Monteverde has it all, best and highest zip-lining in Latin America, adrenaline kicks for the adventurous ones, butterflies and hummingbirds for the little ones and walks/hikes for families. And, of course, tons of restaurants, bars and a ‘nightclub’.

After delayed the early planned-start, traffic jams, roadblocks and a serious mountain climb (you need a four-wheel drive for that) we arrived in the village at about 2 p.m. Late. Too late for the hikes. Too late for many other adventures. Three hours of remaining daylight didn’t give us much time to see or do very much exploring. Sun sets early in Costa Rica.  And there were few other things we needed to do before the fun could begin, like having lunch and finding a bed for the night. First things first. After driving around the village (or rather few blocks) about ten times, we found the beds … in a hostel…

…Well, the beds were in private rooms, still, it was my first hostel experience. Ever. Did I enjoy it? Hmm, it was ok. Would I do it again? In a private room? I would. Would it be my first choice? Perhaps not. 

Too late for suspended bridges and zip-lining.  We settled for a night walk in the forest and postponed the bridges to the following morning. The van picked us up at 5.30 p.m. (mind you the sun sets in Costa Rica at 5.15 p.m. so the night has already begun at 5.30) and took us to an assembly point. After having signed the liability waiver (in case something would bite or stung us), armored with flashlights we entered the pitch black forest. 

The two-hour tour was somewhat on a tourist trap side but I liked it just the same. It was fun walking up and down tiny forest paths with a flashlight as the only light source. (If nothing else) it was a good exercise. Not too scary. In fact, not scary at all but I wouldn’t do it on my own.

We got to see sloth mamma with her baby hanging from a tree getting settled for the night, viper snake, tarantula hidden in a hole of a tree trunk, red-eyed tree frog and few other small animals I no longer remember the name of. I enjoyed it. We all did. I would have enjoyed it even more if I only could use my speedlight camera flash, But I couldn’t. The animals wouldn’t appreciate it, the guide said. Still, it was a very enjoyable and different experience for a city slicker like myself. But, if this is not adventurous enough for you, do the walk in the rain or just after. If you’re ‘lucky’, you might find walking up and down slippery paths more fun, perhaps even more than you can take or bargained for. (Note: you may not touch any branches as one never knows what’s hiding there. The waiver. Remember?)

The tour ended at 8 p.m. Party time. However, walking up and down in the forest made us all tired, so we decided on skipping the party, grabbing a bite to eat and call it a day, there is always tomorrow – we’d try again early next morning. An hour later we could hardly make 100 meters back to the hostel. It was raining, and it was windy. Very, very windy. Storm.

I could hear the raging wind throughout the night. I woke up though to a beautiful sunshine. Perfect day for hiking, walking suspended bridges above the forest canopy and zip-lining. We went down for breakfast (yes free breakfast at the hostel) only to discover there was no electricity and that it was still drizzling and windy. We figured the wind was bringing in the droplets from the wet forest. No biggy. Off we went … only to find out the bridges and zip-lining shut down for the day. As did our alternative attractions; the butterflies and hummingbirds. All attractions and the town itself shut down due to the wind and power outage. Oh well. 

We went to the closest beach instead, I wanted to dip my toe in the Pacific – in Puntarenas. Puntarenas is not a paradise destination, far from it. Black sand, black ocean, music on full blast. We had late lunch and drove off back to San Jose stopping on the way at Caldera beach to watch the sunset. 

There is always a next time, isn’t there? And the freezing cold wind is still blowing a storm five days later, not only in Monteverde but also in San Jose. Time to leave Costa Rica.  

Monteverde Forest

Sunset at Caldera Beach

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If you ever thought, as I did, that two teeny tiny (in size and population) neighboring Central American countries sharing culture, geography, history, nature, roots, colonization, language and much more, the characteristics that (at least on the paper) appear to be identical or at least very similar… you’d be wrong. So, so wrong. For, as far as I know, there are no two other countries having such potentials of being twin brothers or sisters that differ as much as Panama and Costa Rica.

For many years both countries top the lists of ‘best retirement destinations‘ and are home to large expat communities, primarily from the US and Canada. To compare the two is almost impossible. It all comes down to personal preferences. It all depends on who you are, what type of lifestyle you’re looking for, your economy, how much heat (literally) is too much and even your age.

But if I were to attempt generalization, I’d say Panama may appeal more to the younger generation while Costa Rica to somewhat older not only in age but also in experience (been there, done that).

The Vibe and The People

Panama: The ‘talk of the town’ is that Panama City is becoming a new Miami, and the city loves that talk. Panama is all about business and making money… at the same time, Panama is also about partying and reggaeton (latino reggae). When the music plays the Panamanian dance. Period. If you don’t you must be sick for there is no other excuse.

The predominant ethnic group is Mestizos, European ancestors are in a minority. The economy is stable, plenty of jobs attracting the less privileged from neighboring countries (Colombians, El Salvadorians, Mexicans). Old, run-down neighborhoods (like Casco Viejo) are being refurbished to attract young and hype hipsters with deep pockets. High tempo. Work hard and play hard.

