life in the sunshine a new beginning but let that dream remain a dream? How can it be anything but? Not with the little means you have? So you give up on your dream without even exploring the possibilities of pursuing it. For it is simply not possible to live a paradise life on a budget? Say, 700 USD a month? Is it?

Is it?

Yes, it is. You must never give up on dreams. Adapt instead. Find a way. Pursue your dream with whatever available means you have. You may have to do few reality checks and adjust them to your dreams (or the other way around) but that is all. Your options may be somewhat limited but they are there. It is all up to you. For 700 USD a month you can, if you put your mind to it, pretty much live the life you like and wherever you like.

Choice of Retirement Country

The more developed a country is, the more expensive it gets. The more expats a country attracts, the more expensive it becomes. 700 USD a month won’t pay the 2000 USD rent. You need to find a country where a studio, with an acceptable standard, doesn’t cost over 350. You can find them in South East Asia (e.g. Cambodia, Philippines) or Central America (e.g. Nicaragua, Guatemala).

What if your dream destination is in an expensive country (e.g. Costa Rica)? You can still make it, however, you need to look for accommodation in less hyped communities.

Choice of Retirement Community

Communities popular with expats are the most expensive places to live in. The more expats live in the area, the higher standard is acquired and subsequently the more expensive it gets. Accommodation in popular spots, e.g. on the beach, may cost more than what it does in your native country. 700 a month won’t be enough even for an Airbnb room. To find a home for the more reasonable price, you need to go inland. The further away from expats you live the less you pay. At some point, you may need to decide whether you like to live with expats or with locals. And not only for economic reasons. 

Expat life in an expat community is not for everybody. For some, bringing a home into the sunshine, iow, living a very much the same type of life as back home among own countrymen as neighbors doesn’t make much sense. They’d rather live a more exotic life in a more exotic location than what expat beach resorts can offer. (Isn’t it why they have left their homes in the first place?) Hence, to better the quality of life they leave the expensive beach life behind for areas inhabited predominantly by kindred minded and/or by locals cutting the expenses by 50% or more in the process. Go wherever they go. Co-inhabit with them and “double” your money.

But if you are a free spirit and would rather integrate into the local culture and live where only locals live you can find a place for 200 a month or less. I know of people who pay only 100 a month for a two-bedroom house. Keep in mind though that the standard of your accommodation may not be quite in the parity of the Western one. 

Choice of Retirement Accommodation

A studio. If you’re alone, you don’t need anything larger than that. The smaller, the cheaper. You may even find a small studio not too far from the beach if the beach is where you want to live.

If you go more inland, you may find one or even two-bedroom house for a reasonable price. Once again, it all depends on how near/far you live from ‘developed’ expat communities.

Rent for at least six months. The longer you rent the cheaper it gets per month. Many rentals are furnished. Some also include utilities. If the money is really tight, you may consider renting a room. A room in a local community, in a more remote place, will cost you practically nothing.

Choice of Retirement Lifestyle

Do you like to hang out with expats for happy hour? Go on tours? Fine dining?

The occasional happy hour will not break your bank but the other attractions might. A day trip to a volcano in Costa Rica, for example, costs 130 USD – one-fifth of your monthly budget. If you absolutely must do the expensive pastime activities – get a part-time job. Teach English, IT, art or whatever other skills you may have in local schools to make extra money.

If a pint or two in a local bar is the way you like to socialize – go to Cambodia where the pint costs 50 cents or Vietnam where the local beer costs a couple of cents. If you like hiking instead – go to … well, anywhere, hiking is free… as long as you stay away from national parks that charge hefty entrance.

Not that you should shop there, but you will not afford the imported goods from Western-style supermarkets where prices are higher than in Western countries. (Aviva yogurt, for example, costs 3 dollars and some change in the US and almost 7 in Costa Rica). Buy local products at farmers markets and you will not go hungry. At the same time, you will contribute to the local economy. And, btw, local yogurt is as good if not better and healthier. 

Like eating in restaurants? Then perhaps Panama or Costa Rica, where a meal (without drinks) costs 10 USD, is not for you. Go to a country where the food is cheap. The best foodie place and one of the cheapest I know is Hoi An in Vietnam. 

Get involved in local communities. You may enjoy it more than you ever thought possible. 

Do your homework. There are places in the world where you can fund the lifestyle you choose. Find them. 

Finding a Balance

It is all about the balance. The balance between wants, needs, and can-funds. You may even have it all – if you choose wisely. If you open up to small changes, if you embrace the new, if you revise your demands and expectation, if you create your own life rather than replicate the one you want to leave, if you can balance the old and the new – the world is yours.

