April 2016 in Bagan, Myanmar
Note people sitting in the middle. Locals were picked up along the road and offered a seat on a small plastic stool.
Getting a ticket on the first bus out of Mandalay proved to be much easier than getting the last ticket out of Naypyidaw. The first bus to leave was destined for Bagan so this is where I went.
To enter the town all foreign tourists need to pay 25 USD entrance fee/tourist tax which allows a 5 day stay. After 5 days a new permit is required. The permit must be carried at all times as the tourist police may request to check it… which they occasionally do … strategically placed by entrances to popular sites.
Temple undergoing restoration
Most visitors to Myanmar also visit Bagan, an ancient city, former capital founded in the second century AD known today for its temples, pagodas, monasteries, stupas, palaces and more temples, pagodas… you name them. Bagan has them all … in abundance. 2229 to be exact. The impressive figure in its own right yet it is only less than 1/3 of what it used to be. There were over 10.000 of them but due to earthquake activities in the area many got damaged or destroyed altogether. Some are being restored today with the money brought in by tourists.
My home away from home, Arthawka Hotel in New Bagan
Bagan, once sleepy, half-deserted village, is today a major attraction not only for foreign tourists but also for locals. Following the ‘money trail,’ many locals moved into town hoping to find jobs in the newly established tourist industry. They came in such numbers that a new town had to be built to house them all. To differentiate the two the original Bagan is called today Old Bagan while the new one is called New Bagan.
Bagan is not walkable (I tried) hence the best way, and btw the only way, to explore the town is by e-bike or bicycle. Tourists may not rent anything else. All hotels rent e-bikes for approx 5 USD a day.
Shwesandaw Pagoda. Perfect spot to shoot balloons from. NOTE: you need to climb all those stairs barefoot.
The best way, however, to understand and appreciate the magnitude of Bagan is by getting an aerial view of the site from a hot air balloon. There are hundreds upon hundreds of them lifting early morning during sunrise and late afternoon during sunset. This unforgettable memory comes with a price tag of 400+ USD for a 45-minute ride. (Many compare Bagan to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Having been to both places I cannot say I agree with this statement unless we are talking about the magnitude of both sites.)
To tell the truth, I did not come to Bagan to shoot temples from a hot air balloon but to shoot balloons from the top of the temples. Unfortunately, I missed this photo opportunity, by the smallest possible margin. I arrived in mid-April just when the low season had begun. All balloon operators shut down for the season couple of days earlier and won’t open until mid-October. What a bummer. Had I only known I would have arrived earlier. Didn’t do my homework. (Note to myself: RTFM nest time)
My paradise in Bagan
Irrawaddy river, the same river that runs through Mandalay, runs also through Bagan. Same river two different worlds. Irrawaddy’s banks in Bagan, or rather lack of man-made banks, create tranquil, serene environment with lovely sandy beaches… and amazing sunsets. The whole scenery resembles seashore landscape. Pure magic.
Getting off the beaten path which I always do, brought me to the most amazing tiny port and coffee shop in the old town of Old Bagan where people still live as they always lived. In the evening the villagers come down to the river to do their laundry, wash or just hang out. I could sit there forever and just watch, contemplate, reflect, cleanse and recharge.
There is something special about Bagan itself, and the temples play only a lesser part in the big picture. The feel and geography of the place together with desert-like look, heat, sand, and wind not only add to the mystery but (on a more personal note) also kept bringing back memories from my childhood summer vacations. Not sure what exactly those memories were but they were comforting and felt good. The clock turned back and stopped.
I wouldn’t have minded staying longer in Bagan but my visa was expiring in a few days and there was still one place I wanted to visit in Myanmar – Inle Lake. The best for last, although I didn’t know it then.
The river
Bagan Life
Temples, pagodas, monasteries, stupas, palaces of Bagan