Work, nightlife, party, dance, reggaeton. Latino way. All the way.

Costa Rica: Small town vibe in a democratic setting. Costa Rica is all about Pura Vida (pure life). Lower tempo and chill. Nature, environment, and bio-culture. The greenest country in the world where almost all electricity is generated from green sources. Costa Rica is also the happiest country in the world – according to National Geographic 2017. Well educated, mostly from European ancestry population. No Latino blood vibe as far as I could see but polite and softly spoken locals hiding their temperament and emotions well.  Salsa and romantic Western tunes are their favorite music. And… surprise… surprise, most drivers follow traffic rules. Did you know Costa Rica is lacking its own army?

Maximize joy, minimize stress and live the life to its fullest. Pura Vida.

Public infrastructure and wellbeing

Panama: Filthy and noisy. Rubbish everywhere. Plenty of stray cats. Sidewalks are either missing or are full of potholes, even in front of 5-star hotels.

Not once did I dare to purchase anything from street vendors. Meat and vegetables in local supermarkets look disgusting. For better quality of goods, you need to shop in Western supermarkets. Food, like anything else, is very expensive, more expensive than in Western countries which is quite shocking for the visitors as they do not expect to find developing country to be more expensive than their own. Expats often fly to Miami to shop, especially electronics, as it is more economical than shopping locally even though they need to buy an airline ticket.

Panama is doing its best to drop the third world country label, but as long as they do not clean up their act I cannot see that happening anytime soon. For me, Panama is a presumptive first world country in a third world country infrastructure.

Costa Rica: Nice and clean. No rubbish anywhere.

Fresh, tastefully presented and packaged goods (meat, veg, and fruit) sold in the clean and welcoming hole-in-the-wall family-run corner shops. Supermarkets, even the local ones, are of a good standard. Many biological shops. Was never restrained from purchasing anything due to contamination or poor hygiene scare. Food is more expensive than in Panama but if you shop locally and at farmers markets, you will manage just fine. Great quality, great taste, and much better prices than in supermarkets.

Costa Rica is the most expensive Central American country. With a bit of planning you can still make it on a budget should you choose to do so. (Retirement on a budget)

The Weather

Panama: Tropical – all year around.  Approx 30C. Could be very nice and pleasant but it isn’t due to high humidity. If you add the factor it feels more like 40C or even higher and very muggy. Doesn’t get much better at night. Temperature drops few degrees but not humidity. Hardly any breeze. Rains a lot. When it doesn’t rain it pours. Best places to settle down are by the sea or on higher latitudes where you get more breeze and less humidity. An air con is a must, also at night.

On a positive (and negative) note, even though Panama City is a coastal town there are no beaches in the city – well, there are two (or three?) teeny tiny ones in the Casco but unusable. Neither are there any nice beaches in the proximity of the city. The closest one, Coronado, popular with weekend visitors and expats, is only (?) a two-hour drive away.

Costa Rica: Also tropical. Officially. In reality – total shock – COLD during the winter months. I was not prepared for that. San Jose and other towns in the Central Valley are in various microclimates zones due to surrounding mountains … and I hate them all. Hard, stormy, freezing cold winds go right through you. No need for air con, you will not find any either. Instead, you’d need a warm sweater and socks, so don’t forget to bring them. It can get warm on a sunny and windless day, the nights, however, are always chilly and you’d need a warm blanket/duvet to survive. You may even need two blankets if you live in a house with natural air con.

On a positive note, it only takes an hour drive to warm up as it is all it takes to get to on one of the Costa Rican’s lovely beaches where the temperatures (and humidity) are higher. The Caribbean coast is warmer than the Pacific one, not by much. Summer months are warmer but rainier.

Money Issues

Panama: Panama has (so conveniently) employed USD as an accepted alternative to native Balboa. All prices are in USD. You get paid in USD and you pay in USD. And you also get the change in USD – for the most part.

Occasionally you may get few Balboa coins, however, the exchange rate of Panamanian official currency Balboa is tied to US dollar (1 ISD = 1 Balboa).

In ATMs you withdraw USD. Each withdrawal will cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Costa Rica: In Costa Rica, the official currency is Costa Rican Colón but USD is widely accepted. Most supermarkets, malls, restaurants, and taxis accept USD, however, you get the change in local currency at the exchange rate that is lower than in banks. Hotels and tour operators quote USD but you can pay in either currency.

Coins are huge, heavy and not worth very much. You need a big bag and/or deep pocket to carry them.

In ATMs you withdraw Colons or USD. Each withdrawal will also cost you 5.25. USD in service/transaction fees if you use a foreign card.

Summa Summarum

So, where do the expats, the retirees fit into that equation?

If you’re a young(ish) entrepreneur with the not too bad economy you may want to give Casco in Panama City a try. But once you retire (or even earlier) you’d be looking for a place on the beach, maybe Coronado or David. You may also want to live in a cooler place in the highlands e.g. Boquete. Or …

You will follow many other expats’ footsteps and move to Costa Rica where most of the retirees end up eventually.

In Costa Rica, the expats/retirees live about everywhere, in the mountains, on the beach and even in the Central Valley. For most, the Pura Vida way of living is simply irresistible.