For 700 USD a month, or less. So, never surrender your dreams… just find a way to pursue them.

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With each sniff, the idea of retirement paradise you so vividly dreamed about for the past 20 years is becoming less of a dream but more of a nightmare. Sniff, Sniff. How can think about going? You are scared, you don’t dare. Sniff, Sniff. And then you sniff some more.

So you give up on your dream. The dream of daily sunshine, warm nights, sandy beaches, morning dips in a crystal clear ocean, chilled drinks by the pool, flip-flops all year round, breathtaking sunsets and sunrises, stressfree life. The dream of hiking up a mountain or sailing around the world.

You abandon the idea of retirement paradise and stay ‘at home’. It is better that way. It is safer.  At least you have a couple of friends nearby that you meet from time to time and a few neighbors, and perhaps you will get to see your family this Christmas. They promised they’ll try to make it this year. Sniff, Sniff.”

Leaving family and friends behind for the scary prospect of lonely life far away from home is a number one concern for all retirees and a dream-breaker for many. The fear of being lonely makes them give up on their dream.

How unfortunate, how unnecessary and how sad, For being alone or lonely is a non-issue issue.

So let me tell you right away:

Being alone or lonely will not happen. Not unless you consciously choose the hermit type of life and/or solitude. And even then it may be rather difficult to accomplish. You have nothing to worry about. Making friends in an expatriate community is the easiest thing in the world. Easier than in your hometown. Why? Because expatriates are all rocking the same boat. You are all looking for friends, friendships, contacts, network, social life as well as fulfilling and meaningful life. So if there is something you need not worry about in your paradise it is being alone. You will find friends in no time. In fact, you will have more friends and less time than you have ever had before.

In this day and age, you can begin to build your network and make friends long before your planned retirement in the comfort of your current safe home. That way when you arrive at your destination, there will be a group of friends already waiting for you … with a homemade dinner and a cocktail … and lots of stories to tell.

With today’s technology, all your new friends are just one click away. Get yourself a beverage of your choice, curl up on the sofa, open your laptop/iPad/cell or whatever you use and…

Follow these steps:

• Find expat groups: Before your arrival during the initial planning stage join all expat Facebook groups you can find, both national and area-specific. Not only will you get in touch with potential friends living in the area but you’ll also have access to an invaluable source of information.

  They have all walked in your shoes and know what you are going through. If you are unsure of your destination and need advice, join groups in all countries of interest. Ask any question, raise any concern you may have and there will always be someone only too happy to provide answers and advice There will also be many newcomers or presumptive newcomers asking the same questions and having the same (or different) concerns. Read previous posts as many of your questions and doubts have already been answered. You are not alone.

  Members of most of the Facebook groups meet for cocktails or dinner. Meet up with the members of your groups as soon as you arrive and I can guarantee you’ll never be alone again. They are the most welcoming, sociable, friendly, generous and helpful bunch you’ll ever meet.

• Follow interest groups: ‘Kill two birds with one stone’ and join interest groups, both on Facebook and on meetup.org. If you, for example, like taking pictures, join the groups where photographers hang out and join their events, e.g. photo walks. Not only will you meet plenty of people but you’ll meet people who share your interest.

• Join Social Clubs: Look for them on the Internet or ask your friends at the destination. Most of your new friends are already members so you can just go together with them to the next get-together. Nationals of most countries love to group themselves into nationality-based clubs, e.g. Americans in Panama or British Royal Club of Cascais. Members meet for lunches, cocktails, dinners, various events or celebration of country-specific holidays e.g. Thanksgiving or 4th of July. Other nationalities are welcome to these events giving you an opportunity to network and mix with all expat communities.

• Join Women’s Clubs: Similar to social clubs but for women only, e.g. International Women Organization, American women Association, Swedish Women Educational Association (SWEA). All of these clubs organize frequent networking events, coffee mornings, lunches, meetings with interesting people and also celebrate country-specific holidays (to which men are welcome)

• Join Internations.org: A global community of expats operating in most countries organizing series of networking and social events. A perfect place for networking. Do join them.

• Register with Embassies: It is always a good idea to register with your embassy. You can do it online. Once you’re on their list, you’ll be getting invites to various events, be it Christmas Markets, gala dinners or other more formal or informal events. You can also sign up to volunteer for e.g. Christmas Market and make more friends that way. It is a great way to meeting your community. But above all, by registering you’ll let your government know you’re in the area should a disaster strike.

