Chicken bus to Masaya (and back)

Masaya a.k.a. “The Cradle of Nicaraguan Folklore“, “The heart of Nicaraguan handicrafts“, “The National Artisan Market“, ‘a must-visit handicraft market” is only 14 km from Granada, and as a matter of course, a perfect day trip destination. 14 kilometers is also short enough for a test ride on a chicken bus which I have wanted to do for quite some time. Now I had a chance to kill two birds with one stone (or was it two chickens?) so I waved down the bus in front of my Airbnb and off I went.

Waving down buses is a new concept to me but I like being picked up or dropped off any place I choose (as long it is on the bus route). Not sure why (perhaps too many passengers were getting on/off) but the ride took about 40 minutes and not 20 as most travel guides advertise. The fare was a whopping 10 Cordobas (0.32 USD). One way.

We arrived at the bus station right in the middle of the market. Not THAT market. There are two markets in town, the municipal one for locals and the artsy one for tourists but (if the truth be told) the whole downtown is one big market where anything and everything can be purchased and sold.

The layout of the city is almost an exact copy of Granada, including Central Park and the Lake (another lake). Yet the two are not even comparable. Such a contrast to Granada. In Masaya the streets are dirty, houses in desperate need of maintenance, colors long faded, stray dogs in abundance begging for food. No charm anywhere, no picturesque houses, no cozy restaurants or bars. Nothing. Ugly and boring town cluttered with cheap merchandise. I walked Market Street all the way down from the bus station/municipal market to the lake passing by the handicraft market and the Central Park on the way. Most of the walking I had to do on the street as the street market ‘confiscated’ all sidewalks.

Once I passed the Central Park, the street market with all its shops, stalls and people vanished. All of it. I entered an almost deserted residential area with uneasy feeling creeping all over me. I felt very uncomfortable walking alone, didn’t dare to take one single shot and was about to turn around a few times. But my sheer determination kept me going on and, eventually, 10 minutes later I reached the lake or rather very colorful but also almost deserted park/playground for the kids.

The lake was much smaller than in Granada, overgrown with vegetation and not accessible, there weren’t any beaches. The view from the park was nice though. With an exception of a few teenagers just hanging out, there were no people. Maybe locals come later in the day. All cafes but one were closed. I took a few shots and walked back to the street market. This time I stopped at the famous Masaya artisan market. After all, the artisan market was the reason I came to Masaya.

What a disappointment. I repeat. What a disappointment. (Five exclamations marks would be in place here)

Even though the setup was lovely, in old ruins of the ancient market, the hyped Masaya handicraft (super) market turned out to be only a few stalls selling the same staff as the municipal market but for triple prices. Bad, bad, bad shopping. Mostly hammocks, leather bags, and souvenirs you can get anywhere else in Nicaragua.

The best with Masaya Artisan Market were the few eateries serving authentic ethnic dishes. The lunch I had, a stew of some sort, was delicious and worth every penny (4.50 USD)… and a chicken bus ride.

The stew (meat with boiled yucca and pickled cabbage slaw) was served in a rather unusual but (ah) so smart and convenient way. A wooden plate was put into a plastic bag, banana leaf on the top, and food on the banana leaf. An instant doggy bag if you like to take your leftovers with you or trash bag if you don’t. The plastic bag with leftovers is tossed away and clean plate reused. No washing up necessary. Environment-friendly? Not so sure but definitely this way of serving food saves lots of water and time . 

After lunch, I went straight back to the station and took a chicken bus back to Granada. Needless to say, I will not be coming back. I may, however, take another ride on the chicken bus.

Masaya in Pictures

Not too many I am afraid. Masaya is not the best location for shooting pictures. I felt as I had to take more caution than usual.