The post Same, same but different, Panama vs Costa Rica appeared first on One way ticket to Paradise.

Living abroad or traveling the world can be (and always is) not only educational but also a life-changing experience. The more we open our mind, and other senses, the more open we will be to accepting new things or different cultures. The more accepting we are the less likely we will experience the culture shock while visiting unfamiliar environment but will instinctively accept the things around us and the world at large just the way they are. Our home country seizes being a norm and measuring stick in favor of the world. We have become global citizens.

The more we travel the better idea we will have what to expect at most destinations. The more we know what to expect the less likely our destination will shock us, disappoint us and… impress us. Yes, it goes both ways. The ups and the downs. 

Having visited 80+ countries I have pretty good idea what to expect in different parts of the world. I don’t necessarily like everything but I accept it nonetheless, and cannot even remember the last time I was shocked, disappointed or… impressed… until now.

I am impressed. Seriously impressed. Never expected Costa Rica would blow my mind (or rather taste) away.

Do you know pineapples are not sour but sweet (ish)? Do you remember what fresh chicken or tomatoes taste like? I forgot a long time ago. Not only did I forget what food tastes and looks like but also how good it is. My pallet is going through the Renaissance. My pallet is in heaven. Thanks to Costa Rica, Costa Rican farmers and locally produced and sold food.

Not in American/European-type super modern supermarkets selling tasteless and overpriced vacuum-packed products but at local street markets and hole-in-the-wall shops offering fresh, clean, appetizing and deliciously looking products nicely presented and packed screaming at me ‘buy me’, ‘taste me’, ‘eat me’.

And I taste, and I eat and I love it. Pura Vida.

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“Ladies and gentlemen, we have started our descent … the temperature at the destination is 21 C and it’s raining“. Qué? 21? Didn’t he mean to say 31?

Boarding COPA aircraft in Panama City during storm with lightning, thunder, and the worst downpour

I landed in San Jose, Costa Rica. Such a short distance away from Panama City yet the temperature dropped by 10-15 C. What a surprise. (Apparently) that sudden temperature drop is due to real mountains in the country (3,820 meters, 12,533 ft). At night the temperature drops down to 16 C. Winter. So glad I didn’t toss my ‘winter clothes’ away, the whole five kilos of them, which I have been dreaming of doing every single day.

Humidity is bad but not as bad as in Panama. In fact, I spend my first night and day without AC wearing long pants with a long-sleeved shirt and loved it.

Winter, or rather a rainy season, in Costa Rica is definitely no beach season, especially not on the Pacific side of the country where water can be quite chilly. Like Panama, Costa Rica is also blessed with two oceans, colder Pacific for surfers and warmer Caribbean for beach bums like myself. 

Visiting Costa Rica was in my plans, but not just yet. The sudden itinerary change was simply an impulse act. Got tired of looking for something that doesn’t seem to exist – a reasonably priced place on the Panamanian beach. So, I left – for the most expensive Central American country. Go figure. (It can only get better from here? Back to Panama? Eventually, for I am still on my way to Panama.

Tocumen International Airport Panama City, Panama

NOTE: You need to have an onward ticket when entering Costa Rica. Immigration may not ask for it but then they may. They didn’t ask me. Instead, I was asked to show my onward ticket by checking staff at the Panama City Airport. I flew with COPA.

TIP: There is a lot of conflicting information regarding transport from San Jose airport. This is how it works (or at least worked yesterday)

Upon entering arrival hall you’ll be approached by numerous drivers offering various transportation deals. Just ignore them and leave the airport.

There is no organized taxi cue, so if you don’t have a hotel pick up you need to arrange the transport yourself.

1. Shuttle: Yes, there is one. Once you leave the airport turn right. At the end of the road (maybe 50 m), you’ll find minibusses that go into town and stop at major attractions on the way. The ticket costs 12 USD.

2. Uber: Yes, it does come to the airport. Call for the service once you’re out as drivers won’t be waiting for you but will cancel the trip instead.

3. Taxi: Once you leave the airport go left and then deal with orange taxi drivers parked there. There are also red taxis that are supposed to be ok but the orange ones are recommended. Taxis have meters, so you can either let the meter run or make a deal. Regular price downtown San Jose is 30 USD. However, if you come during rush hour (5 p.m. – 7 p.m.) perhaps making a deal is a better option. It can take up to 2 hours to get into town … while the meter is ticking and ticking and ticking. ‘My” meter has ticked away to 45 USD, yet I wasn’t even going all the way downtown but to Escazu a few kilometers before the city center. Luckily I was sharing a taxi so it worked out at the end. Alternatively, have a (free) cup of coffee or even a dinner at the airport for the money/time you’ll waste/save sitting in the traffic.

Why Escazú and not downtown San Jose? Security. Escazú is one of the best and safest residential areas only 10-15 minutes from downtown San Jose. I figured I better check out the city from a distance of my secure accommodation before I (eventually) make a move. For now, I plan to take a bus downtown and explore it during day hours, so .. stay tuned.

Garden of my Airbnb in Escazú

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