• Register with Business Councils: Top networking. Most of the countries, besides more formal embassies, are also represented by less formal business councils. Their events are a great way to network and meet both local and foreign business people in a less formal environment. You don’t always need to be an entrepreneur to join as many councils also welcome individuals.

• OR, if you are in a small community: just go down to the beach or local bar

Before you know it, you’ll be the busiest person in the world. You will wonder how expat entrepreneurs or contractors find time to work with such a busy social life (I could never figure that out). You will be surprised how little time you have to Skype your friends and family back home. And talking about the family, you may meet them more often in your retirement rental than you ever met them in your home country, even more so if you live in an attractive beach community.

After a while, you may yearn for a quieter ‘me time’, you may even be selective which clubs to join or which events to go to. You will look forward to spending some time alone. When that happens you know your new home is your real home. So, put your fears away and stop worrying. Pack few necessities and go wherever you like to pursue your dream. Once you make that move you will never look back, like so many other retirees before you … like Nicole (see sidebar). Today she lives her dream life in Coronado, in a small cottage on the beach.

So, is a bird in the hand worth more than two in the bush? NO, not if you kill it.

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Palawan, the Philippines

Oh yes – security. Hot hot topic. It is all about security these days. But truth be told the issues of safety and security were never really much of concern to me.  I practiced common sense and it worked just fine. Luckily nothing has ever happened to me nor to anyone I know so the need of taking extra precautions didn’t feel all that urgent. After all, bad things only happen to other people, don’t they?

“The time they are changin“.  Perhaps I got a bit older. I am officially a GlamMa now. Perhaps I got a bit wiser. Or perhaps there is too much information out there. For today you not only have access to information about the most fantastic adventures in most remote locations in the world but also tons of scary stories about bag snatchers, scammers, pickpockets, gangs, not to mention kidnappings or other politically and religiously related unrest. 

You can always get help if you need it

All those alarming stories made my imagination go wild.  Surely my age will make me an easy target (or so will the bad guys think). Surely my very visible DSLR will attract some undesirable interest. Surely this, surely that …  After all, isn’t it the opportunity that makes a thief?  Phew. I was getting seriously worried.  For not only was I about to travel to supposedly very unstable part of the world but I also was going flashpacking for the first time ever in my life as a female solo traveler and photographer … at the age of 60+.

I went and (of course) survived to tell the tale. Came back without a scratch.  And so will you. Don’t get me wrong. By no means do I want to marginalize security issues. Not at all. Bad things do happen in the world, including your own town. You should learn about the latest scams and tricks and how to avoid them just don’t let the stories you read ever scare you off so that you’ll cancel your trip. Use common sense and you’ll be fine. But to make you feel still saver, give you bit more peace of mind and above all help you avoid unnecessary annoyance I outlined few practical tips below which I hope you’ll find useful. 

Bring smart Phone with GPS

Never go anywhere without your smart phone

If there is only one advice I can give or if there is only one device you can bring with you – this is it.  I cannot stress enough how important this is.  Do not leave ‘the house’ without your smart phone.  Ever. This little smart thing will make you smart and in charge.  This little smart thing may save your life if you ever happen to find yourself in real trouble. You do not need local SIM, network access or even WiFi. Just turn on the GPS and you’re good to go.  Note that SIM cards in Asia are very cheap. In Vietnam, for example, a SIM card with unlimited data valid for 1 month costs only 7 USD. 

Always download a map that can be used offline prior to your arrival. For some mysterious reason, many taxi drivers have difficulties finding their way around when they think they see dollar sign approaching their cab and may try to take you ‘for a ride’. They will, however, quickly find the way once you pull out your cell and let them know you’re in charge. (It happened to me numerous times that I had to lead a taxi driver to my hotel in a town I never visited before. )

Also, which goes even without saying, an offline map is a priceless tool in finding your way around in unfamiliar places.

Choose the right hotel

Another reason you may like to stay in a well lit place. (Locals never use pavements after dark but walk on streets.)

It feels more secure to have a hotel already booked prior to your arrival, especially when you are visiting unfamiliar destination for the first time and/or arriving after sunset. If you plan on staying longer, make a booking for 2 days only. This will give you plenty of time to find something better should you wish to do so. With a bit of luck and some negotiation skills, you may even get a better deal than the one offered by booking sites. 

