Almost there – Bantayan

Bantayan island in the Philippines, August 2016

The longer you live the beach lifestyle during your travels, especially in the tropics, the less ‘stuff’ in general and clothes, in particular, you will need. Eventually, once you’ve figured out what works best for you, you’ll end up wearing the same couple of outfits day in and day out. Hence, all those fancy dresses you brought with you just in case will lose their former glam becoming merely extra kilos, or in other words, ball & chain on your foot not only restraining your physical movements but also suffocating spontaneity, curiosity, and creative impulses.  Before long you will lose control and plan every move around your luggage.  The life will begin to feel miserable and the trip of your life not as fun as you once imagined it to be. Eventually, you must ask yourself a question ‘What on earth am I doing?“

Well, glad you asked, glad you’ve come to your senses – it is now (long overdue) time to find a friendly place where you can dump your stuff and enjoy the real freedom of traveling and the thrill of exploring the world. On your own terms.

I found a ‘friendly hotel’, dropped my luggage, and off I went without even giving it a second thought.

Free at last. Packed my camera, laptop, and few other necessities. Only a bag on my back – free hands. Would you believe I could still go lighter?  Much lighter. For whatever ‘necessities’ I put in my backpack wasn’t all that necessary. In fact, as much as 80% of the stuff I packed I didn’t even unpack let alone wore. If not for my camera gear and a laptop I could easily fit all I really needed in a small handbag. What a classy way to travel.

My friendly hotel was strategically located near Cebu International airport on Mactan island to where I sought ‘refuge’ after Palawan mishaps (see my previous post). The staff swore on Buddha and many other gods that Bantayan island is the place where I may find my paradise so this is where I went. 

It took a better part of the day to reach the island; first one-hour taxi ride to the North bus station on Cebu island, then a four-hour bus ride to the ferry terminal and then a two-hour ferry ride. The buses leave every half hour. For (luggage) convenience take a RoRo (roll on roll off) bus as it goes on the ferry (you can leave your luggage on the bus durig ferry ride) and then drops you off in Santa Fe village, which will most certainly be your final destination, only a two-three minute ride from the ferry terminal. You can easily walk should you like to do so. 

Note: the bus’s final destination is the island’s capital town – also called Bantayan. Most of the resorts pick their guests up from ferry terminal. If yours does not, continue with the bus to the Santa Fe village or take a tuk-tuk to your destination. I had a bus drop me off in the village and then walked 200-300 meters to my resort.  It was the first time ever I reached a hotel on foot.  How liberating. 

The first thing I noticed once I got off the bus was this sign (snus – Swedish chewing tobacco). Hmm? Really? I was so surprised to see it that it took me a while to understand what it was that I was actually seeing.

Next to it was another sign advertising typical Swedish dishes. A huge Swedish flag welcomed me at my resort. WOW. How nice. What is it all about? 

What is it all about? Well, (as I found out later) the island is popular with expats. The Swedes were the first ones to ‘occupy’ Bantayan some 20 years ago. Other nationalities, Americans, Canadians, Australians, Germans and others, followed.  Most of those guys (they are almost only guys) left their home countries, exes, grown-up children, grandchildren and maybe a cloudy prospect of a boring retirement home for a brand new life.  They came to Bantayan not to retire but to start afresh – a new life on the paradise island with new families, new local wives, a new set of newborns … and new businesses contributing to the local economy, creating job opportunities and even educating employees about Western customer service.  Yes, for many settling down and killing time wasn’t just enough. Own little business, perhaps a restaurant or a bar, added that little extra meaning that would otherwise be amiss – and not only from the social point of view. After all, There Is No Taste Like Home. Right? 

After months of eating noodles, street food and bad Filipino food (sweet, fatty and bony  – not a fan, sorry) I found myself … who would even imagine … in a culinary paradise. Tables, grown-up size chairs, table clothes, forks, knives, mashed potatoes and the best Western dishes one can only wish for prepared by very ambitious, proud of their heritage and only the-best-is-good-enough chefs. The best Wiener schnitzel I have ever had was not in Germany or in Austria (or cooked by my mother) but on Bantayan island in the Philippines.   Go and figure.

As tiny as the Sana Fe village is there is no shortage of bars/pubs and even ‘nightclubs’ where Westerners and locals socialize. The bars are ‘safety heaven’ of a sort for expats where they can take a break from the everyday island life, meet few kindred souls and exchange stories about the ‘good old days’.  Nobody likes to go back but they all cherish the memories. People come here to stay. Most of them. This bar, Stumble Inn, opened during my visit by a lovely Australian couple that left Bali for Bantayan. Something to think about? 😉 

Bantayan has plenty to offer in terms of culinary experience, social life and in fact everyday life but how about the paradise aspect of the island? What about white sandy beaches, crystal clear water, breathtaking scenery and all that stuff that turns a regular island into paradise?

Bantayan island is as close to my idea of ‘my home’ or ‘my island’ or even ‘my paradise’ as it can get. Maybe not 100%, but then nothing ever is. Lovely sandy beaches, clean water, very relaxing for body, soul, and mind. You can stroll the beaches barefoot at sunrise or sunset without a worry in the world. Thanks to the expatriates the beaches are maintained nice and clean. Any ‘greenery’ the tide may bring in is cleared up and buried in the sand as soon as it arrives. Ideal for beach lovers and even better for the ecosystem.

I lived right on the beach, in a sunset room, bit basic but it didn’t matter. Falling asleep listening to the waves or watching the sunrise while sipping on coffee was the ultimate reward for any inconvenience. But, if I were to stay longer I’d probably move into a bungalow resort next door.

I visited the island during the low season, yet was not in a hurry to leave.  Truth be told, I didn’t want to leave at all.  And I wouldn’t have if not for my visa. It was about to expire and I needed to go to Cebu or Mactan to extend i. I was seriously thinking of coming back and even envisioned few business opportunities I could start to keep myself occupied and happy. Well … it didn’t happen …  I didn’t come back. My nomadic blood and (once I dropped ball & chain off my foot) my newly gained freedom took me to other places.

Tip: visa valid for one month is issued on arrival which can be later renewed one month at the time. If you like to stay longer you’d be better off getting a visa for 6 months via Filipino Embassy in your home country. Much cheaper too.

If Bantayan was ‘all that’ during low season I can only imagine what a paradise it must be during high season. It, btw, starts in October – should you like to give it a shot.

Bantayan in pictures