There is always a reason why hotels are clustered together.  Typically such areas are most central, touristy, populated, popular, walkable and best-lit part of town with plenty of landmarks, people, restaurants bars, and nightlife. As a solo female traveler, you don’t want to stay in isolated hotels on badly lit streets on outskirts of town which you can only reach by taxi.

Always view the room before you check in

(Unless you’re specifically looking for solitude) you want to stay in populated areas, in hotels located on well-lit streets, preferably main street, with easy access to restaurants and other attractions which you can reach on foot even after dark. 

Booking.com offers great maps.  Pick the largest cluster and hover over individual hotels to see the prices.  Click on one within your budget and then zoom in as much as you need to make sure the hotel is really located directly on the main street or another large street, and not in a small ally some 20-50 meters off the street which may often be the case in the SEA. You don’t want to live there. A walk in a dark, rat infested alley, even if it is only 20 meters short/long, can ruin your whole stay.   

Always view the room before you check in to make sure you’ll be getting a room you thought you booked. 

Getting to hotel

The safest, easiest, stress-free and hustle free way to get to your hotel is undeniably by hotel airport transfer. Some hotels offer this service free of charge some at a surcharge. A peace of mind is worth so much more than a few extra dollars, even more so after sunset.  So book this service if offered. 

Horse and carriage. Mandalay in Myanmar

But if you need to take a taxi make sure you have downloaded into your phone an offline map, detailed direction to your hotel and flashlight as well as recharged batteries. Google the web to get an idea what the fare is, negotiate the fare before you get into the taxi and demand to be taken to your booked hotel regardless of whatever story you might be told, e.g that your hotel burnt down. And don’t forget to ask your driver to turn on the light and also turn on your flashlight while paying. It is very easy to confuse unknown notes and even more so in a dark taxi. 

Some destinations offer fixed price taxi vouchers.  Find out if your destination does, if so get one before you join taxi cue

Getting around

Alternative way of flying

After months and months of solo travel, dozens of hotels, numerous taxi rides, bike rides, long distance buses, trains, local airline flights, overland border crossings and hundreds of kilometers on foot not once did I feel threatened, insecure or scared; not once did I feel any danger. Yet I was taking the paths not many visitors would dare take. Solo. In fact, my scariest moment (or rather most unpleasant) was the time I was staying in a hotel located 20 meters off the main street in a badly lit ally and (for sure) full of rats.

The 20 meter walk could perhaps be manageable with some company.  If you like a company to explore the location together with, share a taxi or meal the best chance of meeting other travelers is in smaller hotels (20 – 30 rooms) during breakfast or during trips organized by the hotel (e.g. trekking). Just keep in mind (not that it matters) there are very few solo travelers in appropriate age group and even fewer female solo travelers. 

Always negotiate a fare before you take a seat

There is always one good and reliable taxi company in every city. Google the Internet and find out which one it is.  Also, get an idea (Google it) how much taxis/tuk-tuks cost before hiring one to make sure you won’t be overcharged.

The 60+ age is the least of a problem. While traveling it is really a number. I’d say it could even be an advantage. Young travelers and locals treat you like a queen and are very helpful.

Stray dogs and cats  

They are everywhere, in the cities and on paradise beaches. They are part of the environment.  They won’t bother you, won’t come near you, won’t even bark at you. During daytime they are almost invisible sleeping somewhere in the shade, e.g. underneath a car or even in the middle of the street blending dangerously with the pavement  – so be careful not to step on them.  Beach dogs invade beaches just after sunrise and before sunset and are completely harmless just having fun chasing each other.   Cats, however, may come to you and beg for a cuddle.

Do not pet them. Both cats and dogs may have and often do have rabies. 

 .. and those few words of wisdom 

Perhaps reading on scary stories wasn’t such a bad idea after all for they (the stories) highlighted region specific issues, made me aware of what may happen and eventually taught me how to keep guard while enjoying myself. It took, however, few days to accomplish the latter.  I was super alert, watchful, cautious and very suspicious at first.  Almost paranoid. I didn’t have any fun. Few days passed and nothing happened. I began to relax. I could now begin to fully enjoy myself and explore. And explore I did.  I’ve been to places no other 60+ solo female would dare to go. I have also mastered few other skills in the process like crossing the streets while maneuvering among millions of motorbikes so dreaded by all tourists.

Educate yourself and be in charge. Get as much information as you need and don’t let it scare you off. Most of the time things tend to see much darker ‘on paper’ than in real life. Fear of the unknown. Remember, there are no more bad guys in a place you’re visiting than in your own home town. The difference is you know all the how-tos, dos and don’ts in your home town but none at your destination. So read on local specific how-tos, dos and don’ts as well as scam reports, combine it all with common sense and you’ll be as save as in your own home town. And don’t forget – if you get your bag snatched,  or if you get scammed it isn’t the bad guys, but you.  You didn’t do your homework and put yourself in that situation.

… and a couple of words of advice

Do not believe everything you hear.  In Asian culture terms like ‘no’ or ‘I don’t know’ are very rarely used, hence take any reply you may get to your questions, including directions, with a huge grain of salt as it maybe just a lot of nonsense. 

And as for the unrest? Well, they don’t want you there either – if there is any. You’ll be warned not to go and local transportation agencies won’t sell you a ticket to the area. Should you choose to go anyhow – you’re on your own. 

This is pretty much it.  Use common sense and don’t let ‘stories’ scare you off. And above all – enjoy your trip and have fun.

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One way of traveling. (Fishing boat of the Kite Beach)

The only plan that is planned is to travel slowly, very slowly and stay in each country as long as visa will allow, which is between 1 and 3 months. Should a particular place require my attention for a longer period of time I can always do a visa run. So the plan still is – no plan.

One has to start somewhere, the starting point of this journey is Hanoi. Pretty cold Hanoi at that, which isn’t quite what I was expecting. The Hanoian winter chill came as a chilling surprise to me. Not only is the winter in Hanoi very chilly but also humid and windy so all that chill plus the factor plus no central heating anywhere or any other heating will undoubtedly chill one frozen soul like me to the bone. The chill I hate the most, the one that goes right through you and never ever goes away. The chill that I remember too well when living in Cyprus. The chill that requires full clothing at night and an electric heater. 

These abras and dhows are still operational and in traffic.

It would have been smarter (and much warmer) to make Ho Chi Minh City the starting point. It would also be much more convenient as there are no direct flights from Dubai to Hanoi but there are plentiful to HCMC.

Oh well, the Lunch Lady has “ruined” my plans again. Don’t know why but I always thought she was in Hanoi so it was Hanoi I wanted to go to. Wrong. Her little soup kingdom is in HCMC. My bad. I should have taken that direct flight to warm HCMC instead. Of course, I was free to change my itinerary once I realized the mistake but then it was too late. Defying my destiny? Always. But also by then, I was ready to “take Hanoi” (mistake of reading too much) and it was Hanoi I wanted to go to – first. Chill and all. Now the question is how am I going to fit extra winter clothes into my already overfull luggage. Do I follow backpackers example and simple wear it all? Why not. And once the weather warms up toss it all away without having to replace anything and thereby downsizing my luggage before the ‘real’ travel begins. So, that’s a plan. (there is a plan after all)

This is not Hoàn Kiếm Lake Hoàn Kiếm Lake in Hanoi but Tilapia Desert Lake in Al Ain

I’ll be staying in a hotel right on Hoàn Kiếm Lake, next to Old Quarters, that is exactly the part of town where first-time travelers to Hanoi, like myself, normally stay. What attracted me to my home away from home was its top roof bar. And no, no what you think. It wasn’t for the convenience of crawling back to my room after an evening up there but for the photo opportunity. 

10 days forward and I am off to Sapa. On the coach. The bus stop is on the other side of ‘my’ lake, not more than a 10-minute walk from the hotel so I will just grab my backpack and walk to the bus, leaving the rest of my luggage behind at the hotel. Until recently Hanoi-Sapa trip required staggering 10 hours on a night train but since the new highway opened it ‘only’ takes 4 hours to travel the 250 kilometers which is the distance between the two places. One can still take the train though. 

After 5 (or is it 6?) days in Sapa I’ll be back in Hanoi and on the lake again (not necessary the same one) to celebrate Vietnamese New Year. After that? After that the page is blank.

What I’ll do next depends on how much I like Hanoi. If I like it I’ll stay a bit longer. I may even rent an apartment for a month or so. But if not, I’ll get on the train and begin my journey South.

Sunrise at Tilapia Desert Lake

The general idea is to travel all 1800 kilometers from Hanoi to HCMC by train, some 4-6 hours at a time stopping at interesting places on the way like Halong Bay or Hoi An. Why train and not hop-on-hop-off sleeper bus that goes between those two cities and costs close to nothing? Because I am not suicidal. (Again too much youtube watching)

Once I reach the end of the road I’ll be traveling North again. From CHMC I’d like to take ferry or boat or any other water vessel and follow Mekong Delta to Phnom Penh in Cambodia where I plan to spend a month. Then another month in Laos, still another in Burma where I once again will be changing direction and travel South stopping for 3 months in Malaysia and Penang, an island to which I almost moved some 3-4 years ago. Then Indonesia and the Philippines – Cebu being ‘the last resort’.  

Well, that’s pretty much it. Places I am most curious about are Mekong Delta and Burma. 

So this is my no-plan plan. After that back to Dubai and … Panama.

p.s. just when I am about to click on publish-button to share this post following headline pops up in my feed. “Emirates to launch daily service to Philippines’ Cebu.” What a timing. And it happens again. First Panama. Now Cebu. Isn’t life fantastic?

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Made of straw. They don’t get much lighter than that, do they?

Travel light, pack light,
you always pack too much,
guaranteed you won’t even wear half of the stuff you’re bringing,
whatever you need you can easily purchase at the location, even the whole new wardrobe if you like;
 and more of the same … this is what I hear/read in every single travel resource. Travel light. 

So true. I know from my own experience many things we pack for our trips come back home untouched so the packing can be definitely downsized quite a bit. However, the South East Asia travel experts want us to downsize still more,  travel even lighter, much, much lighter,  minimalistically light, ideally, we should fit 1 year of travel gear into a 45 l bag.  (Hey, there is hardly enough room for my electronics in a 45 l backpack –  what about the rest of my stuff, clothes for example?)

Sure it may work if you’re 20 and a backpacker wearing most of your backpack on your back, tossing the contents away when dirty and then replacing it with the whole new wardrobe that costs less than a load of laundry at the laundromat.Then all you really need is a couple of t-shirts, pant/shorts/skirt and something for the beach. And a pair of shoes/flip-flops. It must work,

(almost) fine dining PQ in Dubai Marina

But what if you are not a backpacker. What if you don’t like to stay in hostels but in a comfort of a hotel room with own bathroom and wi-fi (and maybe even an iron).

What if you are no longer 20 but older and don’t carry a backpack (not with clothes anyway), don’t wear t-shirts, don’t want to buy local cheap wardrobe (nor the expensive one for that matter)  but want to wear your own clothes, plan for occasional fine-dining, visit some fancy places for a glass of red, might get an invitation for gala dinner? – then packing light becomes a bit of a challenge, even more so when you’re traveling for months and months and when you travel, the train is your means of transportation. 

So, there it is. This is my dilemma. What to pack and how much.  Electronics go in the backpack. Yes, I need to have one. My first ever. No need for toiletries, hair dryers, towels as they will be provided by hotels. The only concern is – the clothes. Not that I mind living like a  ‘hippie’, in fact, I’ve been one all my life. At heart. But I am not so sure I’d like to look like one. (no pun intended).  It could be the ‘age thing’ but I just want to wear my own clothes.  Why can’t I? Too much to ask?

not so very different backpacker’s beach fine dining .. with a few

My clothes are part of my life, part of who I am. There is absolutely no need for any major changes or interruptions only because I travel other than perhaps choosing clothes for summer or winter, rain or beach. The life continues. Same life. When I ‘come to town’ I don’t come for a visit but to carry on with my regular life. I may eat different food, walk different streets but the life as such stays the same. Same life different location. No matter how short the visit is I don’t want to be just a visitor. Neither do I want to be a tourist. I like to be an inhabitant, feel like one and be treated as such. Truth be told – don’t even care all that much for landmarks but would rather grasp the feel of how it is to actually live in that particular place and do things the locals including expats do. I’d rather socialize with people living there than other visitors.

There is also another aspect – say Hanoi – Hanoi is not a little village somewhere in the jungle but a large city, a metropolis with millions of inhabitants, offices, embassies, businesses, corporations … people in suits. (And I like people in suits.) Say, I have a business meeting. What do I do then? Wear my hippie pants? Buy something I don’t want to buy?

talking about the hat …. this one is definitely not coming

So, what to do? What am I suppose to do? To clear my head a bit I am currently clearing out my closet. Sorting, sorting, sorting, sorting. Tossing away some, giving away some, packing away some. And whatever is left – I’ll take. My only hope is that it all will fit in one middle size suitcase as opposed to the THREE large ones my son thought I’ll be needing. Luckily the warm climate of South East Asia will slice the volume of my luggage in half or more so there will be room for a gala dress or two and other must-have items. What may be challenging however and what worries me the most is finding room for shoes and perhaps a couple of bags.

There are still 2.5 weeks to my departure. Will update this page and let you know how  I succeeded in downsizing my bag and by how much when the packing is done.  

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